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Bazeng Update - VR4 +T51R SPL. - start up and idle video with new cams.
- Thread starterbazeng
- Start date
Cars amazing man Congrats!
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Thats definitely pretty impressive. I like the clean look it has going for it.
Check the two guys in the background of that last pic.......there conspiring to flattin your tires so you'll quit pulling better dyno numbers than his skyline. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Check the two guys in the background of that last pic.......there conspiring to flattin your tires so you'll quit pulling better dyno numbers than his skyline. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
bazeng
Well-known member
I know, those 2 in the back do look a bit dodgey
They were probably thinking, what is this POS doing on the dyno?
Here are the results:
click
Photos of the night:
click
Hightlight video!
click
I didn't want the bonnet popped just to confuse the guys. They thought that it was a MAGNA
click
Anyway, thanks for the kind comments guys.
They were probably thinking, what is this POS doing on the dyno?
Here are the results:
click
Photos of the night:
click
Hightlight video!
click
I didn't want the bonnet popped just to confuse the guys. They thought that it was a MAGNA
click
Anyway, thanks for the kind comments guys.
bazeng
Well-known member
Run in done guys.
I've installed the ENG OIL cooler (EARLS) with the MOCAL OIL STAT and power steering cooler.
Everything worked out well!
I also installed the new catch can.
I also decided to swap out the standard modified fuel rail with a billet item simply because of the tiny pin hole fuel leak that i had. Due to the poor casting, welding the fitting was rather difficult (kept blowing due to impurities). Some custom mounts and the rail bolted on without any issues. The rail is from POWERFLOW injection Australia. I wanted the AEM one but I couldn't be bothered waiting for it.
But wait theres MORE!!.... I changed the uni's on the tail shaft (you guys call them drive shaft) and also changed over to the revised yoke. I was sick of the leaky xfer case leak even after the VFAQ seal trick. Hopefully this fixes it!!
Plus the dust seal on the yoke was loose and was making an awful rattle on decel. This will get rid of most of the decel noise... hopefully!
Enjoy the pics..
Next - full tune and race time!
I've installed the ENG OIL cooler (EARLS) with the MOCAL OIL STAT and power steering cooler.
Everything worked out well!
I also installed the new catch can.
I also decided to swap out the standard modified fuel rail with a billet item simply because of the tiny pin hole fuel leak that i had. Due to the poor casting, welding the fitting was rather difficult (kept blowing due to impurities). Some custom mounts and the rail bolted on without any issues. The rail is from POWERFLOW injection Australia. I wanted the AEM one but I couldn't be bothered waiting for it.
But wait theres MORE!!.... I changed the uni's on the tail shaft (you guys call them drive shaft) and also changed over to the revised yoke. I was sick of the leaky xfer case leak even after the VFAQ seal trick. Hopefully this fixes it!!
Plus the dust seal on the yoke was loose and was making an awful rattle on decel. This will get rid of most of the decel noise... hopefully!
Enjoy the pics..
Next - full tune and race time!
Beautiful work! With that front lip that will complete the look. Love that IC core and all the thought that went into everything.
bazeng
Well-known member
Ok, I was planning to race it tonight but the gearbox has broken on the Dyno.
It was loading up in 4th gear and it seems to have taken the teeth off 4th. It only did it at low rpm also.
It was loading up in 4th gear and it seems to have taken the teeth off 4th. It only did it at low rpm also.
bazeng
Well-known member
What do you guys think I should do about this?
Whats the go in the states for this issue?
I was looking at TRE boxes which are decent value. I'm not sure if a standard type box will hold the power (long term).
Maybe I should bite the bullet and get a PPG box.
I should be able to salvage the centre dif and front lsd.
What about the AUTO option?
Recommendations guys?
Whats the go in the states for this issue?
I was looking at TRE boxes which are decent value. I'm not sure if a standard type box will hold the power (long term).
Maybe I should bite the bullet and get a PPG box.
I should be able to salvage the centre dif and front lsd.
What about the AUTO option?
Recommendations guys?
If you are going all out drag then auto would be fine but for a street car (which this is a crazy street car) I would totally keep the manual in it. Shepherd trans works great and I'm sure with the all out build that you are doing you'll need all the strength you can get.
JSchleim18
Well-known member
TRE Stage 3 trans rebuild looks slick. Evo 3 1st-4th gearsets. It would be reliable and a very nice street trans if you want the manual. Auto would be great for the street IMO. not too much shifting, should be quicker than the stick as far as shifting, turbo not having to recover too much between shifts, etc.
turbowop
Well-known member
Whatever you do, if you stay with a manual trans, go with full Evo3 guts. Shep, English, Jack's, or TRE could all build you a trans that will hold mAd powaH.
bazeng
Well-known member
Does anybody know what they do to get these boxes to hold so much power?
Whats stopping a stock evo3 box doing it?
Whats stopping a stock evo3 box doing it?
turbowop
Well-known member
I forget sometimes that you're down in Australia, where they actually have Evo3's. As long as the final ratio in the rear end is the same, I don't see why you couldn't use a whole box. We just use the internals here in the U.S. since we don't really have a surplus of Evo3's to pull transmissions from.
There are tricks of the trade as far as shimming goes to get better shifting, but as far as I know, nothing other than standard parts hold all the power. It just happens that the Evo3 stuff is the strongest for our boxes. I'm guessing you could go the route of having everything cryo'd and shotpeen'd, but stock Evo3 gears with fresh bearings and good fluid seem to do pretty well.
There are tricks of the trade as far as shimming goes to get better shifting, but as far as I know, nothing other than standard parts hold all the power. It just happens that the Evo3 stuff is the strongest for our boxes. I'm guessing you could go the route of having everything cryo'd and shotpeen'd, but stock Evo3 gears with fresh bearings and good fluid seem to do pretty well.
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brisvr4
Well-known member
Actually we didn't get Evo 3's down here. They are about as common here as Kangaroos in the main street of Sydney /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Barry, if you for the Evo conversion you will need the centre diff as well as the gears don't mesh between the 2 different boxes.
Barry, if you for the Evo conversion you will need the centre diff as well as the gears don't mesh between the 2 different boxes.
I know Shep trans goes through everything in side the gear box. they double synchro just about everything with new forks and gears too. you litteraly get a brand new gearbox. shep trans is about an hour away from here, I know a few Monster DSM's that use either their dog box or stage 2 or 3 gear boxes. i haven't heard of any of these things breaking, it's usually somethng else thats weaker down the drive train, ie. u-joints, rearends, axles etc.
the only problem is your distance to them is quite great
the only problem is your distance to them is quite great
onesickcrx
Well-known member
I don't know what kinda power you make but Shep told me 500lbs of TQ is the limit of the evo 3 gears and 4 spider diff. Anything more you need to first go to a Welded up center diff and think about going to a full dog box
I kinda went with the mentality that if I hit 500lbs of TQ its time too turn down the street car plus I like turning to much to get rid of my 4 spider diff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
I kinda went with the mentality that if I hit 500lbs of TQ its time too turn down the street car plus I like turning to much to get rid of my 4 spider diff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting brisvr4:
Actually we didn't get Evo 3's down here. They are about as common here as Kangaroos in the main street of Sydney /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Hmph, I could have sworn I'd seen posts from Aussie members that showed decent Evo3 availability down there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif My bad.
Actually we didn't get Evo 3's down here. They are about as common here as Kangaroos in the main street of Sydney /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Hmph, I could have sworn I'd seen posts from Aussie members that showed decent Evo3 availability down there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif My bad.
4thStroke
Well-known member
When 3rd let go on me, it took out the center diff as well (along with a bunch of other stuff), so don't rule that possibility out.
I believe Jack (Jack's Transmissions) is getting in a set of custom 3/4 gearsets. I don't know about the availability yet, but you may want to send him an email and see what he says.
There is only so much we can do with the size and strength of OEM gears, treating the gears help some, but at the end of the day it still won't hold the power we want them to on a regular basis.
I believe Jack (Jack's Transmissions) is getting in a set of custom 3/4 gearsets. I don't know about the availability yet, but you may want to send him an email and see what he says.
There is only so much we can do with the size and strength of OEM gears, treating the gears help some, but at the end of the day it still won't hold the power we want them to on a regular basis.
