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Bazeng Update - VR4 +T51R SPL. - start up and idle video with new cams.

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hey guys
Just thought I'd share my progress with the VR4.
Its been good and bad, lots of money and time spent on the car.
Currently 3 years in the build, trying to do as much as possible myself its finally near completion. Over the 3 years I've had it running in N/A (run in motor), in that form it made around 120kw's (160hp) at the front wheels.

After bolting on the manifold / turbo it made 300kw's (400hp) at the front wheels. The fuel system was not holding up, it was leaning out up top and also had some spark issues. The main problem with the turbonetics t3 manifold was the boost creep issue. It would start at 14psi bar and rise to 28psi (3000rpm - 7000rpm).. no way to fix it at all...
I drove it around in this stage for about 2 weeks before pulling it down again.
An attempt down the 1/4 led to HEAPS of wheels spin and 2 broken driveshafts..

Deciding that the suspension needed work, i purchased a set of HOTBITS race coilovers and went for a new manifold. The manifold is a custom piece and has been ceramic coated. The turbo also has been ceramic coated.

The inlet manifold is off to get extrude honed and the t/b bored out from 64mm to 68mm.

The old fuel system consisted of -6 braided lines, walbro 255 and 780cc PTE injectors
the new fuel system no consists of -8 braided / tube lines, bosch -044 and sard 800cc injectors.

Anyways, here are some pictures.
feedback welcome!



Old turbo setup

New turbo setup

Collector of new manifold






Davies Craig electric water pump

Revised fuel system




Sparco Race seats



Hotbits Race coil overs with NOLTEC camber tops



Custom radiator

Alternator relocation

Stock brakes (twin pots) VS Big brakes (made only possible with some guys on this board)



Thanks for looking guys
 
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Looks awesome.

Bazeng, I would like to know how that water pump works out in the end. If it causes battery drain, if it works as intended, and overall impressions ect. I have been thinking about using an electric pump for some time now for various reasons.

I tried to find some info about the pump and ran across this...

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0569

Maybe I am reading into things, but something seems a bit afoul. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

I ran across this tid bit from another forum. I know that Davies just released a newer version of the pump, so this might not apply.

"I've ran a Davis Craig electric pump and speed controller since putting the car on the road 13,000 miles ago. No mechanical pump at all. No mechanical thermostat.
The voltage suplied to the pump varies based on coolant temperature as read by a thermister installed where the thermostat used to be.

BEWARE of the warm-up curve the Davis Craig controller supplies. It pulses the pump on and off as the engine warms up....off a lot longer than on.
The "curve" it supplies is probably okay for a front engined car, but in a mid engined car, at least mine, the distance from the engine to the radiator causes the radiator to be temperature shocked causing the tubes to crack from the tank. Ron Davis commented that the aluminum radiator can not stand the rapid differential temperature.
I had 2 radiators crack before discovering what what was going on.
The short term fix is to not let the pump cycle on and off during warm up. I keep a constant 3 volts on the pump at all times and let the DC controller ramp it up from there as needed by cooling demand. Warm up times are increased, but I haven't cracked a radiator since allowing it to warm up along with the engine. I am currently working on an upgraded program for the DC controller to better suit my car. Davies Craig did not respond to emails asking for a microcontroller program change for mid engine cars.

Bob Putnam from ERA has had a DC pump running in a car for a good while with no problems. I'm not sure what is different in their setup from mine.

I did have a pump lock up one time while idling in front of the house. Clearances in the pump are close and if allowed to get too hot, it seems like the pump impeller wants to weld itself to the pump housing. I understand DC is making design changes in the area of the seal. This doesn't address the pump impeller problem I had. I've heard of one other person in addition to me that had an impeller lock up
I've had no seal problems.

Plumbing for the Cleveland in the ERA chassis would have been difficult if not impossible using a mechanical pump. The electric pump fit well and works well taking into account the warm up/controller issues and the impeller welding issue.
I believe in the electric pump and feel it can do as well or better than a mechanical pump. It can speed up to max rpm regardless of engine rpm, a benefit going through town in a high gear at low speed.

The controller uses a Microchip PIC controller doing PWM voltage control. It switches the neutral that attaches to the pump NOT the positive voltage.

I believe Davies Craig had cars running their pumps at Le Mans last year. Dual pumps on the car."
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
LunarShadow

about the pump, yes a certain batch did seize as did mine.. they promptly exchanged the unit as well as the controller without and questions.

It works very well!
Warm up is quick, like stated, it pulses on / off / on / off until the water gets up to temp, it then regulates voltage based on the temp you set it at.

You can allow it to run after powering down also eliminating heatsoak in the motor which is another advantage, but you will have to either shut the motor down and turn on the ignition to allow the water pump to stay on..

Wiring is simple and no need for a pulley / belt
Its quite a good product.

The testing period is over, so at this moment I'd say its safe to use reliably.
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
the guy who made it is a local guy here in AUS, known by the name of 6boost.

Rob Barac's EVO lancer which runs deep into the 9's uses the same manifold.
supposably he gained around 30hp from a manifold switch!!

not cheap though.
$1200.00 AUD....

lifetime warranty though
I had to do alot of mods to the front engine mount to fit the turbo setup due to the EVO's having their mount on the gearbox and not the block like the VR4...

hopefully the mount will hold up!


heres the old dyno, leaning out up top, boost creep

 
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bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
got the ignition coils mounted today
also completed the exhaust on the weekend..
the hard work is paying off!

gave the car a wash even though its not moving and took a few pics..

cant wait to drive this thing again..

thanks for looking





 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Here is a sneak peak of the new engine.
The previous one was poorly built.

My goal is to get it done by the end of the year...

RB26 VS 4G63


Girdle installed


Moroso Sump


Timing cover installed with crank pulley


Engine almost ready to install


Engine in engine bay




My wiring of the Autronic SM4 and M&Wpro 14 CDI. everything in the car has its own relay.


Cusom Subframe bushing + stich welded & powdercoated subframe


Brand Spanking new DYNO DYNAMICS DYNO (DIGITAL, the latest technology) @ Springy Motors



I've been working on the thing after work daily.
I'm just trying to sort out the drivetrain atm.
Sending some stuff away to get modified / heat treated etc.

Hopefully nothing will break.
 

a2vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2005
Messages
1,549
Location
Ann Arbor MI
/ubbthreads/images//graemlins/applause.gif looks awesome man! that dp/waste pipe set up is dope!
~Brian
 
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curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
/ubbthreads/images//graemlins/bawling.gif Its awesome

/ubbthreads/images//graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/applause.gif
 

Wow that engine bay looks immaculate! Im sure you are very proud, I know I would be.
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Just an update guys!

Finally running nicely.
It made about 450hp at all wheels on the run in tune.

Fixed all the little oil leaks etc. So far so good!

Here are some pictures:










5 years + of work has paid off.
 

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif You did what I want to do.. How much money do you think that has cost you since you started? I'm just curious as to how much it will end up costing me 5 years down the road.. Do you have pictures of the finished engine bay?
 
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