You should have posted this in newbs, just saying.Dif noise left turn only is unlikley, jackshaft brg left turn only is also unlikley. these brgs turn all the time & would not change in load on a left turn. more likly a wheel brg or a backing plate to near the rotor.

Quoting galantrevolution: Does anybody have a picture of their car with the springs with out cutting them ?I no longer have any before pics but this is with 1.5 coils cut out of rear.

H&R are the only direct fit option I am aware of. they will leave it sitting fairly high in the rear. most of us who have installed them have cut some of the dead coils to give the rear the appropriate drop.

What solved the problem? That others may know in the future.

You need to properly check your charging system. sounds like you're just running off the batt till it's out of juice. I'd start there.

That I can live with. Just no balls dangling in the back. I wanna castrate every car/truck I see with those.

I'm in for a set.

I'll check I may still have my old rack. if so you're welcome to it.

Sorry to say the finding of more damage awaits you. while running a missing ground will slowly overheat things but during cranking it'll take any route it can & overheat melt any circuit that cant take the load.

^^Use 3m window weld not silicone. it's liquid urethane & works very well. I have the Avids myself but my epic build is far from done so I can't say on rattles.

OK it sounds like the dust seals have fluid building up behind them. the seal that's leaking is the square cut seal inside that you can't see. replacing the ones you see will not fix the problem. you need to pop out the piston & replace both or in other word, rebuild the caliper.

If you look at the "disabling alarm" tech thread I had put a couple o pics in there with where the etacs is mounted in the car but... if your windows are powering up your problem does not lay there. it only provides power to the windows it does not control individual window function.It sounds...

P.m. me if sale falls through.

Hit me up on pm I have a good extra four bolt w/axles & cups, one inner boot is torn. happened while removing it under less than Ideal circumstances. I'm down in sd a lot, could drop it off to you.

Do they have a us distributor? Side note I may have an unused harness bar available soon

Because you now have an open vent that could leak fuel a check valve/roll over valve is a good safety call.

If it's in his name just go with them to the dmv & have the title transferred on the spot.

I would also take a close look at your plug wires, A richer mixture (IE; Cold motor) will be easier for the ignition to fire & then a miss develops as you go into closed loop. Just a thought.

The problem I see with the set up he linked. He says he has crankcase vac under full boost. Both pcv valves will be closed so the only source of vacuum at that point will be a restrictive intake verses the amount of air his turbo's trying to pull. meaning all blow by is being sucked into the...

A catch can on either the vent or the pcv will not cause any issue. I am running one on both. check valves wil either never open or clog enough not to seal rather quickly. Adding cleaning the pcv valves to your oil change regimin will help greatly. Do not do what they did there!!! You will load...

dsm rear trailing arms are identical to ours, they even have provisions for the tie rod ends, subframe lacks mounting points for rack & pump but the trailing arms have the same potential for movement. It's called "Passive toe" ours has active toe they have misnamed 4WS.The car won't act wonky...

our ecus have every little adaptive learning. Just disco the batt for a few min & you're done. you could remove the cables from the batt short them together & turn the key on for a few min as well but I don't think it's necessary to go that far.

as stated above, rear rack tie rods are removed prior to toe set, Then adjusted so they just drop in & you then must verify toe set did not alter after reinstall of tie rods. it's a pain in the ass.

If had had adjustment bolts added to one or both locations in the front (read; lower strut bolts) swapping axles could well have thrown things out of whack. the stock bolt however, gives no camber adjustment.Rear has an adjustment on the inside of the upper arm. if the car is lowered the...

no worries, I took no offence, just stating fact, I have zero exp with variable vane turbos. For you're spool goals that could be a possibility.As for compression ratio, I liked having the higher ratio, better drivability off boost better mpgs. I have seen 10 to 1 motors with a turbo & even...

No can't say I do but, I do have experience with high compression turbo motors. 9 to 1 & 15 lbs of boost & I was right on the ragged edge of timing issues. when I moved to Cali w/91 from washington's 92 I had to redo my whole setup. which of course led me to rebuild the whole car but I digress...

comp ratio too high for boost levels. full boost by two k is gonna be too small a turbo for upper end hp goals.

Actually my niece just wrecked my truck... I might be needing a new insurance carrier

throw out bearing, clutch over extending & pressure plate fingers hitting disk even Crank walk. first check all bell housing bolts. Have a friend push on the clutch while you watch the bell housing to block gap for movement. a lot of time bolts back out & or where not reinstalled properly.

Eleventy billion

Quoting prove_it: Loose wheel bearings are an exception and rare?Edited for clarity; For them to demonstrate they're going bad only by getting loose while not making any noise.

No, sometimes they just get loose but that would be the rare exception. if you find a loose wheel bearing re-torque & it works loose again the bearing is bad.Bad wheel bearings will also cause excessive brake pedal travel or stacking.

A growling bearing is a different issue & generally won't cause too much damage. That is caused by pitting of the races or the balls themselves. if the bearing is full on failing then you will get massive heat built up in a very concentrated area. this heat makes the inner race over expand &...

not to thread jack....No, I mean the hub. A spindle would include the knuckle on a rear drive with conventional front inner & outer bearings. so while you & yours may use "hub" as different meaning than the norm, industry standard refers to the hub as the portion that the wheel bolts to...

On my ETS kit the j-pipe ends at 2 1/4 & then bumps up another 1/4 inch with the coupler. remainder of piping 2.5inch

no, front. the hub that presses into the bearing. not the knuckle itself.

while rare, I have had to replace hubs. a couple just cause I didn't feel good about them & I don't want a dead or injured customer.when the bearing fails a lot of heat gets dumped to the hub itself, sometimes the race will spin & make the hub not run true anymore. I doubt the shop is too off...

just to put it out there. I had bad driveshaft decell vibration & some noise. When I dropped my driveshaft I found all my u-joints had some amount of binding. this was causing the d/s to flop on decell. was not noticeable under acceleration or steady cruise but decell lit it off. I replaced all...

post up a wanted to buy, someone has done a five lug conversion & has a couple lying around.

That's the dsm pipe, you have to contact them for the Gvr4 pipe but pricing is probably the same.

I have the ETS pipe. Nice piece but does partially use a stepped coupler to flare upSorry no pic till next mock up. that'll be a month or so.

there is an inner & outer seal but only one bearing.

You have a blockage in the system, if you where closer...you might have a condenser issue. Is the second fan in place? New receiver/dryer? lines flushed, no kinks in the hard line that runs over the firewall?

Quoting kooter: I do believe any 1g 6 bolt early 90's turbo engine should be a direct swap. talon, eclipse, laser, and galant vr4. A non turbo block would also work only difference being that it does not have oil squirter's in the cylinder's.try car-parts.comMany NA blocks also lack a...

Hmm those are pretty cool

I was just talking to a coworker about that tiburon, He didn't believe me. Hell, I saw that car & had a hard time believing anyone would do that. I'd bet he spent quite a bit on the project.Give em hell Mark!!! I hear you're supposed to be quite scary use that!!!

I believe they have the provision just not the light. It's the same light that came in the squishy wing however.

OK, it worked that time.

I have never seen a delete but I do have a set of non projector fogs, much lighter & less depth requirement If you think those might work for you let me know. No, I don't have a pic of them, ohh wait I do, on the car.Damn, photo up-loader does not appear to be working.

Porbably not an issue, many cars don't have that and they don't leak just fine.