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A/C expansion valve

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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Montgomery Al
Can the expansion valve be replaced with the dash in place? Is it possible to replce it with the evaporative core in place as well?

I can build motors and tranny's, but I'm sorta a newb at A/C stuff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

quato

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Jan 31, 2012
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230
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San Antonio, TX
You can. Take the glovebox out and that exposes your evap. Undo the two nuts on top and the ones on the bottom. You may or may not be able to get it out without touching the blower. Of course, it will discharge your a/c system...I assume your system is already empty if you are asking this question. Let me know if you have any more questions. I'm currently doing mine and have been through it several times with a custom condenser setup.
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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309
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Montgomery Al
Hey neighbor, I just moved to SATX!

Yeah, it's empty, I'm replacing the AC compressor next week and decided to do the drier as well. Would be nice to put a new Evap valve in as well..

I'm preparing for the brutal Texas summers!

Thanks for the advice!
 

quato

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Jan 31, 2012
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San Antonio, TX
Haha nice! Where abouts in SA? I know there are at least 2-3 other GVR4's around plus there is a really nice 1Ga on Randolph AFB that I lust after almost every day haha.
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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309
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Montgomery Al
Ok, I got lazy!

Replaced compressor, drier and thats it.

Pulled vacuum on system for 30mins and filled her up. Pressures seem within spec.

A/C only blows about 60º on 90º day. Also, A/C temps climb while car is stationary, so I bypassed A/C fan resistor by connecting resistor wires together and now A/C fan runs on high. Unfortunately this didn't help at all.

Like an idiot, I forgot to purge the charge hose during charging/switching cans.

So now, I'm going to do it again <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif" alt="" /> This time I'm going to pull the evaporator out and replace the Expansion valve as well.

Does anyone know if the A/C pressures listed in the service guide are still applicable since we are running R134a now?
 
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Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
Although r134a is designed to operate at higher pressures, the service pressures still apply. This is more a function of the pressure rating of the sytems and design of associated components. Nevermind the fact that the limit switches in the system will keep you within certain high/lo bounds.
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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309
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Montgomery Al
I'm starting to get frustrated and need some help.

I have now replaced the compressor, drier, and expansion valve, cleaned the evaporator, vacummed for over an hour and recharged ensuring I purged air between freon cans. (Hood label claims A/C system uses 33oz - I charged ~5oz Pag and 26-28oz R134a)

Gauges read aprox 30/225

A/C Still only blows about 60º. A/C temps still climb while car is stationary with bypassed A/C fan resistor and fan on high.

Thoughts?
 
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Barnes

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Richland, WA
What's the outside air temp?
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
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Richland, WA
Quick n' easy check:
Make sure your radiator and A/C fans are turning the correct direction. This may sound silly, but it's happened before.

Another check:
When the A/C is running, from inside the engine compartment, find the inlet/outlet to the evaporator. Carefully touch the input line (small) and the output line (large) with your finger. Beware that they may be very hot or cold. Also keep your pressure gauge hooked up so you can note the pressure.

This should help you establish a few things. The small line should be ambient temp, or slight warm. The big line should be much cooler than ambient, or straight up cold.

If the inlet line is HOT, and the outlet is cooler, but not cold, your condenser is not rejecting enough heat. I.e. It's dirty, fans aren't doing something correctly, etc etc.

If the inlet line and the outlet line are the same temp, something is wrong with your expansion valve. Considering your pressure readings, this is unlikely. However, if the inlet and outlet are the same temp, you are probably not getting a pressure drop via the expansion valve. Since your gauges are registering a pressure difference, this would mean you have blockage of some kind between the high side pressure connection, and the evaporator inlet.

If the inlet line is ambient temp or less, and the outlet line is *really* cold, you are not removing enough heat from the cabin. I.E. not enough air is flowing over the evaporator due to a bad blower, air leak, clogging of the exterior, etc.

Another check:
Did you confirm the cold/heat blend door in the large HVAC box after the evaporator is completely blocking off the heater? I would try to visually confirm the lever is moving through its whole range.

If ALL the above stuff seems to check out, I would do this last measure:

You could 100% confirm the heater core is not contributing to temperatures by disconnecting the coolant lines to the core, and looping them.
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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Montgomery Al
Thank Jon,

I'll check on this today, I had visitors this past weekend and didn't have time to look into it.

I can assure you the fans are spinning in the correct direction, and I have double checked the blend door, it seems it is closing properly.

I remember the suction line being very cold to the touch with condensation on it at the compressor and the inlet line fairy hot, but I'll double check.

While driving around yesterday in 82º temps, I was getting 65-70 A/C outlet temps while idling at lights, and around 60º while moving.
 

trexn8

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Sep 2, 2010
Messages
99
Location
Aurora, CO
Despite what the measured refrigerant amount is, I would consider adjusting the refrigerant charge based high pressure readings and a superheat measurement. This is taken by checking your suction line temperature with a pipe clamp or similar devise and your "saturated" low side temperature when converted from psi to temperature. There should be a difference of about 10-20 degrees (depending on who you ask). You are essentially checking the amount of liquid and vapor refrigerant in the evaporator. Being that it is a TXV system this shouldn't be an issue but worth checking. Also make sure the sensing bulb for the TXV is mounted correctly if applicable.

Hope this helps.
 

Vr4junkie

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Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
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Some wack town in CA
Quoting Barnes:


Another check:
Did you confirm the cold/heat blend door in the large HVAC box after the evaporator is completely blocking off the heater? I would try to visually confirm the lever is moving through its whole range.






I had the same problem on my nx door was open about 20% when fully closed ended up just gluing it shut since I don't care about my heater to much.
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
Messages
309
Location
Montgomery Al
Stay tuned...

Gave up and took it to an A/C shop, they diagnosed it as a weak compresor.

Purchased another refurbished compressor and have an appointment on Saturday for full system flush and charge.

Keeping my fingers crossed! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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309
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Montgomery Al
Damn it, car has been in the A/C shop for two days. They can't get the A/C outlet temps lower than 60° either.

Getting very frustrated!
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
You have a blockage in the system, if you where closer...

you might have a condenser issue. Is the second fan in place? New receiver/dryer? lines flushed, no kinks in the hard line that runs over the firewall?
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
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309
Location
Montgomery Al
Yeah, all replaced. Gauge pressures look good.

See above for list of all done..

Wish you were closer too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Barnes

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Richland, WA
Should the air even be able to get below 60 degress with a r-134a swap?
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
Messages
309
Location
Montgomery Al
Good question, from my understanding and reading, yes. Should be around 45-50°.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

I can tell you with ambient temps around 80-85, interior car temps are around 110°. In it's current state, the AC is not doing a good job of lowering interior temps.
 

tsitalon1

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Dec 29, 2010
Messages
309
Location
Montgomery Al
Still in shop!

Got a question....

On the A/C computer, there is a rotating setting control marked + and - , What does this do exactly?
 
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