TH3 Lazy arse Australian / New Zealand Picture build thread

[RedTwo]

This must be a photoshop - I can't be finished, can I?


Seems like it's all done /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Driving and everything!
I still dislike the D2's but they are better than the last time.
The drivers rear coil needs to be extended a fraction to stop it rubbing on the guard.
Rear camber is one graduation, which must be about 10-32 seconds of angle? as the total adjustment range is about -1*30' on the VR4, but only a mare 0*40' on the GTO! However it looks huge at the moment!

I hope those Evo 9 wheels turn out to be fine so I can go get a proper wheel alignment without these naff spacers. I don't really like having to run wheels as 'stud centric' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif



That photo is from the 17th of February! Dang it's taken a while...

Basic run down on the swap:
Keeping in mind I wasn't tyring to build the ulitmate street galant, like Cheekychimp. This is the budget build with intermittent splurges on non critical hardware and a sudden 'f*** it gotta move' rocket up the bum in the last two weeks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Any mention of VR4 refers to the E38A or E39A chassis Galant or similar family - possibly including the second cousins, twice removed of the VR4 - the 1G T/E/L.
Any mention of GTO refers to a Z16A chasis GTO or 3000GT, or similar vehicles such as the F25A and F27A 4WD Diamante.

What you can't use:
ABS - the VR4 has 86 teeth on the front rings and 43 teeth on the rear, the GTO has 47 teeth on the front and 47 teeth on the rear. Either delete it all or pull a few fuses.

GTO sub frame, rear differential, axles - The subframe is a completely different shape and provides a slightly wider tract. This is also why you can't use the GTO axles - they are 4 bolt axles but the shaft is a good inch too long. You can scavenge the axle cups and use them for your 4 bolt diff.

Rear sway bars - GTO is the rusty one at the bottom I think. Either way, one is clearly wider at all points.


VR4 rear calipers - Mounting holes are very different. Must use GTO single or twin piston calipers.

VR4 handbrake cables - these are too short to reach inside the GTO drums.

VR4 wheels - GTO is 5 stud, VR4 is (normally) 4 stud.

GTO lower arm bolts and toe adjustment bolts - the VR4 runs a M12 on the lower arm and a M14 on the trailing arm/toe adjustment joint, while the GTO runs a M14 and M16 respectively. These GTO bolts will not fit in the holes in the VR4 subframe.

What you can use:
GTO or VR4 rear suspension - Identical fitments, GTOs have longer stroke but greater shock diameter, dampening force and stiffer springs.

3 or 4 bolt VR4 axles - As the GTO runs the same style axle/axle cup set up as us you can run which ever axles you have on hand. Remembering that GTO axles will NEVER fit and VR4 4 bolt axles are N.L.A from Mitsubishi Motors. A HUGE thanks to Autobahntom for hooking me up with axles and Russel Forward for hooking me up with shipping /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

VR4 rear diff - well, you MUST use your diff housing at least, but what you squash into it is up to you, be it 3 or 4 bolt, open, LSD or what ever!

GTO diff internals - The ring gears on the diff will be 3.545 on manual and 3.307? on auto GTOs. The actual diff mechanisims are exactly the same as VR4 4 bolt diffs - either 4 bolt open with 4WS or 4 bolt viscous LSD with 4WS.

4WS - See point above, GTO and VR4 both have 4WS from the factory. I ditched mine so I assume you'd want to keep the VR4 4WS setup.

VR4 rear swaybar - The factory VR4 rear bar still fits - I can't see how you'd use the normal end links to attach it however. There's not a lot of room to fit it all in there. I rangi'd something up with some spherical end links from Whiteline (at almost $350 for the universal WL-060? kit!)



Basically, you can do this swap with merely a pair of GTO trailing arms, rear calipers, discs and handbrake cables.
As far as local DIY enthusiasts are concerned, the only part that I can see that may require a cert (during a minimal swap) would be the adjustment to the handbrake cable/lever - which will only be viable if you strip out the center console and carpet.

*Phew* that started off as a quick summary but it's almost all inclusive! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
I guess I have to write the 'how to' and I can't wear the JSB.org shirt now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[Telecaster]

For the guys with the QM, i hope you got the updated hardened disks. I stripped the teeth on the disks clean a year ago after doing a pull. Destroyed the input shaft with it. I went PPT after and liked the fact that i didn't have to grind down the fork. But both are good clutches regardless even if the PTT disks are thinner. But installing the accumulator made a world of difference, made it a lot more "streetable." It was like having the engagement of a ACT 2600 with almost a stock pedal feel.

 

[fuel]

wow good work RedTwo! I never knew you actually had an Eterna ZR-4 rather than a Galant VR-4!

 

[H05TYL]

^ neither! Looks really good on those wheels though, well done.

 

[RedTwo]

You guys never asked! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks, I need to get some touch ups done to the paint - the white door frames, the rattle can black bumper (there was an incident with a Honda that stuffed my original one), the left hand front corner (see honda), and the new fibreglass bonnet.
I should probably decide which grill I'm going to brutalise to fit around the intercooler :/

 

[RedTwo]

I've been doing some measurements and I may have discovered the limits of our chassis. Feel free to point out any actual examples that debunk my theroies /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

**There is a margin of error of at least 3mm on all measurements**

Without adding any additional camber to my car, the total available space in the wheel wells is 272mm (or approx 10.7") for the rear and 242mm (or approx 9.5") for the front.
Assuming a wheel, at its widest point - the bead/lip, is about 1" wider than its stated width, and given that wheels don't come in anything less than half inch widths (ignoring tyres at this point), it would seem the widest wheels I could theoretically fit are 17x8.5 and 17x9.5 front and back respectively (Any smaller dia and the trailing arm and front strut become bigger issues and reduce the wheel width).
Unless my math is off, the (only?) problem with this is these wheels would require fairly large RWD style offsets. Something in the region of +60-66 would see the wheels with around 10mm of clearance on the inside edge, while it would be touch and go to see if the outside face of the wheel would be flush with the guards or not.
It may be worth repeating that the GTO swap increases the rear track by +10mm each side, so a standard trailing arm would require less offset.

From what I've seen, only Rays make wheels wider than 8" with offsets of +40 or +50 and most others are around +12-25 to +35 when in that width range. So perfect, maximum fit, off the shelf wheels may not be possible.

I don't know about the USA (who was that guy running 10" wheels?), but around these parts (on road cars) we must not have any part of the tyre tread surface (read horizontal tyre surface) extending beyond the body panels (when viewed from above I belive).
To get around this we can do any of the following:
a) Increase camber at the expense of tyre life span
b) Increase body width through 'rolling' or stretching the guards or adding flares, at the expense of looks (these aren't Escorts or RX-7s!)
c) stretch narrow tyres (usually at the lower end of the ideal fitment range for that width) over the wheel, to decrease the horizontal surface, at the cost of tyre grip surface. ie: the 'drift' look.

I think Hostyl is running (iirc) 17x9 +30? on the front which may require some camber, so a little increase (well decrease as it's negative camber ) may not have too much of a negative impact and provide a substantial increase in space.

 

[bazeng]

I can see another widebody Galant in the making!!!

 

[H05TYL]

Quoting RedTwo:

I think Hostyl is running (iirc) 17x9 +30? on the front which may require some camber, so a little increase (well decrease as it's negative camber ) may not have too much of a negative impact and provide a substantial increase in space.



Close, 18x9 +30 with 235/40's with a fair amount of camber (cusco camber plates for an evo 5, not quite maxed out, new holes drilled in the strut tower's to fit them, actual camber unknown) - slightly rolled guards and no inner plastic liners. As the car sits now there is 14 threads showing below the lower mount, giving a wheel centre to guard lip measurement of 275mm and about 15mm clearance between tie rod and chassis (also ~2" between cross member and the ground) ie: stupidly low.

At this height there is about a finger space (~15mm) of clearance between the tire and the inner arch at full lock, so with some pulling of the outer guards it could be driven.

With less offset (or less camber) the tire may end up hitting the "shelf" in the front of the wheel arch.

I'm removing the rear hubs to get them re-drilled for 5-stud tomorrow, so sometime next week I'll be able to put the wheels on the rear and see whats what.
I noted a while ago that with 'normal' fitment wheels and tires (17x7.5 +40 215/40) the rear of the car can be sat below bump stop height (chassis resting on rear upper suspension arm) and the tires don't hit the guards at all.

The Cruise vr4 bazeng posted is running 18x9.5 +12 (or +15?) wheels according to the cruise website, and spacers.

 

[H05TYL]

Oh, and the guards will flex enough to let the wheels turn, so I can move the car around even though I haven't gotten around to raising it up yet. (wouldn't be keen to drive it anywhere like that though).

 

[bazeng]

The AMG is once again on jackstands.

VR4 is next in line for the Dog Box install.

Some pics of the work being done on the AMG.
Intercooler pipe bracing.
Active Exhaust controller install
Boost controller install

 

[VR42LT]

Very cool Baz Please tell me all those Galants are put away at night?

 

[bazeng]

That is as put away as they get!!

But I have a big electric gate and a couple of dogs!!
Plus everybody thinks that they are just shitty Mitsu Magna's anyway!

 

[H05TYL]

Hooray for outdoor living galants!

 

[RedTwo]

You can't drive all of them at the same time! You're just being greedy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[VR42LT]

Quoting bazeng:
That is as put away as they get!!

But I have a big electric gate and a couple of dogs!!
Plus everybody thinks that they are just shitty Mitsu Magna's anyway!



Nice puppy......

 

[H05TYL]

Pulled my rear hubs out today to get them re-drilled for 5-stud - holy sh1t those nuts are tight!

no pics of that end, but I gave the car a quick polish a few weeks ago, so here's a pic showing off the shine.

also test fitted the evo5 cusco shocks in the rear and discovered they are FAR too long /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
so here's the plan - hatched section is getting the chop...

 

[RedTwo]

Yeah, not too easy too loosen! It doesn't help if you don't have much space under the car to swing a cat. Lucky for power bars (read the detachable handle from my floor jack)!

What's stopping you chopping to the top part off instead?

And how come no one else has their side ribs pealing away? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif

 

[H05TYL]

Only the top 30mm of the tube is threaded, and the thread thickness is extra to the tube, so I can't just cut a new thread further down either, damn pain in the arse!

 

[H05TYL]

Compare this pic with above!
Ride height is now adjustable between: sensible-ish and slammed.

lower 'eye' from stock shock welded in place - just needs the bushing pushing back into place.

 

bazeng, how did they make that widebody on that galant? are those just off-the-shelf fender flares custom molded to it?