996/2000 restoration almost complete but doesn't start… help

[Number996]

Whatsup guys?

Just dropped the new rebuilt engine in this weekend. Put fluids in and hooked up new battery. Then went to start her and all that happens is a single click from passenger side/under dash area.

I did my homework and info leads me to believe it's the starter solenoid. I just wanted everyone's opinion if i was moving in the rigt direction to fix this problem and get on the road today after work

So when i get home i plan on checking the starter fuse then hitting the starter with a hammer, lol, and tryig again. If that doesn't work i'm going to wire the starter directly to the battery. If thatdoesn' work i'll replace the starter and when that doesn't work i'll replace the starter solenoid.

Does this sound right?!

Thanks guys, pics coming tonight on my build thread… 13 months later and sooo close

 

[desant78]

Look into clutch nuetral switch. It went on 1662 randomly from sitting for a long.while. try pressing it by hand and seeing if.it.cranks. good luck.

 

[matt92vr4]

Silly thing, but make sure the new battery is actually charged.

Also, make sure all of the engine grounds are secure.

 

[Number996]

Engine grounds were checked last night. Forgot to mention about clutch switch, plan on tryingto crank it with clutch switch unplugged when i get home. Info online says that if it is the clutch switch, unplugging it will allow to crank the engine until i can replace it, right? I have a friend meeting me at home after work with voltage meter to check the new battery and amps goin to starter

 

[Hondasi88]

hey man sorry I couldn't come through....I had school and work. I could def drive mine over so you can take a look over. Are you still in the area?

 

[Number996]

I'm banging my head against the wall here…

Took the starter out to test it; all good.

Tested power from everything and no power to solenoid plug when i turn the ignition; starter relay?!

So i then re-installed the starter and jumped it by connecting power feed and solenoid connector; engine cranked but didn't fire!

Everything worked becore i dissasembled a year ago but when i get home from work i'm going to test to see if theres fuel, injectors are firing, and if theres a spark from the starter wires. Then check all the spark plugs.

I'm now thinking it maybe ECU related; i found the ECU that came with the car was fried so i purchased what was supposed to be a stock gvr4 ECU. I'm now wondering if it wasn't a gvr4 ECU and maybe a 90 dsm ECU. I know if it's a 90 ecu i would have to switch two pins but would it prevent the engine from firing if the pins weren't switched?

Please help guys! 996/2000 is soo close

 

[transparentdsm]

I'm not 100% sure, but i don't think it will start if those pins aren't switched there the air flow sensor active filter reset and idle position switch, so unless your running dsmlink you would have to change them, i would assume.

 

[Number996]

K. Also, the car turned on and drove home after a bought it a year ago with the fried ecu (i didn't know it was fried at the time) and after incouldn't get the engine to fire, i plugged in the old ecu and still wouldn't fire

 

[Jason G.]

Check the starter relay under the dash.

 

[Number996]

Napa, advanced, and auto zone say no listing for starter relay

 

[Jason G.]

You can try bypassing the relay itself.

 

[Number996]

I have. I mentioned that above and again in my thermostat post in technical discussions. When i bypass the relay and jump the starter with a 6'' battery cable touching the starter power supply and solenoid conmector, the engine cranks fine. No unusual sounds but DOES NOT fire. I've deduced that it is either;

- no spark (checking after work today)
- no fuel (again, checking after work today)
- the new ECU (seller said oem gvr4 ecu but i'm suspecting maybe it's a 1990 dsm ecu)
- the mis-wired thermostat plug wires that were missing plugs from wire harness (more detail in my thermostat post in technical discussions)

Or a combination of these

I'm assuming compression and timing is fine because all new internals and engine is timed correctly with cam angle sensor mouted in correct position, according to a serious dsm enthusiast i know who specialises in 6bolt 4g's

 

[Jason G.]

Sorry, I must have missed it. I only saw where you hardwired the starter straight to the battery. If this is the only way you can engage the starter, the relay may still be suspect. When you're hardwiring the starter, what position is the key in?

 

[Number996]

When i got under the car to connect the starter power feed (wire from battery) wih the solenoid connector (metal tab on starter solenoid) to jump the starter, the key was in the ON position. I also had a friend try turning the key to ignition position while i jumped the starter at the same time; same result. Engine cranks but won't fire.

My priority is gettig the engine to fire. I don't mind having to jump the starter especially when the stealership want $70 for the relay.

 

[Jason G.]

Have you verified power to the ecu with key on? My point with bypassing the relay is you eliminate that potentially being the (starting) problem and can move on to the ignition switch. The relay can simply be hard wired.

 

[Number996]

How do i verify power is going to ecu? Ecu is plugged in and all power acceseries like windows, lights, even the turbo timer works

 

[Jason G.]

Does the factory boost gauge light up with the key on?
Do you have a logger?

 

[Number996]

I will check boost oem boost gauge light when inget home in and hour and a half. Would HKS VPC affect that light being on? The car is running with HKS VPC (ancient speed density technology) which deletes MAF. But i don't think that should affect anything

 

[Number996]

And no logger

 

[Number996]

I just got off the phone with my uncle whos a shop guy. He wanted me to find out if theres a theft deterant (different from alarm)? He said that most likely im cranking the enine by jumping the starter but the ecu doesn't have a signal telling it to fire