996/2000 restoration almost complete but doesn't start… help

[JNR]

Definitely check the presence of fuel/pressure and spark, as you mentioned and go from there to track down a path to look at...you're not getting one or both of those, of course.

I forgot if these cars have an inertia switch or not, like most Fords do (located in trunk) as once that gets triggered it will not allow fuel to flow (for safet reasons in an accident). I'm sure somebody can confirm or deny whether we have one or not.

 

[Number996]

I'll be home within the hour to check for spark and fuel. But i can say that last night when the gnition is turned, there is a single click (fuel pump relay i believe) and a humming from the fuel pump. Also because the hoses are old when i pushed on the fuel hose (the hose from the rail to return line, i can hear fuel gasses escaping for the pressurized system. Does this mean fuel is a go? I know it doesn't necessarily mean the injectors are firing.

And while i'm on the subject, if when i turn the ignition and theres the single click and humming from fuel pump, does this mean the ecu is getting power?!

 

[Number996]

Just got home. When key is turned to on position, no CEL or lit up oem turbo boost gauge. So my ecu isn't getting power… What. The. Heck.

 

[rgeier11]

A bad coolant temp sensor will cause a no-start, but not a no-crank.

 

[rgeier11]

 

[jmorri15]

if you pull all the underhood solonids and fuses and check the lines running to the ecu harness, i have a known good car if you need to barrow any pieces to see whats up with yours.

 

[strokin4dr]

Use a test light or multimeter to check that the ecu is getting power. You can look up the diagrams for the pinouts and make sure you see 12+ volts where it should be. Also check the ecu grounds the same way.
If that checks out good then follow the diagram that was just posted to see where the problem is.
Also, it would be helpful to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail to confirm fuel pressure. If you have fuel pressure, use a noid light to make sure the injectors are firing and also check to make sure the coils are firing while you are at it.
You are making this much more complicated than it really is and need to step back and test what is going on before just guessing and throwing parts at it.
I would also remove the VPC and put the MAF back on before trying to start it. Simplify things and you will have a much easier time figuring out issues like this.

 

[misterfixit]

Get the factory shop manual, and bin that on demand crap.

Get the MFI circuit and work with that first. not the starter.

The MPI relay is a dual relay, one for the fuel pump, one for the ecu sensors and power stages. Both coils are signalled together or independantly dependant on the cars configuration for destination market and regulations.

If the ecu gets frazzled by acid from the caps its possible to reconfigure the wiring externally to allow it to still control the wiring.

From your posts I would be suspecting the ECU and the MFI interface.

Get the factory diagrams and work from them. keep the faith and you'll get there.

Rich

 

[Number996]

Thanks guys. With all of your help, the car started fine and idled with CAS in mid position. However, because of coolant coming from the tailpipe, inbroke downthe motor to remove cylinder head. Decking it this weekend and reassembling