The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
TH3 Lazy arse Australian / New Zealand Picture build thread
- Thread startercurtis
- Start date
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Ah Right! I did see that actually. I thought originally you only bought the elbow and were using your own intercooler piping. So I take it you used that UICP too? The problem is that I have a top to bottom intercooler with the inlet and outlet on 'our' drivers side (RHD). I was going to cut and re-weld that elbow to fire off something like an EVO III 16G in the other direction. What size is that pipe though 2.5"? I wonder if they would do me a kit with the exact same pipe in 3"? After I clocked my Holset n the other car, my ETS piping came up short. This would bridge the gap better than the assortment of pipes I am using now but my pipes are all 3".
Edit: Thinking about it though, I probably should just buy that kit. I can use the elbow on the stock car. On the other car I should probably stay with 2.5" from the turbo and split the pipe open at the other end, weld in a triangular piece so that the diameter radius' out and weld a 3" piece of pipe at the other end to meet the 3" ETS pipe. That would probably work and be cooler than anything if done properly.
What is the difference between the EVO 9 and the EVO 7, 8 & 10 elbow?
Edit: Thinking about it though, I probably should just buy that kit. I can use the elbow on the stock car. On the other car I should probably stay with 2.5" from the turbo and split the pipe open at the other end, weld in a triangular piece so that the diameter radius' out and weld a 3" piece of pipe at the other end to meet the 3" ETS pipe. That would probably work and be cooler than anything if done properly.
What is the difference between the EVO 9 and the EVO 7, 8 & 10 elbow?
Last edited:
ozyvr4
Well-known member
I only did buy the elbow. I already had the top pipe. That is the only place he has picture of the hole lot.
The pipe is 2.5 O.D
The Evo 9 elbow has a tighter curve. I used the evo 7-8 to get over the high runners of the FP mani.
Welding it in the other direction would work great also. He would most likely do the a Evo 3 kit also with that pipe.
The pipe is 2.5 O.D
The Evo 9 elbow has a tighter curve. I used the evo 7-8 to get over the high runners of the FP mani.
Welding it in the other direction would work great also. He would most likely do the a Evo 3 kit also with that pipe.
Last edited:
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Cool, let me get the car and mount the intercooler core and see how the piping routes best. I'll PM you and thanks for the offer of the help, I may well take you up on that.
Paul.
Paul.
ozyvr4
Well-known member
No probs champ. Just let me know when you ready.
RedTwo
Well-known member
Who likes progress? Me! Me! Pick Me!
Nothing gets a rocket under you like being given two weeks to move out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
I say tentatively that the GTO rear end swap is complete. Tentatvely because the car is still JSB but all the work on that end of the car is done.
It seems impossible to fit the 26mm Whiteline rear bar by the stiffest setting (inner hole), at least without bending things.
A quick photo of the rear fitment of the 16x8 +30 wheels, with ~8mm spacer must make them +22 offset? This is with the suspension set to 0 toe, 0 camber, and D2 coilovers.
Rear sway bar connected. This is not the best way to do it but I am in a hurry!
Just need to:
Cut out the last low pressure 4WS line from the engine bay.
Fit big master cylinder and pressurise system.
Decide if I want to fit the LM-2 now.
Refit radiator and I/C pipes.
Buy some seats to use with Curtis's awesome brackets /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Nothing gets a rocket under you like being given two weeks to move out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
I say tentatively that the GTO rear end swap is complete. Tentatvely because the car is still JSB but all the work on that end of the car is done.
It seems impossible to fit the 26mm Whiteline rear bar by the stiffest setting (inner hole), at least without bending things.
A quick photo of the rear fitment of the 16x8 +30 wheels, with ~8mm spacer must make them +22 offset? This is with the suspension set to 0 toe, 0 camber, and D2 coilovers.
Rear sway bar connected. This is not the best way to do it but I am in a hurry!
Just need to:
Cut out the last low pressure 4WS line from the engine bay.
Fit big master cylinder and pressurise system.
Decide if I want to fit the LM-2 now.
Refit radiator and I/C pipes.
Buy some seats to use with Curtis's awesome brackets /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Last edited:
fuel
Well-known member
Loving the stance! You think you'll drop her down a bit and get some tuck happening? 16x8 must be GTR rims yeah?
Also yep gotta have having to move, I moved about two months ago and you don't realise how much crap you have until you have to move it all!
Also yep gotta have having to move, I moved about two months ago and you don't realise how much crap you have until you have to move it all!
RedTwo
Well-known member
Yeah GTR wheels. I would sack it down all the way but my exhaust hangs pretty low and I have to negotiate a few crests in the roadway /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
I will have to see what happens when I drop if off the jack stands, maybe now that I've stiffened up the spring rate it may be able to go lower without bottoming out as easily.
I will have to see what happens when I drop if off the jack stands, maybe now that I've stiffened up the spring rate it may be able to go lower without bottoming out as easily.
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Quoting RedTwo:
It seems impossible to fit the 26mm Whiteline rear bar by the stiffest setting (inner hole), at least without bending things.
Rear sway bar connected. This is not the best way to do it but I am in a hurry!
I'm glad it wasn't just me then! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
That f^#@ing thing gave me weeks of heartache.
It seems impossible to fit the 26mm Whiteline rear bar by the stiffest setting (inner hole), at least without bending things.
Rear sway bar connected. This is not the best way to do it but I am in a hurry!
I'm glad it wasn't just me then! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
That f^#@ing thing gave me weeks of heartache.
RedTwo
Well-known member
I guess any news is good news?
First drive tonight, found a few issues:
Handbreak doesn't seem to do much at the moment. May need to adjust the tensioners inside the drums, or adjust the main cable/tensioner in the cabin.
1.5 way mechanical rear diff is tight, or my old open diff was super sloppy! It seems to do a good job of being a handbrake at the moment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
Springs still seem soft, the car dropped a further ~20mm when I took it off the jack stands :/
I seem to have lost power steering when I pulled the 4WS. It may just be a lack of fluid in the reservoir.
I need to add this to the bonehead thread - I forgot to tighten the wheel nuts after I dropped the car off the jack stands /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif took me down to the end of the drive to figure it out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif I still don't think I've got them sorted, or I need a slightly larger spacer? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
First drive tonight, found a few issues:
Handbreak doesn't seem to do much at the moment. May need to adjust the tensioners inside the drums, or adjust the main cable/tensioner in the cabin.
1.5 way mechanical rear diff is tight, or my old open diff was super sloppy! It seems to do a good job of being a handbrake at the moment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
Springs still seem soft, the car dropped a further ~20mm when I took it off the jack stands :/
I seem to have lost power steering when I pulled the 4WS. It may just be a lack of fluid in the reservoir.
I need to add this to the bonehead thread - I forgot to tighten the wheel nuts after I dropped the car off the jack stands /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif took me down to the end of the drive to figure it out /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif I still don't think I've got them sorted, or I need a slightly larger spacer? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
fuel
Well-known member
who would have thought filthy skyrine rims would have suited the VR-4, they look awesome. What profile tyres are you running? looks to be 225/50 perhaps a tad on the balloon side, though I can't talk I'm running 205/60s!
also where in NZ are you? I wouldn't mind seeing this in the flesh one day.
also where in NZ are you? I wouldn't mind seeing this in the flesh one day.
Last edited:
bazeng
Well-known member
Nice!
Same fuel rail I have!!
Stock type box???
Same fuel rail I have!!
Stock type box???
bazeng
Well-known member
I broke mine without even launching the thing.
Just keep the dyno runs to 3rd gear OR tune with a faster ramping rate and it should last on the dyno.
Is it an RS box or std box?
Just keep the dyno runs to 3rd gear OR tune with a faster ramping rate and it should last on the dyno.
Is it an RS box or std box?
bazeng
Well-known member
Yeah, RS box meaning 3.909
Ok now i admit im not up to date with the whole gearbox ratio, LSD , mechanical this and that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif all i really know is 3 bolt or 4 bolt so having said that Baz here is the box and drive line i bought and hopefully you can tell me what ive got /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
click
click
Last edited:
Rear diff will be a 3.909 ratio viscous lsd with 4 bolt axles and 4ws pump.
gearbox will be a w5m33 to suit 3.909 rear end, transfer case will be steel head.
most likely open front diff, gear ratio's will be:
1st 2.571
2nd 1.600
3rd 1.160
4th 0.862
5th 0.617
gearbox will be a w5m33 to suit 3.909 rear end, transfer case will be steel head.
most likely open front diff, gear ratio's will be:
1st 2.571
2nd 1.600
3rd 1.160
4th 0.862
5th 0.617
bazeng
Well-known member
Exactly as expressed above.
The only possible differences would be the optional - front viscous diff and rear diff may possibly be open.
Did Razza tell you what they were at all?
I've purchased an open 4bolt off a monte carlo with a 3.909 ratio (perfect for my mech lsd upgrade as I needed the shafts)
What numbers are on the gearbox?
The only possible differences would be the optional - front viscous diff and rear diff may possibly be open.
Did Razza tell you what they were at all?
I've purchased an open 4bolt off a monte carlo with a 3.909 ratio (perfect for my mech lsd upgrade as I needed the shafts)
What numbers are on the gearbox?
