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Some more photo's. I managed to get the doors all apart, as well as the bumpers and trunk. Started some body work and will hopefully prime all the parts or the body by wednesday.
The biggest pain that I have had is removing the moulding at the top of the doors....Trying to get my hand up in the door to release the clips so I wouldn't hurt the moulding. I think my arms will be hurting for the next couple of days!
My plan is to block the doors, trunk and hood tomorrow after I prime the car....Paint the doors, trunk and hood while the primer dries on the car then block and paint the car...Not sure about the other 100 pieces that came off of it yet, but I'll fit them in somewhere!
I run a fabrication/restoration business. We have a full PPG DBC2000 base coat mixing station. I spray with Sata guns. I use a 1.5 tip for my sealer gun, a 1.3 tip for my base gun, and a 1.4 tip for my clear gun. My primer gun is a 2.2 tip!
To answer your question about the primer...I use K38 and K201 for the primer. I use mainly DP40 and DP401LF for sealer. I use DCD35 and DFX11 for my clear. The other product that I use a lot of is DT870-898. This is a reducer that lets my chose how fast things dry. DT870 when I need things to dry quickly all the way up to DT898 if I need them to dry slowly. I am refering to drying as time between coats so that I don't get dry spots from overspray! I.E. If I am paint a complete car all together I need to time to spray a full coat of clear before it starts to set up so I will use DT898. If I am just doing jambs or the under side of hoods or trunks I will use DT870!
I am...I like to use it anywhere that there is different product's. Meaning if I sand through the primer and it doesn't really need filler of if I have had to spot prime something. If there is any chance that the car has been painted I will generally spray sealer anyway to make sure I don't have problems. If it's a color I know will not cover well I will use the sealer to get a consistant color before I spray any base!
I wipe them down with wax and grease remover. Scuff them using a scuff pad and Ajax cleanser. I them pressure wash them to make sure that there is no dirt left in there (when there is sufficient time to let them dry over night). I then put them in the booth and paint!
This is were I would suggest spraying sealer!
After one coat of clear
38 parts and I didn't even pull the fenders off....That was a busy weekend! Now time for the second coat of clear....
Must be nice to have such a facility at your disposal. A full respray without removal of all the different panels is expensive enough as it is. To get all that removed and redone is crazy money. Nice work.
I am lucky enough to have a couple of buddies that work in a local autobody shop, one of which is an excellent painter. Without him, I don't think I would have been able to afford all the paintwork I've had done to my JDM parts over the years as I aquired them.
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