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Build Thread of 1415/2000

transparentdsm

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Jul 27, 2011
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Cherry Hill, NJ
and the rear.

stock height




new parts



now this is how you stance your car.


old lower control arms next to new ones.





new upper adjustable, straight lower, springs and tie rod ends




after i set the car down i didn't like the ride height so i cut 2 coils out to level out the car. i cant notice any difference between the two coils removed. here is the final outcome.



 

iceman69510

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Those rear lower arms must have been giving you some nice positive camber. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

G

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Holy f*** man, how did you bend those mofos? New parts look great! How does it ride and handle now?
 

transparentdsm

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Quoting iceman69510:
Those rear lower arms must have been giving you some nice positive camber. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


actually it kept the wheel pretty straight. when i got an alignment it was at 0. haha

G - i didn't bend those arms. ive never hit the car on anything, let alone hard enough to bend them. it must have been like that since before i got it and i just noticed it recently. the car drives great it feels better then it did before. so smooth and rough roads aren't bad. the springs are the non-race version. its really nice for me to be able to adjust everything now with all the new parts. i got the car to sit pretty good for using a piece of wood and a bubble level to do my camber.
 

transparentdsm

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and added a 8g Galant Master Brake Cylinder








fits great, looks great, works great and super easy to install. took me 40 minutes start to finish.
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

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The ports weren't bubble flared like the 3G master cylinder?

Looks like the ports are bubble flared just like the 3G master. You'll need adapters if you want the brake lines to seal properly.
165238-0-0-0.jpg
 
Last edited:

LIV4PSI

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You'll be fine Shane. Most all of us who have did the 3G master cylinder didn't convert anything and it sealed.
 

GSTwithPSI

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It may have sealed, but it's not right. You're tightening a SAE standard flare into a DIN bubble flare seat. The two fittings are vastly different, and the only way they work together when mismatched is because one side or the other deforms enough to form a half-assed seal. If you want to roll the dice on the brake system, that's your choice. I'm just pointing out the fact that if not done properly, it can present a serious safety concern.

I have a writeup with a parts list in my build thread on how to do the conversion correctly. The total for everything was under $100 IIRC.

97_2011072613131225385_71429363003060_1311765689.jpg
 

iceman69510

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Quoting GSTwithPSI:
It may have sealed, but it's not right. You're tightening a SAE standard flare into a DIN bubble flare seat. The two fittings are vastly different, and the only way they work together when mismatched is because one side or the other deforms enough to form a half-assed seal. If you want to roll the dice on the brake system, that's your choice. I'm just pointing out the fact that if not done properly, it can present a serious safety concern.

I have a writeup with a parts list in my build thread on how to do the conversion correctly. The total for everything was under $100 IIRC.

97_2011072613131225385_71429363003060_1311765689.jpg




It is especially not good putting an SAE flare male into a ISO/DIN female, as the machined angles of the intended sealing surfaces are basically completely opposite to each other. May "work" for some, but I personally would not trust it despite how many want to say it will be fine. in a pPanic stop you may see pressures over 1200 psi. Ok with that not sealing when you need it to?
 

transparentdsm

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car isnt being driven. im going to get a bubble flare tool from a friend just in case and im def checking the lines. it didnt bind or anything like that when i installed them and if need be i have the fitting from the master that i installed so its not a big deal and i will be address this.
 

G

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It won't bind because the threads are the same, I think that's where/ why people think it's ok and that everything is sealing fine.
 

transparentdsm

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Brett your right about the flare on the brake line. i looked at the fittings and they were different. im getting the tool and im redoing the brake line fittings and flares tomorrow afternoon. THANK YOU for bringing this up. i wouldn't have known till i lost brake pressure. i love this forum.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Hey Shane, no worries. I wasn't trying to be a dick, I just wanted you to be aware.

I went through this whole fiasco when I converted to a 3G master, so I'm glad I can pass on what I have learned. I used adapters because the flaring tool needed to make the bubble flares is different than the kit I had for standard flares. You'll need to make sure your kit has the right dies to flare the line correctly. I also wanted to use flexable AN lines, so again, the adapters were the way to go for me.

The chances of a complete brake system failure, even with mismatched fittings, is probably slim. But just as iceman said, if it were to happen, it would probably happen in an emergency stop situation when you're really counting on the brakes to stop you. It's fairly cheap to do the job right, so there's really no reason not to.

You're making great progress on your build, and it's awesome to see other members turning average VR-4s into capable machines. Keep up the good work, and I (and others) are always here to assist fellow members when we can.
 

transparentdsm

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i was not offended. i love other perspective and safety is an issue for me. i drive the car hard and i try to maintain it and keep it as top notch as i can. i do not drive nice. im aggressive and i hit my brakes hard. ill make sure i have the right tools and i know i have the right parts to do it.

thank you on the progress. i have been trying hard and i really love the car.
 

G

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zompton
Found an old pic.

IMG_0053.jpg
 
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