Need some advice on transmission problem.

So we changed my transmission today and after we got it all together. I'm not sure how to explain this but the clutch doesn't feel like it's engaging all the way. We bled the clutch. The transmission seems like it doesnt want to go into gear. So we tried play with the linkage and it got alittle better. The car was doing this before it would disengage right at the floor and engage right when you tryed to release it and it would grind gears because the clutch wasn't engaging all the way and its doing the samething /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif.Has anybody had this problem?

 

[TRBODSM]

These vids from jack might help you out.

click

click

 

pedal assembly!

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to order a new clutch fork and shim the pivot ball and see if that works.

 

[autobahntom]

The pedal assembly. The shim/fork is most likely not your problem. I replaced the clutch/flywheel/fork/ball and then pulled it all out to take the shim out-Then found out about the pedal problem.
The pedal assembly is easy to check to see if it is the problem. Takes 20 seconds. Pulling the trans to put a new fork/ball in takes slightly longer.
Tom

 

How do you check the pedal problem?

 

[autobahntom]

To check the pedal problem: First look at some pics of the pieces that go bad-JNZ and Shep both have them on their web sites. It will be much easier to 'see' the problem if you know how the pieces are layed out under the dash.

Get on your knees outside the driver's door on the ground (with the door open) and put both arms under dash.
Grab the clutch pedal with your left hand.
Grab the 'arm' that the clutch master cylinder attaches to. There should be NO play here. It is easier to feel the play if you take the cottor pin and clevis pin out that holds the clutch master to this arm.
Tom

 

Checked the pedal as soon as you push the pedal the rod moves.

 

You also shouldn't be able to pull it back at you either. Try adjusting the master cylinder rod out as far as it will go. This will lift the pedal to a higher resting position. If the pedal looks low compared to the brake thats an indicator of a problem.

 

[autobahntom]

Check for play both ways, pushing and pulling on the pedal and arm. The problem is the 'arm' on the clutch master side has a hole cut in it-and this hole gets egged out. But, the end of the arm (where it actually attaches to the clutch master rod) is a long ways from where it bolts to the cross piece. What happens is that little wear at the pivot transmits to a huge amount at the end that moves the clutch master rod. I have some pics of the worn pieces on my other computer. When I get over to where it is, I will post them.
Tom

 

[red90awd]

+1 for the CPA

 

I had one break in 2 places. The typical nut end of shaft location. I welded it put it back in and it still wasn't right and got progressively worse till I pulled it again and found it was cracked in the middle of the cross shaft. I dislike pedal assemblies that do not cooperate.

 

Example of typical cpa - nut removed, and welded.

(crappy bb in the dark pic)

 

[MitchooO]

I had this problem when I took my car apart and will probably have it when i put it all back together, but im tired of messing with it and making a custom adjuster for the pedal assembly, it will just work enough if im on the last half thread of the adjuster but it still isnt to my liking, and ive already wasted an entire night pulling the tranny out and replacing the old stuff with a brand new clutch fork, new pivot ball, and spaced with a new slave and master cylinder and STILLLL had the exact problem...was i ever mad. if its not just from the pedal assy. not being welded thats great, but i believe the egged out of shape it the real cause, so if my adjuster works ill let some people know what i used. hope this helps a little!

 

The egged out shape IS the cause and the welding the 2 pieces together is the easiest way to eliminate the problem. Don't even bother with extending the master cylinder rod beyond factory length.