Clutch not disengaging, Help

List of things replaced:
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch line (one piece braided stainless)
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch fork
Pivot ball/fulcrum w/ 1 washer
Release Bearing
Pressure plate (ACT2600)
Clutch Disc (ACT Street Disc)
Flywheel (Clutchmasters)

Adjusted the pedal via the "Jacks Transmission" method to ensure teh slave is still self adjusting.
Bled Every which way imaginable, (pump & hold, gravity, slave purge, etc)

I'm still only getting 3/8" movement, and the clutch is not disengaging. I'm lost at this point and have no idea what to do. The car will change gears if you rev match, it will change gears with the engine off, the clutch is just not releasing enough to completely disengage. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[toybreaker]

I predict more bleeding in your future...

It only takes a little 3/8th's size bubbly anywhere in the system to reduce the effective travel of the system to where there's not enough throw to disengage the clutch.

With the one piece line, you can hang the whole shitaree from the hood with a bungy, and then carefully finish the bleeding operation.

Just make sure to hold the slave piston in. I bent up a sheetmetal clamp, to hold the piston in (while I'm getting organised), but a mini c-clamp works too.

Make the bleeder the highest point in the system, put a hose on it, crack the bleeder open, and push the slave piston back in with your finger, close the bleeder, then have someone slowly depress the clutch pedal (by hand works best).

Let the piston move as far as it's going to, and crack the bleeder open, whilst pushing it back in slowly.

If you use a clear hose, you'll see the air bubbles come out.

Usually, it'll only take five or six times with the bleeder at the high point to clear the air out.


You'll feel the travel increase, and know you're getting close, and when no more bubbles appear, you're good to go.

If you're still having issues, it may be time to bleed the master.

I always try and bench bleed the master before installation, because it's easy to get the output line to the high spot off the car, and get all the air out before installing it. Installed, the line isn't always the high spot, so air can be trapped in the master. No amount of pedal bleeding will get that out.

Good luck, and I find it's better to drink the right beer doing this job...

...just don't use beer bottles to put the used fluid in! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Hertz]

Was the flywheel stepped correctly for the ACT2600?

 

it's a brand new clutchmasters flywheel specifically for this vehicle, so yes, it is stepped correctly.

 

[rgeier11]

I had this problem when my bolts holding the trans to the block came loose.

 

+1 same thing happened to me when I lost my firewall side bellhousing bolt.

. . . I cracked the engine block ear for the bell housing bolt on the radiator side in the process. One hell of a way to fvck your block.