Thinking of getting this Clutch What u guys think

I checked out this Clutch on Ebay Price seems Fair does any body have an experience with any of these clutches im looking into the stage 2 or Stage 3 not sure which to choose But looking to buy one soon just want to make sure i don't buy something thats going to be bad quality but heres the link click

click

 

The less I want to redo something the more I'll pay for quality parts with a good reputation.

 

[ggsxkid]

I have had 2 clutches from F1 and they have both been great. The first one i ran in my ggsx and it was the stage 2. It lasted 60k with me beating the crap out of it religously. After that i went to the stage 3. its kinda sticky for daily driving especially being the car doesn't make anything for power. . . But it all depends on the plans you have later on down the road. You definately want to plan ahead when it comes to clutches. you buy something to weak and it might start slipping with your extra mods down the road.

 

[Tre3zy]

i have that in my car rite now and im telling you i regret buying it.... im currently running a b16g on the car with supporting mods and when i get in the 2step and ease off the line it just starts slipping.... the thing with that is its pretty much a oem pressure plate.... they just painted it blue

 

Ok so there Clutches aren't too Bad then I'm thinking of getting the stage 3. But i have stock fly wheel and car is all stock for now or should i stick with the stage 2 For now I'm planning on modding but thats later on the road.

 

[BrandonEchols]

If you're going with an ebay clutch...there's only one option: XTD Stage 4

6 puck solid hub, and proven to hold 500HP...don't bother with any other eBay clutch.

 

[snohacking]

^ I with him on that. I have a stage 3 XTD clutch in my 2g for over 3 years and never had one problem yet.

 

[OMFGeofffff]

I've heard the stage 4 is a lot better so that's what I got for my car. Pedal feel is not very different from stock but still is slightly stiffer. It does like to chatter a little bit though.

 

[OZRally]

I too am running the XTD Stage 4 kit. Been 1 year and haven't had any problems with that setup.

 

[The_Big_Weave]

The clutch says that it fits 3000gts and stealths.

 

OK That Stage 4 sounds nice but might be a little too much clutch for me Might go with the XTD Stage 3 and if i do decide going with the stage 3 im i just better off going with the stage4 i'm asking because this is going to be a Dayle Driver and im all stock for now Dont know if that stage 4 Might be a little too Sticky for my setup ...I for got to mention i have a Stock Fly Wheel will that matter???

 

What is your setup? What are your goals for the car?

If your car is all stock and is a daily driver and will stay that way then you can get an OEM clutch disc and pressure plate for $140 and have OEM reliability and drivability.

The stock flywheel will work fine with any clutch you get as long as it is resurfaced and stepped to the correct height.

 

[broxma]

I have the Pressure plate for the stage 3 F1 Clutch sitting in my Garage. The reason it's only the pressure plate is because the Spring popped out of the disc and locked the flywheel to the disc at 45 MPH. What this means is you can't take the car out of gear, and you if you hit the brake the car dies. In addition, You can't move the car, because you can't get it into gear if it's running and if you start out with the car in gear, it moves even when the pedal is pressed.

So I have a Spec Stage 3 clutch now. I gave the Ebay Clutch its shot. It failed after less than 2K at power levels below rated. I will never buy another F1 clutch and dissuade anyone from doing so based on my evidence.

Now, why did the spring pop out. Well the springs are held in by small bent tabs which are basically small cuts of the metal flat surface. The thickness of this surface varies greatly between clutches, with the Spec clutch having a measured close to double the thickness of the F1 clutch. Given heat expansion of the spring, heat expansion of the metal plate itself, any jarring motion on the spring will easily push it through the tab, and lock it against the flywheel. I have pictures of all of this to verify my assessment as I wanted to figure out why the disc failed myself. Essentially, the main supporting face of the Spec clutch is quite a bit more robust than the cheaper Ebay part. This may in fact be the only difference, but it is enough of one that I will not see another Ebay clutch in this garage.

/brox

 

[524of1000]

Quoting Darksyne:
The less I want to redo something the more I'll pay for quality parts with a good reputation.



^ THIS.

 

[BrandonEchols]

Quoting broxma:
I have the Pressure plate for the stage 3 F1 Clutch sitting in my Garage. The reason it's only the pressure plate is because the Spring popped out of the disc and locked the flywheel to the disc at 45 MPH. What this means is you can't take the car out of gear, and you if you hit the brake the car dies. In addition, You can't move the car, because you can't get it into gear if it's running and if you start out with the car in gear, it moves even when the pedal is pressed.

So I have a Spec Stage 3 clutch now. I gave the Ebay Clutch its shot. It failed after less than 2K at power levels below rated. I will never buy another F1 clutch and dissuade anyone from doing so based on my evidence.

Now, why did the spring pop out. Well the springs are held in by small bent tabs which are basically small cuts of the metal flat surface. The thickness of this surface varies greatly between clutches, with the Spec clutch having a measured close to double the thickness of the F1 clutch. Given heat expansion of the spring, heat expansion of the metal plate itself, any jarring motion on the spring will easily push it through the tab, and lock it against the flywheel. I have pictures of all of this to verify my assessment as I wanted to figure out why the disc failed myself. Essentially, the main supporting face of the Spec clutch is quite a bit more robust than the cheaper Ebay part. This may in fact be the only difference, but it is enough of one that I will not see another Ebay clutch in this garage.

/brox



And that is why I will never own a sprung disk that doesn't have fully encased springs.
Clutchnet or solid hub for me, thanks.

 

[yeti]

I would Say NO since you have a completely unmolested gvr4 with all reciepts since it was boughten from dealership

I know because I was. Supposed to pick it up but u snagged it for a hearty price of 3200$(I don't care)

But have you diagnosed your turbo not spooling issue if not please start by keeping this gvr4 clean and respectable ......

if you want to throw parts that your not sure of their reliability I would say keep all of those for a dsm since there's enough of those and people already treat them like sh*t.

All I'm asking is REALIZE YOU HAVE A lIMITED EDITION performance sedan....
Keep it that way....remember your power will not last long if you never do boring maintenance on your car.

 

[BrandonEchols]

 

[Diego]

click

I run this ^^. It's a better feel over the 2600 I shattered a few seasons back. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

I might just get that stage 3 xtd for now and save up for a clutch master or atc later on down the road

 

[curtis]

Here's my take on all these stage 19 and below clutches. They hold better due to tighter springs in the pressure plate or the steps cut down on the flywheel. All this has a cost. It puts more force against the thrust on the crank and causes wear. Mostly at start up because you have the clutch in to start the car and the thrust has no oil on it. Now if yours doesn't idle your starting it more at red lights. More wear...So do yourself a favor and unplug the clutch safety switch and start the car out of gear with the clutch out.

Now with all that said the stiffer spring is really grabbing harder and is shock loading the gears more if your aggressive, I drive that way and usually got 12 to 18 months out of a disk unless I exploded a gear or an axle or a diff and rear axle /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif .

If you want to save up save up and get a PTT or a Quartermaster twin disk. Pedal pressure is that of half a stocker so no abuse to the thrust, your leg doesn't get tired and by having two disks lasts longer because it does shock into a heavy load situation like a single unless you want it to. This makes gears and axles live longer and the disks as well...Another great thing because there not slipping your putting all the power to the ground.

I use to build and mess with big V8 cars and GN's and if you've ever driven a solid axle V8 car with any thing done to it you can nail the pedal and look in the mirror and watch the car paint marks in just about any gear not smoking the tires just dusting them. After I installed the schwitzer and the PTT the car started dusting the tires the same way. That means power is going to the ground not going to the ground and slipping making heat.


My two cents about stage anything rant off.