Subframe Removal Problem (picture)

[mooserage]

So I am removing my subframe to replace my rear diff. Basically I started loosening the bolt and it was very difficult (using a very long bar), but never stopped being difficult. I don't want to keep forcing it, and after looking a little closer it almost looks like it is cocked a little. Am I totally f*d here? The other side is the same way, really difficult, and switching from c/clockwise to clockwise doesn't seem to loosen it at all. Weird thing is I could swear I have taken these off before... Thanks for any suggestions guys.
-shamus

 

[Terry Posten]

You can try a little propane torch and heat it up a little. If you break the bolt, you will just have to drill it out and re-tap to the next size bigger.

Not really the end of the world, just a pain in the rear.

 

[AnotherNewb]

^ HaHa, pain in the rear, I get it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[mooserage]

Okay, just wanted to check, I thought maybe it was coming out sideways. I already have to drill out 4 of the exhaust hanger bolts (hence my hesitation and frustration today...) so if I break it I guess thats just a lil more work haha. Thanks, I'll try the torch.
-shamus

 

Never never use a long bar you will snap it. Take a punch put on the end and give a short but stout tap with a hammer. Cheater bars are to much torque ive seen guys at school use them and the teacher comes running. We do the punch trick and walah. It frees up some corosion inside.

 

[Romanova]

My car was a rusty sh*t box in the rear. I hit them with an impact... no problems.

 

[raptorWagon]

^ this was the same for my rear, impact worked like a champ.

 

[mooserage]

Alright, I'll try punching it to get some of it broken up, then hit it with an impact. I still cant help but feel like it is coming out at an angle, but I also dont see how thats possible considering it threads in the frame.

Quoting Romanova:
My car was a rusty sh*t box in the rear. I hit them with an impact... no problems.



The rust is the only and most discouraging thing about working on my car. If I could do one underbody job without breaking a bolt I'd probably cry with joy haha. Any suggestions for keeping rust away in the future?
-shamus

 

[alansupra94]

Quoting Romanova:
My car was a rusty sh*t box in the rear. I hit them with an impact... no problems.



Impact FTW....best tool in my garage.

 

[mooserage]

I was originally going to use it but couldnt get the gun to fit between the car and ground haha, I'm not JSB'in high enough I guess.
-shamus

 

[SmoothCustomer]

Quoting mooserage:
Alright, I'll try punching it to get some of it broken up, then hit it with an impact. I still cant help but feel like it is coming out at an angle, but I also dont see how thats possible considering it threads in the frame.

Quoting Romanova:
My car was a rusty sh*t box in the rear. I hit them with an impact... no problems.



The rust is the only and most discouraging thing about working on my car. If I could do one underbody job without breaking a bolt I'd probably cry with joy haha. Any suggestions for keeping rust away in the future?
-shamus



Por-15.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

what do u use to re-install the subframe then? Do u pretty much need a tranny jack or something big like that to get it back up and in?>

 

[mooserage]

Quoting SmoothCustomer:


Por-15.



Yeah, I really need to por the underbody. How do you guys prep it for por? Do I need to just pressure wash the grime off, sand/steel brush all the rust off? What about the stock undercoating/paint, just put it over the top of it?

Quote:
what do u use to re-install the subframe then? Do u pretty much need a tranny jack or something big like that to get it back up and in?>


The FSM says to use a tranny jack, which I don't have, but basically yes. I'm using a couple jacks a some muscle. I'll let you know how it goes haha.
-shamus

 

[raptorWagon]

You use friends to help with the removal/installment! I've always used a floor jack under the diff to support most of the weight, then you won't have to worry about anything heavy falling. It's just a overall pita to deal with, helps when you have an extra hand working on it.

 

[H05TYL]

If you've still got the stock squidgy rubber subframe bushes you don't need to remove the subframe to replace the diff...

Unbolt the drivesahft, the rear axle flanges and the bolt on either side of the diff, then
support the diff from underneath with a jack then un-bolt the mustache bar, lower the jack and there's enough 'give' in the front subframe bushes to allow the subframe to droop enough to get a socket onto the top 2 bolts, undo these and the diff is free, lift the subframe back upto the angle it should be at and place a block of wood/etc under it to hold it in place until you are ready to install the new diff.

Installation is the reverse of above.