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Rattle after cam install

Egalloway

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Asheville nc
So I just got 737 back after the kelford 272 cams, supertech springs, AEM cam gears install. They had the belt(newbelt but no name brand, old tensioner)let go as they started out of the shop and I get a call about a slipped belt bad tensioner blah blah blah. Well they offer new valves and give me the cometic head gasket, greddy belt and OEM tensioner at cost and knock a couple hours off labor. I brought it home running but man it vibrates at cruise speed like crazy and makes a weird metal rattle between 2900-3150 rpm, then it clears out but the vibration gets worse as you climb rpm. I haven't boosted the car past a couple pounds and haven't rev d it past 4100 since I'm really concerned. I plan to take it to 3sx next week and let them look at it but ANY helpful advice or guidance would be Very much appreciated. What the hell could cause that rattle and is the vibration just the nature of the big cams? It actually has a decent bottom end grunt but t did before. 3sx will be installing my injectors and dsmlink next week so guess that will help data wise but I am so disappointed. The car ran great smooth and easy, now not so much. I can tell even the little bit I've ran it is a whole different beast, I really want to open it up with a good tune but I'm terrified it has something wrong.
 

pot

Staff member
Joined
Oct 28, 2003
Messages
1,573
Location
Fayetteville, NC
Couple things:

1.) Do not drive
2.) Your composition skills need some work. Use paragraphs to separate your thoughts.
3.) Return your vehicle to "They" and have the concern addressed
4.) If "They" is an individual you do not trust as opposed to reputable shop then attempt to resolve on your own in following order:

A.) Rotate Engine by hand and attempt to duplicate the noise. Use 1/2 inch wratchet on Harmonic Balancer
B.) Check that all your timing marks line up
C.) Remove valve cover and ensure each Cam Cap is torqued to FSM spec

*Do you have balance shafts?
** You mentioned tensioner. Which one? I'm assuming the timing belt tensioner. If its bad did you replace it?
 
Last edited:

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Sounds like the rear balance shaft is out of time to me. The tech probably didn't think the oil pump had to be "timed". Seen it many times.
 

Egalloway

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Asheville nc
I'm a dumbass, thanks for the help guys.
It is a bracket rattling on the firewall. Put some padding on the line and tightened the bolt, bingo all good again. The car doesn't have balance shafts, delete kits. The vibration is just the big cam and poly mounts all way round, just didn't think about it. No free lunch, big changes over stock and I can't expect stock like ride, the steering wheel has vibrated like it was going to fly off since the poly mounts went in so I should have thought of it.
Was just tired and upset with the odd behavior of it all.
Good news all around, I found a donor trans to send to Jacks for a rebuild today also.
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
With HKS 272's and poly mounts, my car vibrates a good amount at idle. Keys rattle, etc. But once driving down the road or under acceleration, it's smooth as butter. You shouldn't be getting vibrations at that point. You sure something else isn't wrong?
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I'm with Mark. You describe it more violently then just cam lope. I'm running poly mounts with an oversized front bolt in the front mount with Kelford 264's w/ OS valves and no shafts. I have a little vibration, barely makes the keys jiggle. It's nothing like what you describe, also like Mark said the vibration should be gone the second you start moving or get the rev's past 3k.

You could try loosening all the mount center bolts some and what frame bolts you can, then rock the car some while in gear. Tighten the front, rear, trans and side mount in that order. It did help my car some. (helps center all the mounts and removes binding)
 
Last edited:

Egalloway

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2013
Messages
45
Location
Asheville nc
Great help guys. My keys do just rattle after 2500. The higher end vibration I think is a bent wheel. Rerotated and gone to light vibration from the rear.

It always vibrated bad at idle, just more so. 2200 it is faded out 2500 and above the keys rattle enough to hear, just a little more than before. So I think it was tire related. Ill follow your advice and do loosen shuffle tighten. Thanks for the help. It is much appreciated.

The shop that did the work said bring it in and they would check it. Without the scary rattle at 3000 and vibration it was nice. The cams really are a whole new machine. Talked to the shop about it and they mentioned locking the oil pump so thanks to you guys here I new what to ask and listen for. The shop owner and tech that did my car were really helpful so I'm pleased.
 
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