I'm currently replacing the parking brake cables on 1899, but there is one bracket I can't get off. On the passenger side, the cable has a bracket i can't get at right next to the driveshaft. Anyone know which one I'm talking about - I have no digital camera to make the description easier - and know how to get it off?
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
fivestardsm
Well-known member
If I am correct, it has a 12mm head bolt wich sits behind the heat shield. Its probably a little rusted and might snap if you dont use heat to get it out.
I would however, see if you can atleast get a phone picture of it if you can. Anything is better than nothing.
I would however, see if you can atleast get a phone picture of it if you can. Anything is better than nothing.
Were you able to get the parking brake cable out? If so, how did you do it? I am trying to do the same thing and ran into a similar problem only on the driver side. I'm doing the passenger side next. Did you have to take the heat shield off to get to it?
raptorWagon
Well-known member
I just did this job a week ago. I removed my heat shield, made things a lot easier and well it pretty much crumbled apart when I bent it out of the way. The hardest one I had to deal with was next to the rear carrier bearing on the passenger side (carrier bearing nut on the pass side was rounded off, go figure). My only problem working on my car is, if it involves taking off rusty bolts its a 95% guarantee that the bolt will snap off, which they all did except one /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. I had to beat the passenger side with a flat head and hammer to pop it out of it's hole to the lever.
EDIT: I to the OP, talking about the one next to the carrier bearing that I just mentioned? Going to be easier if you unbolt the carrier bearing from the car, need a deep well socket, I think a 14mm or 15mm size. As I stated I had a hell of a time with that bracket, since the nut on that side of the bearing was already rounded off. I ended up having to just beat the crap out of the bracket to get the cable off.
Hell, I just fixed my car, hoping I fixed it's oil leaks, but nope still leaking and officially going to join the JSB crew now. Time to start tearing down the engine.
EDIT: I to the OP, talking about the one next to the carrier bearing that I just mentioned? Going to be easier if you unbolt the carrier bearing from the car, need a deep well socket, I think a 14mm or 15mm size. As I stated I had a hell of a time with that bracket, since the nut on that side of the bearing was already rounded off. I ended up having to just beat the crap out of the bracket to get the cable off.
Hell, I just fixed my car, hoping I fixed it's oil leaks, but nope still leaking and officially going to join the JSB crew now. Time to start tearing down the engine.
Last edited by a moderator:
I've had the same problem with rusty bolts. So far I've been pretty fortunate with the bolts holding the parking brake cable.
I was able to get all but one of the bolts off for the driver side parking brake cable. The one that's left is the one closest to where the cable enters the center console. It looks like I'm going to have to take that heat shield off.
Did you have to drop the exhaust to remove that heat shield? Do you know how many and where all the bolts are that hold it on? So far I have only found one. The drawing I have shows two of them but it doesn't really show their exact location.
I still have to do the passenger side. Hopefully I can unbolt that carrier bearing without any problems.
Sucks about the oil leaks. It sucks doing a bunch of work and finding out the problem is still not fixed.
I was able to get all but one of the bolts off for the driver side parking brake cable. The one that's left is the one closest to where the cable enters the center console. It looks like I'm going to have to take that heat shield off.
Did you have to drop the exhaust to remove that heat shield? Do you know how many and where all the bolts are that hold it on? So far I have only found one. The drawing I have shows two of them but it doesn't really show their exact location.
I still have to do the passenger side. Hopefully I can unbolt that carrier bearing without any problems.
Sucks about the oil leaks. It sucks doing a bunch of work and finding out the problem is still not fixed.
I remember this job. Those bracket bolts were a pain. I hated this job (did both sides) and hope I don't have to do it again.
Dialcaliper
Well-known member
Two tips:
Give it a good 2-3 days (or more) and spray the bolt 2-3 times a day with PB blaster, or another rust dissolver/penetrating oil. If it still won't come off, give it some more. It definitely makes a difference. You can also use heat if you're not patient.
The second only applies to studs and nuts, unfortunately not bolts like these. clean up the exposed end of the stud with a file or wire brush to get some of the surface rust. After you've done the PB Blaster thing and you're ready to remove it, smear the exposed threads with antiseize and it should come off - with rusty studs or nuts, the nut typically starts turning, and then jams up and galls on the rusty outer threads.
Give it a good 2-3 days (or more) and spray the bolt 2-3 times a day with PB blaster, or another rust dissolver/penetrating oil. If it still won't come off, give it some more. It definitely makes a difference. You can also use heat if you're not patient.
The second only applies to studs and nuts, unfortunately not bolts like these. clean up the exposed end of the stud with a file or wire brush to get some of the surface rust. After you've done the PB Blaster thing and you're ready to remove it, smear the exposed threads with antiseize and it should come off - with rusty studs or nuts, the nut typically starts turning, and then jams up and galls on the rusty outer threads.
Well, I finally got the old parking brake cables out and the new ones in. I didn't have to remove the heatshield but I did have to drop the rear carrier bearing a bit. With a long extension and the carrier bearing dropped I was able to get to the bolt in the previous drawings.
I still have to figure out a way to compress the hold down clamps for the parking brake cable and wheel speed sensor together so that I can thread the bolt that holds them. The ones giving me the most trouble are the ones that are bolted on top of the rear subframe member. There isn't very much room to get creative there.
It turns out that the bolts that were easiest to remove are the most difficult to get back on. I should've known.
I still have to figure out a way to compress the hold down clamps for the parking brake cable and wheel speed sensor together so that I can thread the bolt that holds them. The ones giving me the most trouble are the ones that are bolted on top of the rear subframe member. There isn't very much room to get creative there.
It turns out that the bolts that were easiest to remove are the most difficult to get back on. I should've known.
