The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Brake issues

QomTruise

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
5
Location
brewster, ny
So i'm the new owner of 935/1000, but my left front brake keeps having sticking issues, after replacing the caliper, caliper bracket, brakes, checking the slide pins, i'm running out of ideas. When looking at it, it looks like the brake pads are misaligned from the rotor, as one is against the rotor while the other has a gap between it and the rotor. If anyone has any opinions, it would be greatly appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
possibly a clog in the ABS or proportioning valve, you can also check the soft rubber line right before the caliper to see if it has collapsed.
 

strokin4dr

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,770
Location
Savannah, GA
+1 on a bad line.
 

QomTruise

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
5
Location
brewster, ny
OK I will definitely check out the brake lines, it looks like the ABS line has been removed by the previous owner. What would be the best way to test to make sure the line has gone bad?
 

injunjoe

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
13
Location
west babylon, New York
There is no real way to check but to change them. Some times the line gets cloged and can't back the pressure out. I would see if autozone or some auto parts store has a rubber line hose for the caliper. It is cheaper than just getting a ss one. When you put it in try to gravity bleed it first and then have someone pump thepedal and hold it down. Then crack the line; close and pump again until you see no air. Best of luck
 
Last edited:

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Quoting QomTruise:
So i'm the new owner of 935/1000, but my left front brake keeps having sticking issues, after replacing the caliper, caliper bracket, brakes, checking the slide pins, i'm running out of ideas. When looking at it, it looks like the brake pads are misaligned from the rotor, as one is against the rotor while the other has a gap between it and the rotor. If anyone has any opinions, it would be greatly appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



Quote:
it looks like the brake pads are misaligned from the rotor, as one is against the rotor while the other has a gap between it and the rotor



Picture of said phenomenon!

Also, was the rubber flex line replaced?
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
Quoting FlyingEagle:
Quoting QomTruise:
So i'm the new owner of 935/1000, but my left front brake keeps having sticking issues, after replacing the caliper, caliper bracket, brakes, checking the slide pins, i'm running out of ideas. When looking at it, it looks like the brake pads are misaligned from the rotor, as one is against the rotor while the other has a gap between it and the rotor. If anyone has any opinions, it would be greatly appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif



Quote:
it looks like the brake pads are misaligned from the rotor, as one is against the rotor while the other has a gap between it and the rotor



Picture of said phenomenon!

Also, was the rubber flex line replaced?



this^, id like to know, are you holding the rotor flat against the hub when you pull the wheel off, because when you pull the wheel off the rotor usually shifts a bit and does look like one has a gap and one is touching.


a good way to check for block/clog or collapse is to pull the caliper, leave the bleeder closed and try pushing in both caliper pistons at the same time. if you feel a stiffness or resistance then the line is probably collapsing or there is a block/clog somewhere.
 

QomTruise

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
5
Location
brewster, ny
nope, didn't replace any of the lines. Also, my friend who looked at it recommended i should add a washer behind the caliper bolts on the affected side but i was a bit skeptical, does this seem like a good idea on my friends part or does it sound like a brake line issue?
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
adding a washer will do nothing but make things worse. you don't put a bandaid on a car problem, you fix it properly or risk serious issues. try pushing in the caliper like i said. you also shouldn't just throw parts at a car. find the issue and address it right. throwing parts at a car when you don't know the issue can make things worse and only drains money from your pockets.

edit: Lets be honest, these cars love taking money from your pocket.

and here is oreillyauto. they have it, but not on shelf at least by me.
click
 
Last edited:

QomTruise

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
5
Location
brewster, ny
OK thank you I will look into replacing the line, that was my main concern after having the bracket replaced. the previous owner said the caliper was replaced, and the pistons were able to be pushed, so I didn't think it was needed to be replaced. I'm definitely not trying to just throw parts at it, I was just confused when my friend suggested this washer method after having replaced the bracket, and I was still thinking it could be an alignment issues of the pads of some sort.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Use two lug nuts to hold the rotor flush with the hub, before you take a picture of the top of the caliper with the pads clearly in view showing the "alignment" issue.

A washer between the caliper and knuckle attachment point ??

There is likely a lock washer on the bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle, but there will NEVER be a spacing washer in between those two parts, when there was not one to begin with.
We start to wonder if the rotors were "white box" and were cut wrong or something isn't flush up against something when you mention "tilt".
 

89Patches

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
723
Location
Ontario Canada
Sounds like the wheel bearing was replaced at some point, while being pressed out bent the mounting tabs. Happen to the rear on my car, bought already powder coated trailing arm with bent tabs. To correct the offset I used thin spacers.
 

Coltsfan

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
I worked on a 1g DSM one time that had no wheel bearing retainer clips on either side. The bearing, hub, and rotor were moving toward the center of the car on both sides. Some dipshit put washers behind the rotors to compensate.

Funny part is, they only had enough washers for a Gvr4...
 
Last edited:

desant78

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
732
Location
Clarksboro, NJ
OP

When the brake seized, try cracking the bleeder on that wheel without having anyone touch the brakes. If fluid shoots out, and the wheel is no longer seized, this would confirm it is a flex line/ABS module issue.

I'd replace the flex line ASAP if this is the case, and if then try the ABS set up if it is still happening. I've had this happen on two other cars before. Good luck!

Stainless steel braided lines and ABS delete are a nice upgrade so keep that in mind /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif aka spend more money!
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top