New clutch, won't disengage now

[91Vr4white]

Old clutch was worn out slipping ect. replaced clutch with an oem replacement. Had the flywheel machined with steps by a place that machines flywheels on big trucks. ( stepped clutches are common on big trucks). After install had no clutch pedal. Didn't undo any lines ect. Bleed the system new fluid feels little better and can shift but just barely. Have about an inch of actual clutch pedal and its hard as a rock. Any one have an idea what the issue could be? I've bleed the system over an over at the slave. You can watch the fork move inside the bell housing and it looks like its moving all the way. So I don't think it's the slave.

Thanks for any input.

 

[strokin4dr]

Is there any play in the clutch pedal itself? They are notorious for wearing out. Try pulling up on the pedal to see if there's any play.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Also, measure how much the slave is moving the arm. You may find that you need to adjust the rod under the dash to get it to do what you want. Assuming the flywheel was stepped correctly and you're getting correct movement on the slave it should work.

If you're not getting much movement on the slave, you either have a master issue, a master adjustment issue or a worn out clutch pedal assembly that needs work.

 

[91Vr4white]

Ok I adjusted the master cyl rod today. I have this thing all the way out and it didn't make any difference. Also I can push the slave in by hand like the bypass bleeder is not blocked. Bad master?

 

[Brunoboy]

Did you replace the pivot ball and fork? Did you shim the pivot ball so that the fork is set properly? You're gunna have to pull the trans again to do it correctly.

 

[JCorbo25]

check travel of the slave cylinder under the car, make sure your hydraulics are working properly. Have a friend press in and hold the clutch while you watch movement to make sure it's not leaking (losing pressure).

I'd also check the pedal assembly for wear, I know JNZ Tuning has a rebuild kit for ~$99 that i plan on doing.

Otherwise, did you replace the fork and throw-out bearing? How about the pivot ball?

 

[91Vr4white]

Disregard last post. Did the adjustments. Had to go almost all the way in before I blocked the bleeder inside the master and could not push in the slave. Threaded it back out until I could push the slave in and it was 10 times worse. Clutch pedal was phyisically an inch off the floor and I couldn't get it into gear at all. Threaded it almost all the way out and back to what I had before. I feel like the master may be bypassing on the inside. Is there a way to check this? Where can I block the master off easily?

 

[Brunoboy]

If you did a clutch job without replacing the fork and pivot ball then it's your problem.... The thing needs to be shimmed with washers to make sure it has enough travel when the pedal is pushed in. If it isn't even close to the pressure plate than you aren't even going to be able to engage or disengage and wreck the trans.

 

[Brunoboy]

Read click

 

[91Vr4white]

I think this may be my problem thank you. My fork does bottom out in the bell housing. Ill have to get it on a rack tomorrow and see for sure.

 

[91Vr4white]

It does release the clutch as it is drive able but just barely.

 

[Brunoboy]

Just because its drive able doesn't mean it doesn't need to be shimmed. I had the same issue before, it was fixed after swapping a OEM Slave and OEM master. Are yours oem or not? If not, it maybe the culprit as the oem ones have a longer throw.

 

[slugsgomoo]

Don't shim it, replace the fork and ball, and make sure everything works right. The shim is a bandaid and if you don't need it you'll overextend the fingers on the pressure plate and nuke your clutch (seen it done).

It sounds like you have hydraulic problems if you can collapse the slave by hand with no air in the system.

 

[EMX5636]

First part is correct, although I think some pressure plates can afford a thin shim if checked/adjusted properly.

You are supposed to be able to push the slave in by hand with a properly adjusted system. There is a bleed hole in the master cylinder so it doesn't keep pressure against the throwout bearing. If you thread too far in the master cylinder, then you can block this hole. The pedal will do funny things, sometimes get higher and higher off the floor because you take away the "self adjusting" portion of the system.

 

[Brunoboy]

Even with a new fork and pivot ball it may need shimming. I know Full Function aka FFTEC when they rebuilt my trans and used brand new parts, it had one washer for shimming.

 

[DSSA]

^^ How did this mean that it was *needed*?

The only time one is *needed* (I'm proud of Justin using "afford" up a couple of posts) with everything else working correctly is if someone went gorilla with the pivot and torqued it to the point where it recessed into the case.

"Band Aid" is the only term that actually fits shimming a pivot. You see people claiming that they "needed" it with clutch "X". I have yet to see anyone prove that any clutch required it, up through ACT 3200s with everything else being correct on the car.

 

[Brunoboy]

I dont know, it's what I've picked up. Mine was done by one of the most reputable shops in NorCal Full Function Dave aka Pneumo on Dsmtuners.