Stock turbo pistons (galant, not Eclipse!) would also be OK. In 1989-1991 for EU vehicles the 4G67 DOHC, 4G63 DOHC and 4G63 DOHC turbo had the same crankshaft and conrods - only failures of these stock conrods i've seen (on "budget" engines) came from messed up software or way too high revs...
I'm using stock VR4 pistons + 4G67 cylinder head (smaller rooftops) which results in a static compression of 12.5bar. Outlet valves should be replaced with evo ones.
Try to use the 4G67 inlet manifold as well as they are cheaply available here in austria or germany and have the lowest air volume of the 4G6x manifolds fitting onthe heads with the big intake runners.
Use OEM bearings (measure them out for the upper end of the range from the workshop manual) or ACL ones. Im using ACL as they were in stock when i built my engine and we also never had problems with them...
Camshafts MUST be from/for a turbo engine - yes, the engine also runs on N/A cams, but perform like crap as you have way too much valve overlap. I'm using cams from a very late JDM VR4. All cams up to evo 7/8 (all engines without MIVEC) would fit the head - so have a look what you can find. evo 4-8 are a bit tricky to install and need to be dialed in with adjustable cam gears! But with the relatively small 16G they are not really first choice.
For ECU try to get an evo7/8 one + evo 7-9 MAF. These MAFs have a much higher measuring rate and better airflow.
Stock evo fuel pumps are also easily available as used parts. If you can't find them, contact me - i can get them from rallye basecars, so the pumps were replaced directly from new cars with ~10-20kms
oil filter: just don't use the mz690070 - that's the cheap one which replaces the japan made filter for most of the passenger car engines in europe. Use the MD356000 one, that's the one for evo 1-9, its also a bit shorter than the filter normally used for the galant so it gives you more space for your downpipe.
timing belt: get rid of the small one by removing the balance shafts. makes the engine a bit more responsive and you have one less timing belt that could fail. use the stock MD326059 one - we never had problems with the stock ones, even on tuned engines. As long as you don't use stiffer valve springs and high lift cams you won't need any kevlar belt (we've hat two HKS timing belts failed after only a few 100 kms btw... but none of the OEM ones...)
Try to avoid the XD belts - they are manufactured by external companies in europe, not in japan. The XD replacement for this belt isn't available any more IIRC - so this might be obsolete by now...
get new engine support bearings - the stock evo ones are ideal and cheaply available. especially front + rear bearings WILL fial if you keep your old ones. Check the rear support arm which connects to the bearing - they tend to break sometimes.
clutch: 4-pad exedy sports metal is OK for FWD. Even with 205 semi-slicks the tires will be the weakest link. Never had problems with this clutch (if interested: it will be available in a few weeks as i'll need a 225mm one)
Brakes:
Front: 2-pot from Sigma/Outlander/many others wth 296mm disks and proper pads (pagid rs 4-2 blue)
rear: remove ABS unit for full brake pressure on the rear calipers and use stock pads (with upgraded pads it will get a bit tail-happy under braking- i liked it with the semi-slicks and drove this setup but wouldn't recommend it!)
You will need 16" wheels to fit over these brakes!
I was running such a setup for over 2 years in my E33 FWD and i'm currently rebuilding a dynamic 4 which will get that engine. Boost on summer setup 1,4 bar, winter 1,0 bar (still way too much for FWD + snow...).
I had ~250hp on summer setup but way more torque than some other engines with 300hp+. boost builtup began at ~1800-1900rpm, >1bar @ 3000rpm. Even with the very long gearbox i used (1996 Lancer CB4) the car was still very responsive and quick on mountain roads and i managed ~10l/100kms @ 200kph. I never tried the top speed - 280kph are enough to sh*t your pants in a 1990s car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I might have some parts left after the engine swap into the 4WD car - contact me if you are interested. If your Galant has ECS suspension you can get parts from my car - I replaced all 4 dampers during the last 3 years!
Where are you from in austria? Maybe you can have a look at my E33 turbo for some details - i'm living near Salzburg.