Controlling Cyclone Intake butterfly valve via FPR.

[citymunky]

I know Cyclone Intakes have been covered over and over an over again. I spend the last 2 nights reading threads all over the "interwebs" about the cyclone and vacuum routing, however I haven't been able to find the answer I need. I have my Cyclone installed on the block, and before I drop the motor in the bay I want to make sure the vacuum hoses are all taking care of. I wouldn't enjoy messing with vacuum hose in the engine bay since I going to have A/C, and you guys should should get the idea about the space I wouldn't have behind the Intake Manifold.

I'm plan to control the switching point of the butterfly valve using the FPR and I'm wanted to see if anybody knew the proper vacuum path? I found a ton of vacuum diagrams, however most include a Hobbs switches, or waste gates. I found the factory OEM JDM and it's English translation. I can't see to find a vacuum diameter showing the FPR controlling cyclone.

Thanks for any inputs or help.

 

[curtis]

I uploaded the picture below years ago.... maybe a decade ago.

I know picture sucks but this as been debated back and forth... some say it needs to be rpm based like factory but I always liked boost based which is load responsive. 3500 rpms don't always cut it. When the bitch goes into boost I wanted it open to feed the cylinders not wait till it was at the preset rpm. You need a pocket full of factory vacuum lines. I just like the factory ones best then a normally open mitsubishi vacuum solenoid and a normal closed one, a hobbs, a little white vacuum canister from the cyclone or a montero, both have a check valve in it. I also added a light to mine so I knew it was open. The hobbs I used was some emissions crap on a old subaru wagon. It gave me zero problems over 5 + years. and activated at I think 3psi. But every car is different and dependent on mods and turbo size you may want it smaller or larger. Also the mirages have a little bracket on the firewall that will hold all these parts.



You could hit any junkyard in America and probably score all this for 5 bucks.

 

[curtis]

If you need any help or can't make out the drawing send me a PM and I see if I can find it on the old harddrive for you and I'll post it up here.

 

[citymunky]

I have that pic

I have everything beside the Normally Closed switch and a hobbs switch. It's funny you state that you like the switch off to be controlled via boost rather then RPM signal. Everybody else says the opposite.


Here are the links just on here I read
Cyclone Install Completed
ECMlink plus Cyclone
Cyclone intake
jdm gvr4 Cyclone intake manifold or stock us-spec intake manifold?
JDM Galant owners with cyclone manifolds - need specific picture


And here is another diagram with hobbs switch

Quoting curtis:
I uploaded the picture below years ago.... maybe a decade ago.

I know picture sucks but this as been debated back and forth... some say it needs to be rpm based like factory but I always liked boost based which is load responsive. 3500 rpms don't always cut it. When the bitch goes into boost I wanted it open to feed the cylinders not wait till it was at the preset rpm. You need a pocket full of factory vacuum lines. I just like the factory ones best then a normally open mitsubishi vacuum solenoid and a normal closed one, a hobbs, a little white vacuum canister from the cyclone or a montero, both have a check valve in it. I also added a light to mine so I knew it was open. The hobbs I used was some emissions crap on a old subaru wagon. It gave me zero problems over 5 + years. and activated at I think 3psi. But every car is different and dependent on mods and turbo size you may want it smaller or larger. Also the mirages have a little bracket on the firewall that will hold all these parts.



You could hit any junkyard in America and probably score all this for 5 bucks.

 

[citymunky]

I just found this diagram, I think this might be what I need. Supposedly the FPR was control via a Keydiver chip.

Has anybody use this to switch the valves before?

 

[ercp98]

hi
i have that set up. it is controlled by a keydiver chip.
it activates the butterfly at 4100rpm.

 

[Lancer99]

I've heard that the first gen intake manifold flows better the cyclone one. Anyone know anything about them compared next to each other?

 

[cheekychimp]

The difference between the two is negligible about 1 CFM in the uppermost rpm range so there really isn't much to be gained by using a 1G manifold in my opinion. On the other hand people have documented healthy increases in torque in the lower rpm range through using the cyclone which for a street driven car is what it is all about.

People have made decent power on the stock manifold and I think that this possibly is where the concerns over the Cyclone come in. Some engine builders said they wouldn't trust the butterfly system at higher power levels because if anything came loose, it would go straight into the valves. Fair point but the same could be said of the throttle plate. I really don't think it's a valid argument.

The Cyclone is old school technology and it may possibly have become redundant with the development of the later 2G heads where velocity was increased. Nonetheless it works and works well and the benefits of low rpm torque far outweigh any potential disadvantages created by 1 CFM less flow and additional parts that could go wrong.

For the record I now have the larger AMG cyclone manifold mated with a port matched EVO III (2G) head.