Clear coat oxidation

When I purchased 76, it had clear coat oxidation on the hood and roof. I went out and got a CF hood and used touchup paint on the roof. Now the oxidation has suddenly appeared at the top of the passenger door without any warning. I can touch this up for sure....but how can I stop this from taking over the entire car, or will it?

Thanks!

 

[Galantvr4559]

Ok well is clear just dull and hazy? If so then polish the car with a buffer and that should help and make it last a lot longer.

 

[Galantvr4559]

Pictures would be best. So I can see whats going on. I am a body and paint guy so I work on that stuff on the daily.

 

[mikus]

+1 for pics. Here's an example of bad issues with clear (see hood & rooflines) How does yours compare

 

[mpt72]

that looks good compared to mine.

 

I'll get some pics up when I can. Mine looked like that pic until I swapped the hood out and painted the roof.

I don't think this is a buff out situation. Is oxidation like cancer?

 

[GSX_TC]

Just keep it out of the sun and that will help out alot

 

[GVR-4]

I believe that's the clear coat wearing off, not oxidation. It will need to be resprayed. You can't buff clear coat that's not there.

 

[maroonmetallic]

I believe the phrase you are looking for is, "you can't polish a turd." /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[GSX_TC]

^^ like from that movie Christine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

 

The clear has probably peeled away intirely, what is left is the base coat. I was tought that this basicaly has to be re-sprayed. However I have found that it can be fixed with care. Wet sand with about 800 grit being VERY careful not to rub through. Then try to feather the good clear sarounding the area, with the base. Where the clear has gone white needs to be rubbed away intirely. Then usual paint prep and re clear the roof or whereever.

Here are some photos of a roof I saved. I put the heater on in the garage for a few hours, then wiped clean with prepsol and sprayed about 4 coats with about 10 minuts between them with duplicolour "clear plastic"(aerosol).

Hope that helps mate.

 

Thanks all....yes it is clear coat peel. Mine looks just like Justin's pic at the top of the passenger doors but I also painted the roof which looks great. I was thinking about going with some 800 grit and feathering the clear over. When the roof looked like that, I sanded it down with 400 grit and then put new base coat then clear coat. Seems like all that isn't necessary though. This is very strange because the clear coat peel at the top of the passenger doors happened within a few months of painting the roof. This is why I am wondering if clear coat peel "spreads".

 

[Galantvr4559]

The clear coat will continue its peeling unless u either feather the clear out reclear or just sand roof and repaint. Over time if u do a quick cheap fix problems with eventually come back. The first reason why paint fails is bad preparation. Ur best bet is to sand affected areas with 400 grit wet or dry and rebase and clear. Its alot but its what will fix those issues. If u got any other questions u can pm me or call/text me at 3073999803. Names Bryan

 

You don't necissarily have to re-base if your careful, thoughit is very hard not to rub through when feathering the clear coat out.
I used 800 and had to be VERY careful not to rub through as the exposed base had been so for a few years and was badly oxidised.
The roof on the car I did now looks better than the rest of the car lol.

If it has freshly peeled, use 600 and lots of water to feather out the clear, just be very careful not to rub through the base colour. then you need to mask with a soft edge about 10 inches down the pillars and right on the roof mouldings. Then you will need to rough the surrounding good clear with white (white in colour) automotive scotch upto your masking. That is so any new clear upto the masking wont peel again. once dry and masking is removed you can use a cuting polish to blend it. That will remove the scatching (tooth) that you had made with the scotch.

Haha I'm not good and explaining things but hope that helps.

Don't forget to clean just before you paint with prepsol, or something similar.

 

Quoting Galantvr4559:
The clear coat will continue its peeling unless u either feather the clear out reclear or just sand roof and repaint. Over time if u do a quick cheap fix problems with eventually come back. The first reason why paint fails is bad preparation. Ur best bet is to sand affected areas with 400 grit wet or dry and rebase and clear. Its alot but its what will fix those issues. If u got any other questions u can pm me or call/text me at 3073999803. Names Bryan



The roof is just fine now after repainting though. It is now just the area above the doors. I might give you a buzz on the rest.

I am wondering if I was just so focused on and happy that I got the roof painted up nice that I didn't notice the tops of the doors.

Here is a pic.

 

Quoting Justin_Cosgrove:
You don't necissarily have to re-base if your careful, thoughit is very hard not to rub through when feathering the clear coat out.
I used 800 and had to be VERY careful not to rub through as the exposed base had been so for a few years and was badly oxidised.
The roof on the car I did now looks better than the rest of the car lol.

If it has freshly peeled, use 600 and lots of water to feather out the clear, just be very careful not to rub through the base colour. then you need to mask with a soft edge about 10 inches down the pillars and right on the roof mouldings. Then you will need to rough the surrounding good clear with white (white in colour) automotive scotch upto your masking. That is so any new clear upto the masking wont peel again. once dry and masking is removed you can use a cuting polish to blend it. That will remove the scatching (tooth) that you had made with the scotch.

Haha I'm not good and explaining things but hope that helps.

Don't forget to clean just before you paint with prepsol, or something similar.



No pretty clear m8. Thanks for all of your thoughts.

 

Quote:
Here is a pic.




Bro, you won't need to re base with that, just use whatever (probably 600 grit) sand paper you feel is right and wet rub off any white (white because it's lifting) and feather it out. If you know how to do it right I would just use a good aerosol clear. No point speending much if it's a dd. Lol if you take a look on some honda forums there are how to threads on this.

 

Can't stand how sometimes there is quotes next to people's names and sometimes there isn't lol, but anyways it isn't a DD but I have all of the paint here. I can rebase just as easily with no hassle.

What do you mean by feathering? Feathering the end of the sanding onto the adjacent paint areas or feathering the actual paint work itself.

 

Quote:
What do you mean by feathering? Feathering the end of the sanding onto the adjacent paint areas or feathering the actual paint work itself.



I mean blending the good clear with the base where you're going to re clear, feathering means removing a step. Also wether you re base or just re clear because you aren't going to be painting the whole car you should use a soft edge masking. What that does is stop a step being created where the masking was. just rol the first 1/4 of the masking tape over before you stick it down, that way a flap is created and lets the edge blend itself. Are you going to try and save the base? or just re base and clear?

 

This is what I thought you meant. So it's in how I mask, not trying to transition a smooth surface with even finer grit sandpaper after sanding with 600/800 grit sandpaper.

I could just as easily BC/CC in this case.