It would be awesome if this car was at the Shootout representin for all the Galant VR4's out there.

I will try and make it out there next year. For now I can hit up BIR, Rock Falls or Cedar falls for some full passes this year. Stuff is coming together for 2013.

Long time no post, I am still trying, 2014 was a wash. But things are looking up for 2015.

If all goes well we should be up in BIR for PG #1. We have put a few miles on the motor and at WG pressure everything is looking really good. I plan to take it out for a 3rd gear hit at WG pressure tomorrow then load it on the trailer, and leave work asap on Friday. We need to finish the tune at the track so their will be some un eventfull 3rd gear runs on Saturday, then all we need is a 1.5 short time out of the thing then try for a full pass. ATM I don't care what it runs as long as it's going in the right direction. My end goal is to get a high 8, but in the 9s for this weekend would make me happy. Also with the exhaust cam timing fixed and the new super smooth Competion Clutch triple disk the power graph is looking better as well compared to 2014. And we switched to RAT k116, oxogenated 116 octane fuel. I am tired of head gasket issues and pushing my FIC Bluemax 2150 injectors to 90+ percent duty cycle. At 25psi on gas we were down to 55% duty, lol.

Nice!!

What fuel were you running prior?
Also what clutch?

Looking forward to seeing you run again!

I had been running e98 for the last 4 years. And I had a quarter master twin disk for the last 5 years.

John good to see this car back on track !! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
Good luck on Friday !!

431 will likely not make any passes this year - Family events have kept me from working on the car! might as well take the rest of the year off from racing and perhaps build the car over the next winter.

Broken synchro springs made it a short weekend. We managed 1 full pass, 11.8@130mph not setting records, but this was with only 22psi of boost. I will get the trans fixed and back out asap.

Good luck man, it's pretty hillarous how between 1062 and 431...we just can't get our sh*t together! so much for battle for the record...it's more of a battle to actually make a full pass with either car anymore now that they are so crazy modded. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Where to start....

So the fuel change was a good thing for the car, off E98 and onto RAT K16. ATM we are at 72-74% duty cycle @42psi and log wise the car is happy. It has not lifted the head, even though its spendy I now have some street miles on the car and built up the confidence I need to get back to the track and try and try to better our 2011 peak of [email protected].... that seems like a lifetime ago now but we are still after it.

At the end of the 2014 season we hot lapped the car and hurt the trans, and also burnt a hole in the #4 exhaust runner into the coolant passage on the center divider, and we had major clutch slip issues with the Quarter master twin disk, and we broke an ass load of rear axles along the way.

So pulled the head and valve, welded and reinstalled, ordered a Competition Clutch Triple disk and DSS stage 5 rear axels. I forgot about the trans over the year and fixed the head issue, then at PG in 2015 with the Rocket boys holding up the show we figured out the trans was hurt, and we were limited to WG boost pressure, wiring issue to BCS. But the final pass of the day was a 11.8@130 with only 21psi.

Now onto this year... after helping 2 local guys with trans builds I was trying to figure out how I could make this syncro mitsu parts trans work. I am still in the boat of no dog box, even the face plated trans at list price is out of my sights. I also worry I am well beyond what the stock gears can handle and putting a ton of money into faceplating does not make sense.

Also we were are having a hard time to get the car off the line at a sticky track, so the tall EVO 3 1st gear and 26" tall slicks proved to much. We were not able to up the power at the line enough to get the tires to spin in fear of breaking stock driveline parts, we adjusted the rear suspension to limit weight transfer, but with the hurt trans, low boost, and limited track time its hard to say if that will help us.

So over the winter I ended up using a Stock DSM 1st gear, but with reving to 9800rpm the 1/2 split is not ideal but working atm, and with a hole stack of fresh synchros I also shimmed the trans super tight, I found some info on how much more pre load I should be putting in based on HP level.

We also finalized our plans to make this a 4 speed trans to reduce weight of the input shaft and make less work for the synchros. So all said and done we were able to reduce the weight of what needs to change speed on shifts by 17%. Its a little harder to get into reverse but the up shifts have been super smooth, I also installed a trans temp gauge so we can make sure we have enough trans temp and not to much to over work the fluid. This was a easy modification and I was able to eliminate everything to do with 5th gear. So the trans is a little easier to work on now, lol.

I also picked up a dash cam and made a mount for the harness bar and we now have a little bit of good footage from inside the car and I am excited to get some footage at the track with it also.

HP wise IDK where we are at, but at 42PSI the car goes from 60mph-130mph in 4.15 seconds with a passanger. The numbers are looking good and over the next few weeks I will get updated pics and some hard data from the track.

I also raced my buddy Bill in his 69 chevelle with a 800hp BBC and a TH400 trans. He did a 130' long burn out, but pulled to my front bumper, then I shifted into 2nd and drove around him, with a 275lb passanger, this was at 38psi peak bleeding off to 32psi. still working on the ECB stuff, which is better now and around 42psi.


~John

Does anyone make stronger axle parts or do you have to swap in a GTO/Cobra IRS?

I picked up the drive shaft shop stage 5 rear axles, they are more then strong enough. So the next step will be the 3000gt rear diff and DSS shortens the axles and puts on the right ends for this. That's a over the winter project. I will get another update with the pics and an updated mod list this weekend.

~John

Is there a reason you're set on sticking with a manual trans? Seems like an auto box would make life a lot easier.

Quoting Galantvr41062:
Where to start....



Thanks for the detailed update. Looking forward to some footage and hopefully a new record.

Beastly car man! cant wait to see it in action.

Good morning, I am John a grateful believer in Jesus in recovery of alcoholism and struggle with worldly things and lust.

I still have the car and have driven it and tried to race it and broken many things over the years. I have not ran or gone quicker than the 1/4 mile passes all those years ago. The passion for me, our group for this car has been analog manual transaxle.

I was able to give my daughter Liana (12yr old) a ride in the car up to the All Mitsu Cookout and she said did great and we had not been to car show in a few years.

I am looking into some winter projects that should help the car be more reliable in the drivetrain.

I have all the parts to build a PPG dogbox with the center diff spool and Quafe front LSD diff, KDN lockout shifter and strain gauge shift knob. I have a Boostin Tcase, again. This time its a couple steps up with the billet mid housing and Frontline fab tcase brace/bearing end cap.

I have driven the car a few times late this year and have been working on some little things and refining what's there, taking a new look at a few things.

~John

A couple snap shots of the car from 2018 to 2021. Some street miles, some drag strip adventures.



A few engine bay updates and modified engine stand to make transaxle work a little easier.



And some of the goods: I have the full PPG dog box gear set (1-4), center diff spool, Quafe LSD front diff, Boostin billet bearing plate, White Shed billet 1/2 shift fork, Boostin stage 2 tcase with Front Line Fab tcase brace, modified bell housing (welded aluminum plate over casting seam that cracks with strain gauge shifting) and bored out input shaft hole, Full rebuild for the Competition clutch triple disk with the correct input shaft spline count.







I have some more photos and the more recent work and updates to the build. I will try and update the build thread living up the title I suppose.

~John

Here is a shot of the aluminum plate welded onto the bell housing. I need to do this to the bellhousing for the dogbox project also.


The last couple trans failures: the input shaft end bearing has failed twice. I get that these were used bearing but it shows a down side to shimming the trans so tight. After sitting a while (like a year or forgetting to lubricate the bearings fully on final assembly) It was dry start and after 2min of idle time the bearing started making a lot of noise and heat.


I had made solid front lower control arm bushings and after a while needed to shim them. I had noticed looseness again and removed the bushings and added material to the outside diameter and cleaned up the clamp mounts and re-installed them.



A lot going on here:

I updated the vacuum line setup with nylon push lock stuff. I fabricated a small manifold for the MAP sensor and boost gauge fed by a -6 hose off the plenum.

I cut a hole in the dash and mounted the GPS speedo, remote mounted the oil pressure and fuel pressure senders.

I had issues with the MAP sensor not reporting pressure properly and very erratic. I fabricated a test manifold and used 2 other known good gauges to calibrate the MAP in the EMS up to 60psi and within 2%. Next steps is to verify ignition timing and go back out and get some Draggy data and see were the car is at. I did up the MBC a bit, the last outing was 42psi and this time should be 45-47psi.

I had some input shaft end bearing problems after the car sat for a bit and on the final assemble of the trans last year I did not lubricate the bearings enough and they ran dry and started to burn up. I also re worked the front lower control arm bushings and added material and cleaned up the subframe/clamp and now all the forward/backward slop is gone, again.

The other build thread on MitsuStyle is having hosting issues so I will be continuing the update here. My next round will be some videos and plans coming into winter. As always if you have questions about anything let me know, I see a lot of photos are no longer visible here.

~John

I drove the car up to work Saturday and installed the Boostin tcase and the aluminum drive shaft (replaced the front 2 stock sections). The rear piece was modified to have the dsm and 3000gt pinion bolt pattern. All the U joints in the shaft are 1310 size now.

I need to update the driveshaft loop, removing and installing the tcase is difficult at the moment. I did trim some subframe to help put the tcase on.

I don't remember the exact weight difference but the aluminum shaft is much lighter then the stock unit.

The stock tcase I had on the car was staring to eat it self and had a lot of rolling resistance once warmed up.

I put in the correct amount of some BradPenn gear oil to run in the tcase, after another no major load drive I will change the fluid to Redline shock proof heavy.

I had the KDN shifter clamped to a bench and was fiddling with the lockout mechanism and figured out how it works and the adjustments I needed to make, final setup will be when it's bolted into the car.

~John