Suggestions/Opions on running thicker oil

[4Grim]

I have a couple friends and read and researched on possibly running a different viscosity oil than what I am currently using which is 10w30 sythentic oil.

My motor is a JDM stock bottom end "RS" with a built cylinder head with 272 cams. My aim is for about 400-450awhp for this motor..so no crazy hardcore build anywhere in the near future. Currently running a FP Red turbo with all the supporting mods and going DSMlink V3 very soon.

What is some of your opinions on running a thicker oil like a 20w50 oil?

I also live in Florida which plays a factor especially in the summer months..but #1948 is barely driven especially in the summer since I have no A/C in it. Most of its road time is during the fall, winter and spring months.

 

[prove_it]

Run as thick as you want. Just watch your oil pressure. Thick oil flows slower and builds higher pressure.

 

[turbowop]

I've been running Mobil 1 15w50 for years in 1051. Might be tough to churn that stuff in cold weather, but I don't drive my car during the winter. For what it's worth I'm still on the stock bottom end as well.

 

[ercp98]

i have used 20/50 on my car for years too.
i just give the car extra time to warm up during winter
time.
stock bottom end, 150k so far.

 

[prove_it]

Suppose I should have mentioned that I use Rotella 15w-40 with no issues. I have all the proper oil port mods too help keep pressure in check. Cold weather it really turns slow. I've started it in -20* with E85, talk about a long hard crank. Also I have a rebuilt bottom end with ACL bearings with the extra .001" oil clearance.

Note: if you do plan on running this in the cold, I personally think that wiring up a momentary push button for the clutch so that your not dry cranking the trust bearing is a really good idea, especially with a heavier clutch.

 

[4Grim]

Coldest it gets in the winter in Florida is MAYBE low 30's.

I just wanted to get opinions and suggestions on going with a thicker oil. I am aware that oil pressure will be higher, just seeing if there is any cons with the higher oil pressure.

I am looking to try 20w50 Valvoline VR1 oil for my upcoming oil change on the VR4.

Any brands that some of your recommened?

 

[manikbastrd]

My turbo builder is emphatic about not going to high on oil weights. He has been doing it for years and felt very confident that going too thick on your oil will slow the flow through the turbo and cause earlier turbo failure. Now, having said that, he is very old school, and I think that if you FULLY warm up a thicker oil, it wouldn't be a problem really. Then again I am not a turbo builder by trade...

 

[G]

I thought you were supposed to run 20w /40 in the summer anyway? I could have sworn that's what mitsu recommends.

 

[prove_it]

10w-40 by mitsu standards circa 1992. 20w-40 wasn't readily available back then like 10w-40 was.

Not sure about thick oil having slow flow through a turbo, but kinda makes sense as the drain is just gravity fed.

Higher oil pressures can cause turbo seals to leak past and burn oil, also could cause engine seals to push the lips out and have a drastic oil leak. This happens around the 100+psi mark and during long exposure to the pressure. Spikes are not a big deal but long term use of high pressure against a seal will either push the seal out of the hole, or invert the lip, either way its a leak. More likely with older worn seals than new fresh seals. I did have an issue once with the oil pump gear seal popping out constantly, once I opened up the oil relief port in the oil filter housing it finally stopped popping out. I did suspect that the 15w-40 at high pressure was the culprit.

 

[BpuVR4]

rotella 15w40 or valvoline 20w50 until the temperature drops below 40deg and then i switch to rotella T6 5w40. I got a killer deal on two jugs of royal purple 15w40 for $9 each, so used that the past two hot temp oil changes, but will be going back to rotella or vr1 next time around.

 

[diambo4life]

You can run 20w-40, 20w-50 as long as the tempts are above 32degF.

 

[losermakesgood]

I've been running Valvoline VR1 20w50 for a while now. I let the car warm up even on hot days and don't drive it in the winter. No problems yet with pressure or anything.

 

[gvr4ever]

I've read the heavier racing oils should pretty much just be used for racing. A see a lot of people only run the heavier stuff in warmer weather. For the street, 10w 30 is fine. If you have a heavy foot and hang out at high RPMs, you might want to go heavier, but if you aren't planing on aggressive driving, you will probably not get any benefit from it.

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting prove_it:
Suppose I should have mentioned that I use Rotella 15w-40 with no issues. I have all the proper oil port mods too help keep pressure in check. Cold weather it really turns slow. I've started it in -20* with E85, talk about a long hard crank. Also I have a rebuilt bottom end with ACL bearings with the extra .001" oil clearance.

Note: if you do plan on running this in the cold, I personally think that wiring up a momentary push button for the clutch so that your not dry cranking the trust bearing is a really good idea, especially with a heavier clutch.



minus the e85 this is what i use rotella 15w40 and a push button start. 2200lbs pp

 

[4Grim]

Thanks guys for the input...its greatly appreciated.

I am going to try the Valvoline VR1 20w50 for this next oil change. I have to warm up the car anyways because I have eliminated the entire FIAV assembly. Average temp during out winters is 60 degrees which I plan to drive the car more often compared to the summer months.

 

[djtoad]

click

Its a good read at the least.

 

[4Grim]

Thanks for the link djtoad...definitely a good read and info! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif

 

[Wookalar]

A lot of turbo builders recommend thicker oil, as do a lot of old school gearheads. Years ago I switched from mobil1 10/30 or 10/40 to valvoline 20/50 (both brands syntheic) and saw a visible increase in oil pressure at idle on a autometer oil pressure gauge tapped at the ofh.

I also ported my oil filter housing relief hole since I have no balance shaft belt. There are threads on here about this.

If you go to a thicker oil that has not had the zinc and other lubrication minerals removed, such as valvoline 20/50 synth you will need to ditch your cat converter because the thicker oil over time can clog it.

A good forum to read up on oil is bob is the oil guy. Or just do some searching for brad pen oil, or zinc oil, and you will get all kinds of info.

For FL climate I think you will be fine w the thicker oil.

 

[paul j]

What would be max limits of ingredients in oil that would harm the cat? And what rwhp would you want to start using the highlighted in yellow (fp link) high zinc oils?

 

[prove_it]

Anything over 800 ppm. If you read the charts you'll see the typical car oils have around this, even less. For a journal bearing turbo, you want to be in the 1200 and higher range. Zinc and phosphorous are all that really matter.