so I noticed something funny the other day.......if I moved my ecu the motor would sometimes rev us and usually shut off.......I traced the problem down to the smaller of the three plugs.....if I push one way I could hear the mpi rela click and the motor would shut off...if I pushed the other way nothing......I pulled on all the wires with it pushed to one side and nothing happened......the ecu internally looks ok to me.......is it possible to have a bad plug???
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anyone near charlotte,nc have a eeprom burner and spare chip laying around? My ostrich v1 had an error during a firmware update and is bricked.....but i'd really like my car to be running and dont feel like waiting a couple of weeks to RMA and get a new ostrich in (while my car is immobile).........so I was curious if anyone "local" could potentially burn me a speed density chip?
just fyi if anyone has ever considered buying a product from moates.... particularly the ostrich (real time ecu emulator) do it.......if for nothing else than their customer service....absolutely awesome people. Long story short I had an older version 1 ostrich and when I tried to update the firmware it bricked...I contacted Moates and that day had a response, I now have ordered a new version 2 (better) ostrich and will be reimbursed when I RMA my old unit....they also offered to fix my old one free of charge.....awesome people with a great product :-D
So while I am waiting on my ostrich to get here I decided to work on my other projects, such as mounting that huge muffler (b/c I want the car to be quiet) without it looking to ricey........so basically I just cut off the gigantic tip that was like 10 inches long....right now it still has the inner and outer portion but eventually I will just weld a plate there to make it look a little better (or maybe cut the outer portion off and paint the "tip")........I also decided to raise my intercooler and oil cooler a little since they were a little to close to the ground for my liking.....lastly I played with the idea of twin charging........my buddy has a supercharger off his 3000gt that I have been trying to sell...but I think it'd look good on my galant :-D.
I got my ostrich v2 in today....wow that thing is small compared to the v1....it also worked immediately with the jackal software with no issues...very happy :-D
So since I am cheap I went to pull-a-part and found a f-body running a 3" exhaust and got it (that and a hacksaw were about $20)...cut it into a few pieces and turned it into a galant exhaust :-D...I still need about 3' of it to connect to my downpipe...if anyone near charlotte has some for cheap let me know...otherwise its off to stock car steel or the junkyard again......
So since I am cheap I went to pull-a-part and found a f-body running a 3" exhaust and got it (that and a hacksaw were about $20)...cut it into a few pieces and turned it into a galant exhaust :-D...I still need about 3' of it to connect to my downpipe...if anyone near charlotte has some for cheap let me know...otherwise its off to stock car steel or the junkyard again......
*update* for anyone running or wanting to run speed density...when you wire in the output of the MAP sensor it goes to the green wire with yellow stripe..........note galants are special and have two of them...it is the one that does not have any red on it at all (I had it wired to the wrong one at first and it wouldnt run...the red dots were small and faint)............just fyi.......also my car idles extremely smooth now....now for the fun part of tuning........
*update* Took the car on its first highway run and first time on speed density....I am very happy with SD and look forward to tuning with it, I think it is going to be awesome, the car has never idled so nicely lol.......anyhow I took the car for a drive and of course my dirty fuel tank clogged up the fuel sock again but I was bored and thought i'd upload another scatter plot showing the difference between a clean and dirty fuel sock in the same session (just about 15 minutes apart)......also I will include a screen shot of the data logger in jacakl
On a side note I yanked out the narrow band stock 02 and wired the 0-5V output of my wideband to pin 4 and now I can datalog and tune with the wideband in jackal :-D
On a side note I yanked out the narrow band stock 02 and wired the 0-5V output of my wideband to pin 4 and now I can datalog and tune with the wideband in jackal :-D
*update*...car is soooo much quieter with the full exhaust!!! :-D....its awesome..........so is jackal.....the tuning process is pretty straight forward and everything is in one nice little "package" if you will........below I will post 3 scatter plots of three different tunes back to back (tuning process is....set up logging parameters, drive, review logs , change fueling, hit upload and try and again)...I am still perfecting the tune but it is pretty decent already...but with time it'll be even better /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
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just fyi..unless my car is special note that none of the cars power windows will work without the master window switch...atleast mine didnt untill I installed the master window switch, and now they all work :-D
Also I am trying to think of why my car sometimes will grind 2nd gear and sometimes not want to engage into any gear....I checked the shift linkages and everything seems to be adjusted fine...sometimes I have no issues and other times its hard to get in gear....right now my next assumption is that perhaps the clutch slave cylinder isnt extending out far enough for my twin disc clutch......oh yea and the adjustment rod rod appears to be maxed out on the pedal.
also...speed density is awesome
....one of my couplers popped off (the elbow leading into the intake manifold) and the car drove absolutely perfect..aside from not having boost.....a MAFT can only do that if the boost leak occurs before the GM MAF and stock cant do it at all....anyhow questions and comments are always welcome
Lastly I went ahead and replaced the door panels with stock ones, I think they look better personally...anyhow I am thinking about selling the ones that have the red/white placard things..any idea what a reasonable asking price would be for them?
Oh yea I also bought a TRE-200 external fuel pump.....I am seriously tempted to put one of my fuel cells in....now it'd just take making some brackets, taking the old one out, connecting the lines...and deciding how to insert the fuel lever sensor thing....but its doable (I have two spare fuel cells
Also I am trying to think of why my car sometimes will grind 2nd gear and sometimes not want to engage into any gear....I checked the shift linkages and everything seems to be adjusted fine...sometimes I have no issues and other times its hard to get in gear....right now my next assumption is that perhaps the clutch slave cylinder isnt extending out far enough for my twin disc clutch......oh yea and the adjustment rod rod appears to be maxed out on the pedal.
also...speed density is awesome
....one of my couplers popped off (the elbow leading into the intake manifold) and the car drove absolutely perfect..aside from not having boost.....a MAFT can only do that if the boost leak occurs before the GM MAF and stock cant do it at all....anyhow questions and comments are always welcomeLastly I went ahead and replaced the door panels with stock ones, I think they look better personally...anyhow I am thinking about selling the ones that have the red/white placard things..any idea what a reasonable asking price would be for them?
Oh yea I also bought a TRE-200 external fuel pump.....I am seriously tempted to put one of my fuel cells in....now it'd just take making some brackets, taking the old one out, connecting the lines...and deciding how to insert the fuel lever sensor thing....but its doable (I have two spare fuel cells
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vr4hotness
Well-known member
awesome just awesome
vr4hotness- thank you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
on a side note I suppose my car couldnt go too much longer being leak free and giving me zero issues.........the car had been occasionally grinding 2nd gear a little unless I let the rpms settle down or rev matched (for downshifting) which I actually didnt/dont think its the syncros I think/thought perhaps the clutch slave cylinder wasnt extending far enough or was leaking a little or something because also sometimes the car would be hard to get into gear (usually only when the car was first fired up in the mornings)....anyhow now the problem has gotten a little worse it pretty much always does it in 2nd gear unless I let the rpms settle down/rev match , its doing it in a few different gears, it being hard to get in gear is becoming more frequent, and if I hold the clutch in with the car in gear it makes the normal twin disc rattle but then another grinding/rattle will sometimes appear and occasionally will actually move the car forward...again making me assuming the issues is with the slave/master cylinder...........but when looking at my slave cylinder (red "piston" btw) it doesnt seem to be leaking although I did see some fluid inside of the transmission/bellhousing....here are two pictures I took with the dust cover/boot removed
Ideas?.....rear main seal...transmission input shaft...oil pan...car gnomes?
on a side note I suppose my car couldnt go too much longer being leak free and giving me zero issues
.........the car had been occasionally grinding 2nd gear a little unless I let the rpms settle down or rev matched (for downshifting) which I actually didnt/dont think its the syncros I think/thought perhaps the clutch slave cylinder wasnt extending far enough or was leaking a little or something because also sometimes the car would be hard to get into gear (usually only when the car was first fired up in the mornings)....anyhow now the problem has gotten a little worse it pretty much always does it in 2nd gear unless I let the rpms settle down/rev match , its doing it in a few different gears, it being hard to get in gear is becoming more frequent, and if I hold the clutch in with the car in gear it makes the normal twin disc rattle but then another grinding/rattle will sometimes appear and occasionally will actually move the car forward...again making me assuming the issues is with the slave/master cylinder...........but when looking at my slave cylinder (red "piston" btw) it doesnt seem to be leaking although I did see some fluid inside of the transmission/bellhousing....here are two pictures I took with the dust cover/boot removedIdeas?.....rear main seal...transmission input shaft...oil pan...car gnomes?
Long time no post, just thought i'd give anyone/everyone a quick update. I occasionally drive the car around but it has issues that need to be fixed. The stock radiator heat soaks with my gigantic turbo 1/4" from it when I sit still, so instead of adding more fans I think I am going to just get a half sized honda radiator and run two fans and a air box for it. I am seriously contemplating a little auto cross with this car, maybe fuel cell (although mine if finally clean enough to use), a couple of chassis braces, external fuel pump and filter, lower the battery, upgrade fuel lines, bigger injectors (1000-1200 cc) and eventually I want to build a good exhaust manifold/header for it. The transmission is still leaking some fluid onto my clutch so to prevent burning up the discs I dont drive it much but I am trying to find a way to sell some things and get a shep transmission. Lastly I am strongly considering a 5 lug 4 bolt swap but with retaining AWS by using a MR2 electric power steering pump (hopefully one will be enough for front and back?).
Ill update more as new information is available /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Ill update more as new information is available /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I wish I could update more often but things happen with money...feel free to donate :-D lol
anyhow inspection are due soon for me so I had to get my car able to pass...and my wheel bearing were shot so I was trying to look for some galant 4 lug hubs local and couldnt find any, looked in hollander and noticed that the expo share the same hub and luckily there was one at pull a part. This is where I made a small/bad assumption, I thought that since the hubs were the same the spindle would be the same.......they are close though and will get me through inspections. Also the car rides so much quieter now :-D lol....to make note of some of the differences vs. the gvr4, hubs are the same, but the spindles have differences: Tie rod end is inverted...which isnt a big deal really apparently it is positioned different also because with the tie rod adjusted all the way on both side I still have about 1/4" of toe in...i'd prefer half that or under. Also the brakes are a large single piston vs. dual piston.
On a side note it being inverted might help someone some how....I think the colt guys like the expo spindles over dsm spindles to fix the bump steer in lowered cars. Also just looking at the calipers it looks like I should be able to swap my dual piston calipers over with no problem but I will update once I have the time to do that. Right now I just gotta fix whatever wiring issue I just started having with the dash lights, tail lights and front turn signals not working (probably just a fuse or wire....). I am still on the hunt for a shep transmission for a decent price local and I am tempted to sell my OS giken twin disc cluth and get a QM just because it'd be quicker to get parts if I need them.
Lastly I upgrade to a TRE fuel pump and apparently it puts out better than my walboro 255 b/c I can run more boost before leaning out (with the same base pressure) :-D
Toe just after expo hub/spindle install...yes the steering wheel is straight
tie rod end adjusted all the way...much better...not perfect though
the reason for the different in toe can be seen below (gvr4 left, expo right)(note the tie rod end location)
and if your curious about the brakes being different
anyhow inspection are due soon for me so I had to get my car able to pass...and my wheel bearing were shot so I was trying to look for some galant 4 lug hubs local and couldnt find any, looked in hollander and noticed that the expo share the same hub and luckily there was one at pull a part. This is where I made a small/bad assumption, I thought that since the hubs were the same the spindle would be the same.......they are close though and will get me through inspections. Also the car rides so much quieter now :-D lol....to make note of some of the differences vs. the gvr4, hubs are the same, but the spindles have differences: Tie rod end is inverted...which isnt a big deal really apparently it is positioned different also because with the tie rod adjusted all the way on both side I still have about 1/4" of toe in...i'd prefer half that or under. Also the brakes are a large single piston vs. dual piston.
On a side note it being inverted might help someone some how....I think the colt guys like the expo spindles over dsm spindles to fix the bump steer in lowered cars. Also just looking at the calipers it looks like I should be able to swap my dual piston calipers over with no problem but I will update once I have the time to do that. Right now I just gotta fix whatever wiring issue I just started having with the dash lights, tail lights and front turn signals not working (probably just a fuse or wire....). I am still on the hunt for a shep transmission for a decent price local and I am tempted to sell my OS giken twin disc cluth and get a QM just because it'd be quicker to get parts if I need them.
Lastly I upgrade to a TRE fuel pump and apparently it puts out better than my walboro 255 b/c I can run more boost before leaning out (with the same base pressure) :-D
Toe just after expo hub/spindle install...yes the steering wheel is straight
tie rod end adjusted all the way...much better...not perfect though
the reason for the different in toe can be seen below (gvr4 left, expo right)(note the tie rod end location)
and if your curious about the brakes being different
So I took the galant on a 26 mile road trip to school and back and noticed I started leaning out again under boost....which means my lovely fuel filter was clogged again so I decided to take a picture of just how bad it was...it also shows how I have the hangar setup for my external fuel pump.......I really cant imagine there can be much crap left in that tank with all that I have pulled out and all the dirty filters I have gone through (thats even after cleaning it out with a hose and a few tanks of gas)........
Also although the expo spindles and everything are working since they arent optimal after I get this car inspected (gotta fix front turn signal and horn then it should pass) I will decide on either a full 5 lug swap, find some galant 4 lug hub/spindles, buy new wheel bearing for the galant hub/spindles or modify my tie rod end a little (not sure if I would need to cut more threads into the rod or cut some off the end...depends if its bottomed out or not).
Also although the expo spindles and everything are working since they arent optimal after I get this car inspected (gotta fix front turn signal and horn then it should pass) I will decide on either a full 5 lug swap, find some galant 4 lug hub/spindles, buy new wheel bearing for the galant hub/spindles or modify my tie rod end a little (not sure if I would need to cut more threads into the rod or cut some off the end...depends if its bottomed out or not).
fuel
Well-known member
how come you are using expo hubs with smaller single pot brakes as opposed to the original twin pot larger disc of the VR-4? It should be 256mm for the Expo vs 276mm for the VR-4.
Also is that fuel filter on the high pressure side? it looks like a generic low pressure filter for carburetor vehicles to me.
Also is that fuel filter on the high pressure side? it looks like a generic low pressure filter for carburetor vehicles to me.
fuel- I am currently using those only because I need to pass inspections and I couldnt locate a set of galant 4 lug hubs/spindles, and I think the brakes/rotors will transfer over I just have been busy trying to get this and my other car back running right again. If I get some free time thursday I will probably try and transfer them over....also I am not currently racing the car so a small temporary down grade in performance is the least of my worries. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
The fuel filter is on the pickup/suction side of the external fuel pump.
The fuel filter is on the pickup/suction side of the external fuel pump.
FlyingEagle
Staff member
FlyingEagle,
Thanks for that find, I am going to send that guy an email...although honestly I was hoping to find something local to avoid that additional shipping costs....maybe he will want some expo hubs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. If you happen to find anything near charlotte, nc let me know lol ( I looked on carolina dsm/ebay/here/craigslist)
Thanks for that find, I am going to send that guy an email...although honestly I was hoping to find something local to avoid that additional shipping costs....maybe he will want some expo hubs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. If you happen to find anything near charlotte, nc let me know lol ( I looked on carolina dsm/ebay/here/craigslist)
Well after inspections I found out that my front lower control arm bushing was almost non existent.....so I got decided to get a energy suspension bushing kit :-D. Ill be putting the car down soon so I can fix a lot of little things and will probably swap all these in then.
DR1665
Well-known member
Hey hey. I like how you're updating this particular car's history in this thread. I ended up here because of your link in the Jay Racing alternator relocation thread. It strikes me you've got one hell of a filthy fuel tank. Has anyone mentioned to you that you can pull the drain plug on the bottom, completely drain it, flush it, and maybe not have so many problems in this regard?
I saved a Galant a couple years back that had been sitting for a good long time. Tank was filthy. It had a burned up Wally in the tank already, but I grabbed a fuel can and a new drain pan (one of those plastic jobbers with the easy-pour necks), drained all the fuel I could from the drain bolt, poured it through a rag into the gas can, then poured the clean(er) gas back into the tank through the pump opening. Ran it through a couple times, got all kinds of ish out in that rag, and it's been running fine ever since. (The two times I've seen the car listed for sale since I sold it, neither mentioned any kind of fuel repairs, anyway.)
I saved a Galant a couple years back that had been sitting for a good long time. Tank was filthy. It had a burned up Wally in the tank already, but I grabbed a fuel can and a new drain pan (one of those plastic jobbers with the easy-pour necks), drained all the fuel I could from the drain bolt, poured it through a rag into the gas can, then poured the clean(er) gas back into the tank through the pump opening. Ran it through a couple times, got all kinds of ish out in that rag, and it's been running fine ever since. (The two times I've seen the car listed for sale since I sold it, neither mentioned any kind of fuel repairs, anyway.)
