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Radiator Fan not coming on until like 223 degrees

92awd4u

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Joined
Jul 23, 2011
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11
Location
Boise, ID
So the fan kicks on but wicked slow. What temperature is the fan on the car supposed to come on at? I thought the fan should come on around 200 but no clue what it is supposed to come on at.
 

92awd4u

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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
11
Location
Boise, ID
So if it's turning on right before the check engine light comes on do you have any idea what would have been wired wrong or more likely the switch on the radiator being bad?
 

5OF2k

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Mar 28, 2012
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colorado springs, colorado
what??

Your fan switch should tell the fans to turn on at 203*, and will run until the car gets back down to around 195*(IIRC...doublecheck your FSM for verification). Your FSM will also give you a detailed fan curcuit run-through and different points and specifications to check against your setup in order to help you repair/rectify the issue. Now, with different engine management setups, fan operation can change dramatically, so in essence we basically need to know mor information, and you should look into finding the specifications for the fan, switch and so-on ti ensure the circuit is in optimal oerating condition.

Does that make sense?

-Jake
 

92awd4u

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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
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Location
Boise, ID
I'll check it out and see when I get home. The cooling system on the car is factory with factory fans and car has AC still. ETS front mount blocks some flow to the radiator. The thermostat is 195 degree which is kicking on at 195 according to ECMlink. I just put a 2.3 in the car and don't feel like overheating it. I think it is wired correctly as it is factory and the fan will kick on (be it at a really high temp) and kick off after barely bringing the temperature down. Having the fan switch read 20 degree off on the bottom of the radiator sounded a little odd also but I was mainly wondering if anyone had a similar problem to that Jake.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
Quoting 5OF2k:
what??

Your fan switch should tell the fans to turn on at 203*, and will run until the car gets back down to around 195*(IIRC...doublecheck your FSM for verification). Your FSM will also give you a detailed fan curcuit run-through and different points and specifications to check against your setup in order to help you repair/rectify the issue. Now, with different engine management setups, fan operation can change dramatically, so in essence we basically need to know mor information, and you should look into finding the specifications for the fan, switch and so-on ti ensure the circuit is in optimal oerating condition.

Does that make sense?

-Jake



Actually, the fan switch is set to a much lower temp, since it sits at the bottom of the radiator. I don't remember the exact temp. But when the fans kick on, it's usually around 203 on the datalogger.

I think there is also a switch on the thermostat housing that kicks both the AC and radiator fan on around 230something.
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Quoting 92awd4u:
I'll check it out and see when I get home. The cooling system on the car is factory with factory fans and car has AC still. ETS front mount blocks some flow to the radiator. The thermostat is 195 degree which is kicking on at 195 according to ECMlink. I just put a 2.3 in the car and don't feel like overheating it. I think it is wired correctly as it is factory and the fan will kick on (be it at a really high temp) and kick off after barely bringing the temperature down. Having the fan switch read 20 degree off on the bottom of the radiator sounded a little odd also but I was mainly wondering if anyone had a similar problem to that Jake.



Like I said in the last reply to 5of2k, the fan switch in the bottom of the radiator turns the fan on at a much lower temp than what the thermostat housing sees. It just happens that it's usually around 203 when watching coolant temps on a logger.

Do you have ECMlink V3 full? They just released an update that allows coolant temperature parameters on one of the outputs. You can just run a wire from the ECU to the fan relay to have it kick on anytime you choose based on coolant temps now. This allows you to also use a lower temp thermostat properly if you wanted.
 
Last edited:

5OF2k

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Mar 28, 2012
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colorado springs, colorado
You're right Mark, I should have specified I was referencing my own setup, which is through AEM EMS and completely different than you link/OEM guys(like spanish to chinese). That's also why the IIRC was in there; been so damn long since I used link or the factory setup that its all a bit foggy to me. I suppose in situations like this I should refrain from inputting so as to not cause further confusion, or at least better elaborate my replies.

OP, I imagine you'd easily be able to adjust the switch activation point based on temperature that you specify, as Im certain I was able to do that in the past on V2/etc. It also might be a good idea to ohm the fan switch and motor to make sure they're within spec and without fault.

-Jake
 

turbowop

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The coolant temp parameter on the outputs has been a long time coming for ECMlink. Myself and a lot of other guys have been wanting it. It has always been available to 2g guys, since that stuff runs off the ECU anyway, but for us 1g/GVR4 guys, it's a brand new feature.
 

92awd4u

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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
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Location
Boise, ID
Thanks guys on the info on the V3 output I had no idea! Stoked to get this thing all buttoned up, tuned and running right!
 

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
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SoCal
Quoting turbowop:
The coolant temp parameter on the outputs has been a long time coming for ECMlink. Myself and a lot of other guys have been wanting it.



Agreed. I've been waiting for this as well. I have one fan wired up stock, so it kicks on at the usual temp. I have my second fan wired on a separate relay to kick in at 210, using the V3 FPS circuit output. A little software/firmware update was all it took. Hats off to the guys at ECMlink for still coming up with new and improved features.
 
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