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Newbie here from NH! 1992 GVR4 760/1000

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Hey guys,

Just picked up 760/1000, and have already ran into some problems. One of the prior owners had done a wire tuck, and the guy I bought the car off of reverted some of the wire tuck back to OEM spec. Needless to say, the wiring is a MESS.

After a quick "once-over", I noticed a few random plugs just hanging out in the bay, some wires feel brittle, the negative battery cable is just a wire "clamped" to the negative terminal, and the AC coolant sensor wires are so brittle and just fell apart (not connected to wherever they should run).

Anyways, I will be cleaning the car up and getting things sorted out. The car ran beautifully in 40* weather, and although it was tough to start after it sat for about 15 mins, it was very smooth when revved out. Now, today is 0* and the car is impossible to start. Since I found the AC coolant sensor wires brittle and disconnected, I assume that the Coolant Temp sensor that runs to the ECU is in the same condition.

Unfortunately, it's -2* right now and we're in the middle of a blizzard, so I cannot go diagnose the issue. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

The previous owner is running 20w50 Royal Purple oil in it (is this too thick?), recently changed the plugs and wires (although I will double check these), and I was told the factory fuel pump is still in the car, but cannot confirm this. Another thing, the guy who sold it to me mentioned that the vacuum line running to the boost gauge was cracked and that you could "hear it spool" from under the dash.

A boost leak check is also in store, as soon as I can get the car into the garage.

Now, besides the battery cable, coolant temp sensor, 20w50 oil, and vacuum leaks - is there anything else that I should take a look at for the cold start issue/no start issue? Or am I on the right track to figuring out the problem?

Thanks guys, and I'm excited to join the forum!

Joe
 

EHmotorsports

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
welcome! sounds like you have a project ahead of you.
i would refer you to the guide on dsm tuners. good read. click

20-50 is to thick for below 0. I would go 10-30 or 10-40

 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Welcome, was this the one just for sale on this forum? Looks nice, you got a good deal.
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Thanks, EH! I will change the oil tomorrow when I can get it in the garage.

Funny, I have that link open in my browser. :lol:

It definitely a project, and I managed to track down the original owner, who built the car, so I'm getting a lot of good information from him.
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Quoting coyotes:
Welcome, was this the one just for sale on this forum? Looks nice, you got a good deal.



I just picked it up yesterday, so I assume it was! It's definitely in good shape, but having had a wire tuck, then a half "reverse wire tuck", it's in need of some cleaning up. Too many brittle wires. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Those brittle wires are standard issue on these 20+ year old turbo cars (not necessarily a previous owner fault).
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
You def need 5w 30 in there for winter.
 
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