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need help removing the crank bolt

b00st33d

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Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
239
Location
Central, CA
i am trying to replace my balance shaft/timing belt and i'm stuck on getting d crank bolt out. i tried to loosen it with my 1/2" electric gun but it would not budge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
any help/ideas would be appreciated.
 

14u2nV

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Jul 22, 2004
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9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Maybe try tapping it a few times on the end with a hammer, then hit it with your impact again. That works for me occasionally.
 

FYI, you don't have to remove the crank sprocket bolt to do a timing/balance shaft belt job. You only need to remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the harmonic dampener to the crank sprocket.

*edit*
Now that I think about it some more, you just might have to get that sucker off to slip the belt past the crank wheel with the timing mark... Usually when I can't get one off it's because I was hooked up to the small compressor instead of the big one. Even with Snap-On's biggest 1/2" impact, the small compressor just doesn't cut it, try a lager compressor if you have access.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

1990ggsxnj

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Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
I usually do the breaker bar leaning against something solid and bumping the starter trick. Someone suggested this to me on the board a while ago and it's worked ever since. May not sound "safe" or "correct" but I've done it many times without fail or breakage to another part.
 

Kenny_Kline

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Dec 27, 2007
Messages
789
Location
Seekonk, MA
Need a 60 gallon or bigger compressor with an 1/2" impact gun. Its tough to use anything else especially the breaker bar method because the crank will want to turn where as an impact gun doesnt turn the crank when trying to loosen the bolt. Not saying it cant be done with a breaker bar but its just easier to drive the car somewhere and have them crack the bolt for you and then drive it home after you tightened it back down.

When you get this bolt out, you then have to get the balancer off. Have fun. As much of a pain in the ass as the center bolt, if not, its more difficult
 

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
Quoting 1990ggsxnj:
I usually do the breaker bar leaning against something solid and bumping the starter trick. Someone suggested this to me on the board a while ago and it's worked ever since. May not sound "safe" or "correct" but I've done it many times without fail or breakage to another part.



This is what I do. Works great. I place the breaker bar up against the control arm or the axle. Make sure you know which direction the engine spins or the breaker bar will go flying. The breaker bar handle should be sitting *on top* of the control arm or axle. Also, this method only works while the timing belt is still on. Don't go and bump the starter without it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif

To re-torque it back on, I built a vfaq style tool to hold the crank sprocket in place.

I tried to use the tool I built to remove the bolt, but it takes so much more torque to remove it than install it that I ended up bending the sh*t out of the first tool I made, so now I just use it for re-installation.
 

i don't know what kind of "electric gun" you are using. i have the new snap on half inch electric and it gets mine off most of the time and I have used the breaker bar and bump the starter but the best way is to use air impact or get a chain wrench and a big breaker bar. All the V8 TIMING BELTS WHERE YOU CAN'T GET A IMPACT IN WITHOUT PULLING RAD OR CONDENSOR i ALWAYS USE BREAKER BAR AND CHAIN WRENCH NO PROBLEM
 

b00st33d

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Feb 6, 2006
Messages
239
Location
Central, CA
Unfortunately, I tried loosening it by using a breaker bar with this tool wedge in between the cam gears. The timing belt does not move but the BS belt skips a few tooth. I hope I did not mess up anything - it is still on TDC except for the balance shaft gear tooth is not lined up anymore. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
I am using this impact wrench from harbor freight. I thought it would be plenty enough to do the job but I guess not /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
I already drained all my fluids engine, transfer case and transmission because I need to drop the oil pan and re-seal it.
 

b00st33d

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Feb 6, 2006
Messages
239
Location
Central, CA
Quoting customf4i:
i don't know what kind of "electric gun" you are using. i have the new snap on half inch electric and it gets mine off most of the time and I have used the breaker bar and bump the starter but the best way is to use air impact or get a chain wrench and a big breaker bar. All the V8 TIMING BELTS WHERE YOU CAN'T GET A IMPACT IN WITHOUT PULLING RAD OR CONDENSOR i ALWAYS USE BREAKER BAR AND CHAIN WRENCH NO PROBLEM



I assume you put the pulley back on to put in the chain wrench, right. I might need to try this technique.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
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Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quoting customf4i:
Quote:


i don't know what kind of "electric gun" you are using. i have the new snap on half inch electric and it gets mine off most of the time and I have used the breaker bar and bump the starter but the best way is to use air impact or get a chain wrench and a big breaker bar. All the V8 TIMING BELTS WHERE YOU CAN'T GET A IMPACT IN WITHOUT PULLING RAD OR CONDENSOR i ALWAYS USE BREAKER BAR AND CHAIN WRENCH NO PROBLEM





I assume you put the pulley back on to put in the chain wrench, right. I might need to try this technique.




Please note that if you do this, you may damage the harmonic dampner.

The outer ring is bonded to the inner hub, and applying that much force to the outer ring may partially shear the bond. If you do use this technique be sure to put all the stress directly in the rotational plane of the dampner. Any side load will dramatically increase the chances of shearing the bond.

Nothing good ever comes from a harmonic dampner seperating at 7ooo revs, so I usually avoid doing anything that may compromise the unit during a t-belt service.

I posted the breaker bar technique quite awhile ago. While not *exactly* OSHA approved, many techs have used this technique with great success for years.

I like to set the motor up just after tdc when doing this to give maximum valvetrain clearance, but it probably doesn't matter much... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

As Turbowop points out, make sure you have a good bite on the crank bolt, and then lay the bar against something solid and then just *bump* the starter.

It'll break it free, everytime. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quoting 14u2nV:
Maybe try tapping it a few times on the end with a hammer, then hit it with your impact again. That works for me occasionally.



Kenny, I know what you meant, but it's possible other's might misuderstand this post.

Do NOT hit the gear, hit the bolt.

The gear is made out of fairly brittle material, and a glancing blow may fracture/chip it.

A good smack, one time, on the bolt won't hurt anything, but I wouldn't make a career out of beating on it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

fivestardsm

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Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Middle, Michigan
I made my crank tool out of an old dampener that had come apart. I cut the rubber away in about a 2" area, and welded a 18", or 20" piece of 1/2" rebar to it. Bolt the 4 bolts on, and you could twist the bolt off in the crank if you wanted to without the tool ever breaking or bending.

And seriously, who hasn't got pile of destroyed O.E. dampeners lying around. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

b00st33d

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
239
Location
Central, CA
I finally got the crank bolt out. I had to borrow a 3/4" electric impact wrench from my friend. Thanks again for the help.
 
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