I can't get a break with my car!

[SleepinGVR4]

So the other day I discovered I ruined my clutch disk (couldn't figure out why my clutch wasn't disengaging). I found out what the problem was and I threw another disk I had laying around in the car til I can get a new disk and another flywheel.

You can see that the ceramic pads are almost gone.




Then the other day I discover this... WTF? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif The manifold has been on my car for less than a year. I'm not blaming FP and they are going to warranty it if it was a casting flaw. But what a pain in the ass since I had to send it back to them for inspection.





And fast forward to this weekend...

I decided was was going to replace the yoke, the two 27mm nuts, and my lobro joint on my drive shaft. Everything was going great....





But then I go to install the drive shaft and this happens.... Can anyone tell me what this goes to?





I'm beyond pissed right now and had to vent. If there was ever one thing on my car that I didn't want to break it was one of the studs that hold up the carrier bearings. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[Jesus_Negros]

Sorry bro. These things will test you in so many ways.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

What was the issue with the clutch?

 

[SleepinGVR4]

I over greased the disk splines and caused the clutch to not fully disengage.

 

[MellowVR4]

I believe that stud that busted off is from the support bearing mounting points.

 

[prove_it]

Yep, that's a carrier bearing stud.

Hot tip for dealing with undercarriage bolts, take a wire brush to the threads before disassembly. This will prevent the nuts from seizing on dirt or rust, which looks like what happened to that stud.

Not trying to put you down, but don't blame the car. You just need to take your time and be more careful with assembly/disassembly. Our cars are old and require extra steps to ensure a painless job. It's a bummer, but we've all been there and feel your pain.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Quoting SleepinGVR4:
I over greased the disk splines and caused the clutch to not fully disengage.



You are supposed to grease a clutch disk?

 

[prove_it]

Also with the manifold, did you torque the bolts and studs? Also did you use double washers? Uneven torque can distort the mounting area and cause cracking on DD cars.

 

[prove_it]

Quoting LIV4PSI:
Quoting SleepinGVR4:
I over greased the disk splines and caused the clutch to not fully disengage.



You are supposed to grease a clutch disk?



Sounds like he greased the input shaft on the trans and put too much on which oozed it's way to the disk pads. And no, don't grease the disk. And I think he means engage, as grease will cause it to slip and wear fast.

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Quoting prove_it:
Also with the manifold, did you torque the bolts and studs? Also did you use double washers? Uneven torque can distort the mounting area and cause cracking on DD cars.



Yes I torqued them and used the double washers.

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Quoting prove_it:
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Quoting SleepinGVR4:
I over greased the disk splines and caused the clutch to not fully disengage.



You are supposed to grease a clutch disk?



Sounds like he greased the input shaft on the trans and put too much on which oozed it's way to the disk pads. And no, don't grease the disk. And I think he means engage, as grease will cause it to slip and wear fast.



According to the Mitsubishi manual you are supposed to apply a extremely small amount of grease to the clutch disk splines with a brush and remove all extra grease. But I know plenty of other Mitsubishi owners that don't and have zero problems.

I applied to much which got everywhere and once the grease gets real hot it loses its lubrication properties and won't allow the disk or TOB to slide on the input shaft easily.

 

[prove_it]

The disc doesn't actually slide on the shaft, at least not much if at all. All that grease you used was thrown outward due to centrifugal force and coated the disc with grease. Once that happened the disc couldn't create enough friction to hold the power. That's why the pads are worn so much.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting SleepinGVR4:
I applied to much which got everywhere and once the grease gets real hot it loses its lubrication properties and won't allow the disk or TOB to slide on the input shaft easily.



Unless you used the wrong type of grease, that will never happen. If you used a white lithium grease or something, then you may have some of the issues you described. Typical grease isn't made for this application. However, if you used the correct grease (high pressure extreme temp grease) then it will never break down or exhibit diminished lubrication properties under high temp or pressure. Hence, the name "high pressure extreme temp grease".

The clutch disc does need to be able to move a small amount on the input shaft. If it doesn't, then you'll have a disengagement issue as you are describing. Likewise, the TOB needs to move freely on the input shaft collar (the TOB doesn't actually slide on the input shaft itself). Both points should be lightly lubed with high pressure extreme temp grease. And, as suggested in the FSM, it should be brushed on or wiped off after application in order to keep from overdoing it and having it fling everywhere on the clutch disc and flywheel. Once that happens, the grease can only be removed by hand after pulling the trans and taking apart the clutch assembly. Much of the time when the clutch disc friction surface gets contaminated, it can't be cleaned and must be replaced.

I have to agree with prove_it. Your clutch disc was covered in grease, and that's what likely caused it to slip and burn up. If you did in fact have a disengagement problem, you likely have a separate issue to diagnose.

 

[4thStroke]

I hear ya man. I sealed up all the leaks from the front of my car recently. I kept getting whiffs of raw fuel when I was out Saturday, it turns out if the car isn't leaking some sort of fluid from the front, its leaking from the rear. My filler hose cracked while I was out.

My FP manifold cracked in the same area as well.

And this was just after I tossed my alternator during the only snow storm here this year and was left stranded on the roadside at 10:00pm mid week.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

damn dude, you just can't catch a break can ya. Let me know if you need help at all

 

[Wookalar]

The carrier bearing mounting stud, I imagine one would need to remove the center console to repair that? Do they push through a hole in the body like lugnut studs? Maybe you can try that, using a wheel stud. Maybe weld it on top. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Quoting SleepinGVR4:
I applied to much which got everywhere and once the grease gets real hot it loses its lubrication properties and won't allow the disk or TOB to slide on the input shaft easily.



Unless you used the wrong type of grease, that will never happen. If you used a white lithium grease or something, then you may have some of the issues you described. Typical grease isn't made for this application. However, if you used the correct grease (high pressure extreme temp grease) then it will never break down or exhibit diminished lubrication properties under high temp or pressure. Hence, the name "high pressure extreme temp grease".



The grease I used was just some black grease that is supposed to be high temp, idk about high pressure.

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
The clutch disc does need to be able to move a small amount on the input shaft. If it doesn't, then you'll have a disengagement issue as you are describing. Likewise, the TOB needs to move freely on the input shaft collar (the TOB doesn't actually slide on the input shaft itself). Both points should be lightly lubed with high pressure extreme temp grease. And, as suggested in the FSM, it should be brushed on or wiped off after application in order to keep from overdoing it and having it fling everywhere on the clutch disc and flywheel. Once that happens, the grease can only be removed by hand after pulling the trans and taking apart the clutch assembly. Much of the time when the clutch disc friction surface gets contaminated, it can't be cleaned and must be replaced.



What was happening is that the grease would get all pasty and build up on the input shaft collar and not allow the TOB to travel the full amount it needs to.

So crappy grease would cause this?

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Quoting 4thStroke:
I hear ya man. I sealed up all the leaks from the front of my car recently. I kept getting whiffs of raw fuel when I was out Saturday, it turns out if the car isn't leaking some sort of fluid from the front, its leaking from the rear. My filler hose cracked while I was out.

My FP manifold cracked in the same area as well.

And this was just after I tossed my alternator during the only snow storm here this year and was left stranded on the roadside at 10:00pm mid week.




I was afraid my fuel filler hose was going to do the same thing so I replaced it with a new one recently.

And I feel you on the alternator pain. I've had a number of problems with mine over the years.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Yeah, the wrong grease could definitely be causing an issue. Use something like this: click

Check this out also: click