Installed Clutch...Can't shift

[conquesttsi]

I finished installing my clutch for 1933 yesterday.

Seemed to row through the gears fine with the car off.

Started it and the car jumped forward. Figured out that the I was not in neutral (like the clutch won't disengauge.

I was able to get it into neutral with the car off, restarted and was able to idle fine....rev check fine...not moving foward in neutral.

Can't shift.

I put in a brand new flywheel act extreme pressure plate and street disk with new pivot ball w/washer, fork, tob. stainless clutch line.

I didn't bleed the system as I inspected the action visually while my girlfriend pressed the clutch in and it looked good.

Possible solutions: A. I still have air in the system and should bleed it. B. Master cyl needs adjustment.

Does this sound like what might be causing my issue? Any other Ideas. I am going to bleed the system and adjust the master reguardless at some point this week.

 

[jared50438]

get an extended slave rod?
shim the fork?

 

[gvr4ever]

I'd just try and bleed the system of air. With all the new parts and SS clutch line, you shouldn't need to shim anything or get a longer slave rod. I got my ACT 2600 working without that stuff.

 

[Tre3zy]

i got an extended slave rod when i did my 2600 six puck with the new pivot ball, fork, etc. and mine shift like butter in low rpm and in high rpm...

 

[fivestardsm]

Check these out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

click


click

click

 

The clutch needs to be adjusted, it's not disengaging.

Daryl

 

[conquesttsi]

Thanks for the good advise, all. Fivestar...some good reading there, thanks very much for the links. I think I know what direction to go in now. I found a table of things to look for on vfaq. I will put it in this thread incase anyone else is in the same position I am. The good news is I have done ALL of this short of bleed/adjust or replace slave/get longer rod. So I guess I know exactly what I need to check/do.

Cause Solution
Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid Bleed clutch fluid and replace.
Master cylinder is leaking. Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. Replace slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal rod is worn out. Replace rod.
Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. Readjust master cylinder rod.
Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment. Readjust clutch pedal free play.
Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed. Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount.
Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. Lengthen master cylinder rod.
Master cylinder worn out. Replace old master cylinder.
Slave cylinder worn out. Replace old slave cylinder.
Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. Grease moving parts well.
Worn clutch fork pivot ball. Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel.
Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. Grease throwout bearing very well.
Worn or bent clutch release fork. Replace fork.
Worn clutch pivot ball. Replace ball.
Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch/flyweel at proper spec.

 

[conquesttsi]

It deleted my spaces, I am sorry if the above table doesn't look right.

 

Looks fine to me.. I may need to look at this again after I get me car back.. I hope today.. We'll see.. :/

 

[dmj]

Any updates , has clutch problems been fixed? I am going to replace mine soon possibly with the Act 2600 and street disc combo.I am interested in how this works out and any problems and solutions encountered.

 

[conquesttsi]

The weather hasn't been great up here lately. I got busy this weekend doing some maintence on my daily so I have not got to fixing the vr4 yet. I will do so this week, however I am 99% sure that my issue is air in the line. I relaced the rubber clutch line with a stainless one and didn't bleed. Also, because I am going with a new aftermarket flywheel/clutch/disk I should really adjust the clutch pedal. Shouldn't be more than an hour of work left when I finally get to it.

 

[conquesttsi]

Ok I was able to bleed the slave and adjust the cluth rod last night. Success, I was able to drive it yay!

There is one thing that doesn't quite sit with me right though.

As posted earlier, I have a new fork and pivot ball. I shimmed the ball with one washer. I had to adjust my clutch rod all the way out to get everything to work. The slave and master are fine and not leaking. The clutch pedal travel is such that it releases only maybe an inch off the floor. As such there is no slipping like when stock, you need to give it a healthy amount of gas to go, you can't just slip out and roll forward as you can with a stock clutch. I am concerned about this being out of spec, do I need to adjust it? I think I could get the release point higher off the floor by shimming the pivot ball again but I don't want to drop the tranny. Would an extended slave rod help bring it in spec?

 

[gvr4ever]

About an inch of the floor is right. As long as you can change gears, your fine. You really want to make sure you have slack on to top of the clutch pedal too. Don't adjust it out of spec that way either.

Sounds like you got a grabby clutch. It isn't going to slip. You just got to learn to not let it all the way out. You got a street disk right?

Did you get a ACT 2600? I pretty much had all the issues you had, but I was able to get it to work without shims, just all new stuff. I personally don't think it's a great street clutch and I don't understand all the rave out it.

 

[conquesttsi]

It is the 2600. street disk with extreme pressure plate. I was hoping to get more pedal travel than this. The pedal travel is so short I fell like it's more just on and off like I don't have much control over it. I can drive just fine but it isn't to my preference and I know it is out of spec because the rod is adjusted out as far as it will go and that is the only way it works. I have new everything except for the slave but it has no leaks. I am still leaning extended rod. Just wondering if that will help the travel?

 

[Jostar]

Your pedal assembly needs to be rebuild, I hate ACT clutches... I installed one in my friends DSM, I rebuild the pedal assembly, New master cylinder, New Slave cylinder, New braided clutch line, New pivot ball, New fork, New ACT flywheel & clutch & the god damn thing would disengage!!!
I pulled the tranny out & removed the Pressure plate just in case i miss something but nothing outta the ordinary, So i installed everything back & same problem, I even made sure i put the pressure plate nice & straight, Torque it right, The way Vfaqs has it on the site... I never disengage... I pulled it out one last time & the diaphram looked weird...... So i had a OLD ACT pp & compared them & they look a lil different,
The new one the Diaphrams half them bend & made a heat spot on the PP... So i installed my old PP & sure, No problem disengaging... Did they change the PPs??? I have done many many ACT & it seems like there poop now...

 

[conquesttsi]

Quoting conquesttsi:
It is the 2600. street disk with extreme pressure plate. I was hoping to get more pedal travel than this. The pedal travel is so short I fell like it's more just on and off like I don't have much control over it. I can drive just fine but it isn't to my preference and I know it is out of spec because the rod is adjusted out as far as it will go and that is the only way it works. I have new everything except for the slave but it has no leaks. I am still leaning extended rod. Just wondering if that will help the travel?




Yes, they did change them, but oddly until now I have only heard good things about them. My pedal assembly is in awesome shape. I am able to disenguage. Update: Drove the car for 2hrs Sunday and it works well enough. Extended slave on the way should get me adjusted w/in spec and all will be good again. I had a blast driving it.