Fukenvr4
Member
I've got a stock 14. So what other partsdo i need to complete the 16g install?
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Finally got a hold of an evo3 16g turbo
- Thread starterFukenvr4
- Start date
Gaskets, crush washers, Copper Based Anti-sieze, coolant, an Ice cold 6 pack, a brain, two hands, eight fingers, two thumbs, etc.
Although I'm sure you could do it minus a couple of fingers... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
Although I'm sure you could do it minus a couple of fingers... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
rdomeck
Well-known member
New coolant pipes and oil lines make it a lot easier. Most of the DSM parts websites have an install kit that has all the stuff needed. If nothing else, install a new oil return to the oil pan! I installed a evo3 16g when I rebuilt my engine.....You'll like it!
matt92vr4
Well-known member
Are you guys running the 16g with stock fuel?
rdomeck
Well-known member
I am told my car has a supra pump in it...I don't seem to have any fuel delivery problems and run 43.5 pounds of pressure! If you don't have it ECMLink would be a good investment.
5OF2k
Well-known member
A full install kit isnt necessary, clean the piss out of all (ALL) feed lines, coolant and oil, especially your drain and get the new gaskets and crush washers with the anti-seize as mentioned earlier. Re-wire your factory fuel pump, or spend $100 and an hour or so on a 255/similar at MINIMUM. So long as you stay at factory boost you should be alright. If you want to turn it up (you will) get at minimum a set of Evo 560's and a GM maf or link for tuning, along with a wideband or a logger to moniter everything.
I know it seems like a lot of work, but you have to pay to play, and it definitely pays to do it right the first time.
Enjoy!
-Jake
I know it seems like a lot of work, but you have to pay to play, and it definitely pays to do it right the first time.
Enjoy!
-Jake
yeti
Well-known member
Preety sure they used the same lines so I would just remove old turbo replace oil return line gaskets, and all the feed/return lines washers throw some anti sieze on the bolts and bolt back up?
NOT saying all of the above mentioned would be great just not on a budget.( Not talking about fuel mods that needs to be handled)
NOT saying all of the above mentioned would be great just not on a budget.( Not talking about fuel mods that needs to be handled)
grocery_getter
Well-known member
Most evo3 16G install with a straight thru 3" turbo back exhaust will have boost creep way past the safe zone with all stock fueling parts. The exhaust flow will not want to go out thru the wastegate port. The straight thru exhaust will present path with less restriction and the resulting flow across the turbine wheel will induced boost creep. With a full stock exhaust you will have enough restriction to avoid boost creep.
ade
Well-known member
what can be done to control boost creep? assuming a 3" turbo back is run with an evo3 16g.
TomN
Well-known member
Use a external waste gate or have your internal gate enlarged to a larger internal flapper.
Personally I love boost creep. It's where your power spike comes from. Just have to tune for it.
I add washers to where the waste gate actuator bolts to the compressor housing to make it harder for boost to bleed off.
Personally I love boost creep. It's where your power spike comes from. Just have to tune for it.
I add washers to where the waste gate actuator bolts to the compressor housing to make it harder for boost to bleed off.
Last edited:
5OF2k
Well-known member
If your e316g has the larger 34mm o2 flapper boost creep should be minimal at lower/near factory boost levels. As you increase the boost it will become more noticeable, but nothing a tubular external dump o2 housing wont fix. SFP used to make a unit I ran on my Talon with a 7cm hoisong and 34mm flapper, and even at 28psi i had zero boost creep. I'll try to find a pic if i can. It was pretty sweet, the o2 dump was a good deal longer than most you see, and actually had it exiting under the car rather than into the engine bay like 90% of the ones you see.
Long story short, thats how to take care of that.
Long story short, thats how to take care of that.
grocery_getter
Well-known member
I was waiting for this to come up. Here is the problem with installing those bigger flapper valve. With the bigger valve, and a bigger hole, it is easier for exhaust flow pressure to push open the valve and bleed boost once you are above 22-24psi. On a boost graph, you can see a steady boost and then boost will start going down noticeably on the top end.
I'd say the ideal solution is to fuel it. Don't put an evo3 16G on a straight thru 3" turbo back exhaust if you don't have the fuel for it yet. It will creep and it will lean out. So the stock fuel system will not handle 24psi out of an evo3 16G, so add fuel to the equation. Instead of spending time and money curbing boost or avoiding boost creep, embrace the boost!!! Spend money upgrading the fuel side, get a good boost controller, fuel parts, fuel management and actually run it up there and get power as a dividend.
You can do all the trick to eliminate boost creep and have a steady boost but all those time and money that you spent "fixing" boost creep is for what? To run less boost and less power? Did I hear that right? You are spending money to run less power? Better spent buying a fuel pump and big injector. So if life gives you a lemon, make lemonade! If you are going to spend money, by God, spend it to go faster not slower.
I'd say the ideal solution is to fuel it. Don't put an evo3 16G on a straight thru 3" turbo back exhaust if you don't have the fuel for it yet. It will creep and it will lean out. So the stock fuel system will not handle 24psi out of an evo3 16G, so add fuel to the equation. Instead of spending time and money curbing boost or avoiding boost creep, embrace the boost!!! Spend money upgrading the fuel side, get a good boost controller, fuel parts, fuel management and actually run it up there and get power as a dividend.
You can do all the trick to eliminate boost creep and have a steady boost but all those time and money that you spent "fixing" boost creep is for what? To run less boost and less power? Did I hear that right? You are spending money to run less power? Better spent buying a fuel pump and big injector. So if life gives you a lemon, make lemonade! If you are going to spend money, by God, spend it to go faster not slower.
Okayplayer
Well-known member
Stock system should be able to handle that. I would get a wideband to make sure you know what you are getting into when upgrading a turbo. Though it maybe close to stock boost levels, the larger turbo will still a higher volume of air. If you know your air/fuel ratio, you can better determine your fuel needs.
ade
Well-known member
Quoting grocery_getter:
I was waiting for this to come up. Here is the problem with installing those bigger flapper valve. With the bigger valve, and a bigger hole, it is easier for exhaust flow pressure to push open the valve and bleed boost once you are above 22-24psi. On a boost graph, you can see a steady boost and then boost will start going down noticeably on the top end.
I'd say the ideal solution is to fuel it. Don't put an evo3 16G on a straight thru 3" turbo back exhaust if you don't have the fuel for it yet. It will creep and it will lean out. So the stock fuel system will not handle 24psi out of an evo3 16G, so add fuel to the equation. Instead of spending time and money curbing boost or avoiding boost creep, embrace the boost!!! Spend money upgrading the fuel side, get a good boost controller, fuel parts, fuel management and actually run it up there and get power as a dividend.
You can do all the trick to eliminate boost creep and have a steady boost but all those time and money that you spent "fixing" boost creep is for what? To run less boost and less power? Did I hear that right? You are spending money to run less power? Better spent buying a fuel pump and big injector. So if life gives you a lemon, make lemonade! If you are going to spend money, by God, spend it to go faster not slower.
That Andre is what i wanted to hear, apart from the 3" o2 back, my fuel system except the rail and injectors are ready. i've been looking into the evo8 ecu swap and plan to run a slightly tweaked base tune, stock e8 injectors, maf, ect. i think this will be adequate in combating said lean out issues, what do you guys think?
I was waiting for this to come up. Here is the problem with installing those bigger flapper valve. With the bigger valve, and a bigger hole, it is easier for exhaust flow pressure to push open the valve and bleed boost once you are above 22-24psi. On a boost graph, you can see a steady boost and then boost will start going down noticeably on the top end.
I'd say the ideal solution is to fuel it. Don't put an evo3 16G on a straight thru 3" turbo back exhaust if you don't have the fuel for it yet. It will creep and it will lean out. So the stock fuel system will not handle 24psi out of an evo3 16G, so add fuel to the equation. Instead of spending time and money curbing boost or avoiding boost creep, embrace the boost!!! Spend money upgrading the fuel side, get a good boost controller, fuel parts, fuel management and actually run it up there and get power as a dividend.
You can do all the trick to eliminate boost creep and have a steady boost but all those time and money that you spent "fixing" boost creep is for what? To run less boost and less power? Did I hear that right? You are spending money to run less power? Better spent buying a fuel pump and big injector. So if life gives you a lemon, make lemonade! If you are going to spend money, by God, spend it to go faster not slower.
That Andre is what i wanted to hear, apart from the 3" o2 back, my fuel system except the rail and injectors are ready. i've been looking into the evo8 ecu swap and plan to run a slightly tweaked base tune, stock e8 injectors, maf, ect. i think this will be adequate in combating said lean out issues, what do you guys think?
