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DD Build 474/1000

GSX_TC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
3,725
Location
Houston, Texas
Yeah your right, yeesh scary stuff.
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
It looks like the belt has dry rot. I think this is what caused the teeth to strip. It only has 30k miles but the original owner had it sitting under a tree for the past 7 years. When I got it home for the first time I turned on the A/C and the crank pulley separated. Probably from the same dry rot issue. Here are some pics from this morning. Engine bay is done. Lunch break and then back to cleaning accessories/brackets etc.

Before:

After:

 

mitsuturbo

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
The belt only has 30k miles, or the entire car?

Make sure and check your pulleys, and the oil pump sprocket. Make sure they all spin freely. If an engine is running, teeth shouldn't just strip off at the crank, even if the belt is really shitty. I would think that something had to have bound up the belt, at least momentarily, for it to stop and allow the crank pulley to strip the teeth off of it.
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
The belt has 30k to the best of my knowledge. The car has 160k. I bought it from the original owner who was a very nice older man and described every little detail of the cars life lol. Thats a great point about something being froze. I just got finished with stage 1 of cleaning so my next step is to tear down the engine. The crank and cams turn fine but I have not been able to look at the BS's or other pulleys. Fortunately FEDEX just arrived with my first round of goodies. Still have a lot more coming. Here are a few more pics (including a new OEM oil pump!)


Yuck!


That's a little better!


Goodies!
 

Wizardawd

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
1,323
Location
Franklin, NC
Wouldn't worry about the teeth stripping of at the crank, that is where most do it. Think about it, the crank gear is where the power to turn the belt comes from. Valvetrain, compression, etc keep the belt from turning, so the crank gear has to force the belt around, so naturally the first failure point.

With the belt off, turn everything by hand and look for unusual tightness or seizure. Otherwise, belt just got old and failed. One of mine did it 20 miles from the shootou, stripped the teeth at the crank. Had it back up and running in 20 minutes with 2 slightly bent intake valves. Still ran, just misfired until it got under boost. Drove it around for the whole event (was hoping to race it) and back to Ft. Wayne. Then we changed the bent valves, and drove the other 800 miles back home.

Wiz
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
Haha, that's a great story. I love these cars. Boost and nitrous fix everything.

I have not been very productive this evening. I got the timing cover off to take a look. Everything spins freely as it should. It was just an old, compromised belt. I did notice something interesting that may or may not have caused a bad belt fail sooner than later. You can see from the pictures below that almost all of the teeth were starting to fall off on the side of the belt that did not have the groove over it. I think the groove potentially put more stress on the other part of the belt that was not grooved. Combined with the dry rot it was toast. Something I learned though was to take a better look at the teeth. I had been inspecting the top of the belt where the groove was and it never got any worse. Oh well, perfect excuse for cleaning and upgrades. I also have the ECMLINKv3 sitting here /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Fedex came back with more stuff!

Bad belt





You can see all the teeth sitting down there lol

My current issue is that I can't locate any bolt to put the block onto the engine stand. The tranny bolts are not long enough. Are there any tricks here? Does Home Depot carry metric bolts this size and length? Thanks!
 

DynastyLCD

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2006
Messages
761
Location
Harwinton, CT
^^^ not sure about your engine stand exactly, but turbo to manifold bolts work perfect for mine!
 

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
For your engine stand find a bolt with the correct thread and take it to Home Depot, Lowes, or any Hard Ware store and use Thread Standard and find out the thread you need how long it needs to be I used grade 8 bolts and they held up great.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
See if you have any old head bolts lying around that are long enough. I think I may have had some Honda or Nissan bolts that worked. Have bought hardware store bolts as well though.
 

IncorpoRatedX

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2003
Messages
5,593
Location
Arizona
head bolts will not work, different thread.

Main cap bolts and turbo bolts on the other hand do the trick. I think it's M12x1.25 but I can't remember. Like others said, just take a turbo bolt or o2 housing bolt down to the hardware store and get the right length, you can get the right bolt from almost any rural king, lowes or ace hardware
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
Thanks for the tips on the bolts guys. I'll go pick some up from home depot. I've been lose up in bed for two days sick Ack!
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
Been sick for the past week. Still not good enough to work on the car. If I don't feel any better soon I'm doing to the doctor. Anyways, I got a couple more goodies and a question.

Goodies:
2G Exhaust mani and o2 housing

ARP


My question is regarding valve stem seals. My order came in from Mitsu with 16 exhaust seals. Can I use all the same seals for both intake and exhaust or did Mitsu screw up? Thanks!
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
Went to the doctors today. Walking pneumonia. Got my meds and headed out to the garage for a little work. Got tired pretty fast so i didn't get much done. Got the engine on the stand and removed a few accessories. From a quick glance I see what looks to be two bent intake valves so far. I got all new EVO valves ready to go in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


 

birdman24

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
139
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Man, what did you use to clean your engine bay? Mine will not clean up like that, I've tried multiple times lol

Terence

Quoting matt92vr4:
It looks like the belt has dry rot. I think this is what caused the teeth to strip. It only has 30k miles but the original owner had it sitting under a tree for the past 7 years. When I got it home for the first time I turned on the A/C and the crank pulley separated. Probably from the same dry rot issue. Here are some pics from this morning. Engine bay is done. Lunch break and then back to cleaning accessories/brackets etc.

Before:

After:



 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
I used dish soap with grease cutter in it, and about 5 scouring pads from the kitchen...and a lot of elbow grease. You could also try purple power. That stuff works good.
 

birdman24

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
139
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Wow it had to have been Dawn, that stuff is great. Ok, thanks I'm mixing up a Dawn and purple power solution right now lol.

Thanks,
Terence
 

matt92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2010
Messages
676
Location
Venice, FL
I just went out and looked, it is Dawn lol. Ultra concentrate original scent. Green.
 

birdman24

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
139
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Lol that's because Dawn is the best. That's the exact one I have except mine is blue. Thanks for you're help.

Terence
 
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