Has anyone gone from coil on plug setup back to the normal ignition setup? May need to make a decision tonight. Coil on plug setup replaces the wires, coil and transistor correct? Anyone feel one setup fails more frequently than the other?
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Coil On Plug
- Thread starterBpuVR4
- Start date
Racah15
Well-known member
Coil on plugs are far superior to stock ignition, if you have the proper mods to operate them correctly.
Stock ignition is being used on 2 cars I know personally (pushing over 700hp), so it is fine for that. So there should be no problems going back to stock. I lack Galant knowledge, but based on DSMs, only the sparkplug wires and Coil pack get replaced, not the transistor. The only way you will see a noticable improvement is when you are running an AEM stand alone (4 channel instead of 2 channel wasted spark) and a spark amplifier (COPs tend to have spark blowout easier than stock ignition. A spark amplifier will alleviate this).
I tested my Sparktech on my friends 1g and he is pushing 650 to 700hp. With the Dynatek Arc-2, it pulled great to redline. But so does his stock ignition (Stock coilpack with NGK wires).
So it's up to you.
Stock ignition is being used on 2 cars I know personally (pushing over 700hp), so it is fine for that. So there should be no problems going back to stock. I lack Galant knowledge, but based on DSMs, only the sparkplug wires and Coil pack get replaced, not the transistor. The only way you will see a noticable improvement is when you are running an AEM stand alone (4 channel instead of 2 channel wasted spark) and a spark amplifier (COPs tend to have spark blowout easier than stock ignition. A spark amplifier will alleviate this).
I tested my Sparktech on my friends 1g and he is pushing 650 to 700hp. With the Dynatek Arc-2, it pulled great to redline. But so does his stock ignition (Stock coilpack with NGK wires).
So it's up to you.
Last edited:
I'm going to go back to a regular ignition here, at leats for awhile, just to leave out one variable in making sure it's going to run like it should (long story)...the way I made my harness (and how I do things in general) is I used a socket from another coil setup and wired from that to the coils, so that all I need to do is unplug it from the oem harness and plug that part of the oem harness into my coil and can have either one...I kept the coil on all that time, as a abckup emergency (in case my coil(s) went out), so that all I had to do was plug it back in and put the ignition wires back on or visa versa...Doing it any other way is sort of a hack job, IMO, although if you know you'll stay with COP for good, you could cut the oem harness too of course, but if you go back, you'd have to cut again and splic on the plug again; no thanks, lol.
Anyhow, I don't expect anything different going back necessarily and like I said only reason I am for now is to eliminate any variables for now (bought a miswired MAS harness that fukked up some stuff on my car, that I had to fix) until I get it dialed in, then I'll probably put the COP back on. I do recall a much smoother idle and generally running vehicle, but never got to try it under much boost (part of what the bad MAS harness did to my car).
Anyhow, I don't expect anything different going back necessarily and like I said only reason I am for now is to eliminate any variables for now (bought a miswired MAS harness that fukked up some stuff on my car, that I had to fix) until I get it dialed in, then I'll probably put the COP back on. I do recall a much smoother idle and generally running vehicle, but never got to try it under much boost (part of what the bad MAS harness did to my car).
GSX_TC
Well-known member
It goes right in between the runners of the intake manifold of the drivers side. It's a tight fit but that's where it goes.
James
Well-known member
Since you have the chance, you should relocate it.
1- it's a pain to take in and out when the car is warm.
2- that's a pretty damn hot area, obviously it's no to extreme for the parts, but cooler is better for making parts last longer!
1- it's a pain to take in and out when the car is warm.
2- that's a pretty damn hot area, obviously it's no to extreme for the parts, but cooler is better for making parts last longer!
