Quoting yeti:
You don't think iv'e learned anything, take a look at this post
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at that time i didnt even know how to change a tire,oil none of it...
Now, Ive removed an engine, I have torn down the whole front of my motor in a half hour and reassembled it within the hour,added fuel pump, injectors,exhaust,intake,ecmlink, i didnt know what half that sh*t did last year so before you go discouraging people think of who taught you and how many idiotic questions you asked....
Only cars ive lost to was a eclipse on 30lbs and a zr1, when i got the car it would barely move and i did not know how to BLT
And wasting experience and 300 for an assembly is a waste of money..
and are you saying assemble block without lube first time check clearences then disassemble, add lube and check clearences?
and i have to read more about checking piston ring end gap, I know they go diffrent degrees but don't know what i'm checking for, they are new pistons and rings.
After you check the clearances once and you make sure that you have everything marked the way you took it out you do not need to recheck anything. Just lube and assemble. The ring end gap should be checked on new rings. It pretty easy to do. Put a ring in the cylinder and push it down a 1/4 or 1/3 of the way with the piston and measure the gap with a set of feeler gauges. Write down the number and repeat for all rings and keep them in order or put them on the piston as you check them. Check the Haynes manual again for correct end gap. If they are too tight you can put a file in a vise and file the ends down to meet your requirements. If there too loose your bore is worn or your rings are not correct or are crappy rings! You want your ring end gaps to be 120 degree's from one another once they are on the piston and in the bore. They don't have to be exactly at 120 degree's from each other but somewhere around that.