Water Pump

[tinkolby_25]

Well today I was on my way home and my car started to overheat, so when I got home I looked around and it seems that there is water dripping from under the crank pulley. I'm gonna take a stab in the dark and say it's my water pump. I was wondering if there are any write-ups on changing it, and I was also wondering where would be the best place for me to get one?

Thanks,
Justin

 

[89Mirageman]

There is a write up in the VFAQ, go ahead and replace the t-belt, tensioners, seals and everything else that wears over time while its all apart. Grab the parts from JNZ Tuning.

 

[G]

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[tinkolby_25]

Yeah I found the write up. I have a Greddy timing belt. Does the timing belt have to be removed to change the water pump?

 

[acidrumz]

^-- yes the timing belt will have to be removed. Since you are in the ball park, replace all related timing parts as well. One less thing to worry.

 

[Whoodoo]

And be prepared to $pend $ome too. I just did all that jazz and even cutting corners here and there to cut costs, it wasn't cheap.

 

[tinkolby_25]

Are there any alternatives to the special timing belt tensioner tool? I'm trying to get it done b4 saturday.

 

[524of1000]

Yes, A big solid screwdriver. From above the engene, wedge it between the tensioner arm and the tensioner pully and pull up, which if you do it correctly will lift the pully while pushing down the arm. It works and works well.

 

[SouthCaliVR4]

Quoting tinkolby_25:
Are there any alternatives to the special timing belt tensioner tool? I'm trying to get it done b4 saturday.



Keep in mind you have a two way tensioner set up. You can unbolt & slowly crank down the hyd tensioner in a vise then use a "grenade pin" to secure it in the retracted position. bolt it back to the block line up your marks & tension the belt with the mechanical adjustment till the pin will come out without force, You will need a special tool to do it right. Its tool with two little pins you use to set the preload tension. without this step you risk too loose or too tight a belt & will have potential issues.

 

[Whoodoo]

I've got a jay racing tool kit. I'll loan it to you if you pay shipping there and back.

 

[mitsuturbo]

Quoting tinkolby_25:
Are there any alternatives to the special timing belt tensioner tool? I'm trying to get it done b4 saturday.



I have always compressed the tensioner with a big C clamp, then put an allen wrench through the 3 aligned holes to keep it compressed. Then, i put two allen wrenches in the cam-adjustable bearing, with a screwdriver between them. I hold tension against the belt while keeping the arm in contact with the tensioner, and then tighten the bolt in the bearing. When i see the retainer or allen wrench in the tensioner release tension, i keep going, and when i feel a little tension on the retaining allen wrench, going DOWN, rather than up... i consider it done. I remove the retaining allen wrench, give the engine a couple of full revolutions, then see if i can get the allen wrench back through the tensioner. If it will go thru, things are as they should be. Once your timing belt tension is set, you should be able to put an allen wrench through all three tensioner holes and spin it freely. I actually learned this while working for the dealership as a tech. It's easier to do with the right tools, but 3 allen wrenches and a screwdriver have been good enough for me at home.

 

[bazeng]

I had an issue recently when the belt was too loose. Anyway, I had to rotate the pulley slightly to get more tension. I did have the tension tool but your just have to keep in mind to compass the tensioner slowly either in a vice our with the rod. Also you should finish up with about 3.8mm to 4.5mm between to top of the tensioner rod and body. Compensate all remaining slack with the pulley.

Do it right because from a loose belt I had 1 tooth off the crank and 1 off the intake cam. The giveaway was the belt slap on the timing cover. Good luck!

 

[Wizardawd]

Easiest way is to put the pin in before you loosen the TB.

If tention is properly set, the pin will slide in and out easily. I use the screwdriver method myself. I pry slightly until I think it's tight enough. If the pin slides easy, tension is correct.

Otherwise, c-clamp or vise, just make sure you do it very slowly. In the end you can't go wrong by turning it over by hand. If something is wrong you'll catch it then before your starter makes mincemeat of your valves.

And I've run into this lately, take note of the shutter plate between the crank and balance shaft sprocket. I've had to did a few that got phone backwards.

Wiz