The I hope to make "Turboren" proud build thrend.

[citymunky]

For those of you that never got a chance to meet Ren, I'm sorry. He was a chill, laid back guy who knew his Galant VR-4's. Soon after I picked my 1st GVR4 from Penn State I kept hearing about "this guy in Norfolk who had a stash of Galant VR-4's." That guy was Ren, I would say it take me about 2 years to finally get a chance to meet the man, the myth , the legend. Ren was a local legend for those of us in the 4G63 community known for hoarding all them Galant VR-4's. The problem was none of the active 4G63 forum members knew himpersonally. I met Ren, while he was helping build and store another's local member's 2G. Being that I only worked about 10 mins away from Ren's house I would stop by after work to learn since I was just in the beginning stages of working on 1505/2k. I'm glad I was able to meet him in person, although I missed out on the time he was active member here.

So I dedicate this build thread of 733/2000 to Ren, with hopes of making the big guy proud. I'm sure alot of you didn't know the Ren served his country in the US Navy and achieved the rank MM1 MM Rate Wiki page

At first when I was helping Ren's family move and sell all the cars he had owned (I think 9 cars total and a Vespa), I had no plans of buying 733/2K, I had my hands full with 1505/2K. After looking at 722 closely for the first time, I knew the next owner was getting a solid car, Nile Black with the original paint and no peeling clear coat. We have a buyer lined up, but when it came to pick the car ALL the brakes were seized and they have a hell of a time getting the car out of the garage. After the car arrived at the potential's new owners home, it was deemed to big of a project. Rather then let the car sit unloved for more time, I talked to the Ren's dad over lunch and offered the exact offer with a promise to get her up and running.

I don't know the history of 733/2000 other than it was last register back in July 2000, so that is a least 13 years of sitting. There are a lot of old school parts on the car, there is also a lot of surface rust in the engine bay, and mold all over the interior of the car. The paint is best nile black GVR4 one I seen, however there are dents in every panel, and chipped paint on the hood and did I say mold in interior of car.

EDIT: I found a the 1st post with 733/2000 in it, there is even a picture of Ren.--> click

 

[Jesus_Negros]

I'm glad a friend got 733. Good luck!

 

[89Mirageman]

That's a pretty cool story. Sadly I never got a chance to meet him in person but from hearing others speak so highly of him I wish I would have. Sounded like a cool guy for sure. Please keep us updated on the build.

 

[coyotes]

Simple green works really well for mold, you can spray it on the leather also. My buddy who does detailing up here in the NW has to deal with moldy interiors a lot, simple green kills it fast and makes for easy clean up.

 

[FlyingEagle]

Be very careful with mold control.

Want someone to be able to safely enjoy the shell, once it is thoroughly cleaned up.

That, in of itself, could likely be the biggest undertaking if the interior is to come out as original as possible.

Hell, even if a standard, lower level trim package was installed, it will still make the car safe for occupants and get the job done.

It would then be a one off.

 

[citymunky]

I'm looking into this stuff called Microban Disinfectant, it's pricey but it seems to be the best stuff out there.

Here is a pic of the engine bay that I forgo to post yesterday. It's needs loving.


Plans for this week is to clean the interior with Simple Green or white vinegar/water mix until I get my hands on Mircoban locally. I looked it the car today, and there are a few gauges of mixed brands and mixed styles that need removed and sorted, they are most likely going to be sold so I can have all the same brand and style once I'm done. As for what brand it's still up in the air. I love to have another HKS Camp2 system but there is no place to display it.

 

[EMX5636]

Good to see someone close finishing the car. I used vinegar/water mix on a car that caught fire to get the smoke residue and smell out of the seats. Worked pretty well, just had to do a few different applications.

 

[citymunky]

Well I cleaned the interior today beside the carpet. While wearing my respirator I wiped everything down with ammonia first going to through 6 rags in the process /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif. Next I vacuumed everything up including cobwebs, and rat droppings in the trunk /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif. After that I applied leather conditioner to all the seats and trim. The interior looks 100% better. I was real surprise to learn that the stock leather seats held up, there was no hole in the driver's seat side booster and there was no tear in the seems of the rear seat near the head rest. The leather is a hard, but hopefully I can soften it up with Lexol.

The carpet need a good cleaning, there a soda stains everywhere, so that is the plan for tomorrow with removing the a-pillar gauges and pod, along with the gauges under the A/C controls.

I'm sorry I don't have pictures today as my phone died as before I snapped the 1st pic.

 

[Hittman]

Oh snap! Welcome back!

 

[coyotes]

Good deal man. on the seats use leatherique if they aren't too hard. if they are too far gone you will have to clean them nicely and use the cleaner (like hand soap works well) and massage it into the seats. You can literally coat those seats in leatherique, wrap them in plastic, and let them sit in the sun for hours to soften up. You will really have to do a lot of massaging to get the oils back into the leather. My seats were pretty hard in places, you have to do many applications to get them to start softening up. I may reupholster instead eventually.

 

[citymunky]

Here is a pic of the back seat all cleaned up, yea I know sexy right. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[EMX5636]

Coming along nicely! She'll be a great Nile Black car for sure when you're done

 

[citymunky]

Thanks man.

EDIT:
Well I didn't do much to the car today besides trying to figure out what kind of turbo is in the car. It seems to be some T3 Garrett or garrett based turbo (PTE, or Turbonetics) with a 4" compressor housing inlet and a 5 bolt garrett/ Ford style turbine flange outlet.
I'm thinking it might be a Garrett 60-1 based off my research and thinking about the biggest turbo's back in the day. There is no in-and-out shaft play which is good. If keep this turbo I'm going to get it rebuilt and balanced locally to get a warm and fuzzy and call it a day.
So as of now I don't have a intake pipe or filter for the car or downpipe.

 

[citymunky]

Well I removed all the gauges today, the boost controller, and turbo timer. I also removed the Turbonetics T3 Manifold, the Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II wastegate (w/ 9 PSI spring) and the turbo. Judging from the exhaust manifold to head gasket, it looks like this set-up has not been run long. The exhaust manifold looks new, and the turbo have no shaft-play all.

I can't find any identifying marks what so ever on the turbo I have no idea what it is. There was a Turbonetics 90 degree elbow welding on the compressor housing. There is a spot on the exhaust housing were it like the casting of were the Turbonetics stamp should be was off.

 

[citymunky]

Well yesterday and today I was able to get a lot done to 733/2000. I was able to pull the motor and tranny out.


Also I was able to find what why the car has been sitting for 10+ years.



I was surprised that the A/C System still had pressure when I pushed in the valve-core so I left the system intacted since I want to keep AC in that car (and it is still a R12 system.)

While taking the car apart, I could tell someone spent good money this build back in the day, and I was not surprised to find some of the goodies that were installed.

I pulled the valve cover and the oil pan off, and so far I know I there are the following parts installed:
-an almost new pair of HKS 272 cams
-ARP head studs
-Crower valve spring retainers.
-Pistons look new.
-H Beam rods with ARP 2000 rod hardware. I can't see the brand but I can see that the weight of the rods are stamped in the caps of the rod.
-Fidanza Flywheel
-ACT 6 Punk un-sprung clutch with an old school ACT pressure plate

The crankshaft counterweights are grey in color unlike all the brown one I always see.





The #3 main bearings were the worst off by far. #1 and #2 looked fine, and #4 and #5 had some minor grooving. The was something soft in the oil pickup screen kind of like a piece of a oil soaked cheesecloth. I think dirt and sh*t on the oil was the killer of this engine. It's sad because everything inside the engine looks new. There wasn't ever a lot of carbon build up the exhaust ports in the head.

Well its needless to say to the crankshaft needs to be polish if it is in within specs, oversized main bearings and a good cleaning of the oil galleries before I can even think about running this engine. The plan is to reinstall the oil pan and valve cover and wrap up this engine for later.

I have few other engines in the garage, but there all need work to run. I think I'm going to go with the cheapest and fastest route of refreshing the stock 6 bolt that I tore down last week. Once that said and done I'll have a stock block with a stock head paired with a my small 16G.

Once that car is drive-able and reliable that I could start worried about the other motors that need work and making the engine bay pretty.

 

[BENE38A]

From the photos there looks like there is a raised ridge in the recess of the rod caps, I would say they are eagles. Engine looks clean shouldn't be to hard to remedy if the crank is in spec, definately doesn't look like its been sitting for 10 years.

 

[citymunky]

That is what I was thinking based off pictures like this

 

[citymunky]

Made so progress today. (Yay for the baby steps /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

A while back Antilagged give me a stock 6-bolt short block just before he sold his house and when on deployment. I was told the block was pulled from a running car. The block had been sitting around his garage exposed and was grimy as f***, but hey a free block is free block. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Before I picked up 733/2000, I was just going keep the block as a back up stock motor for 1505/2k. Fast forward almost 6 months and that back-up motor will be finding it's way into 733. Within the last month I tore down that stock 6-bolt and besides being dirty, and the dead bugs in the oil pan everything checked out Ok. I was able to order so ACL bearings and I started to put together the short block today, just need to torque down the rod nuts.

Sorry no pic's from today, I didn't think anyone wanted to see a stock motor being build.

I'm on the fence if I want to run a 1g head or a 2g head. (I have both). The goal for 733/2000 keep build as stock as possible. Once the motor is done, I will be installing a small 16G turbo and that's it, at least for now.

 

[citymunky]

Old gas tank, with a -10 AN male fitting welded on the fuel pump cover. It looks just as bad on the inside.


"New" gas tank from 1505/2K, with a -8 AN elbow fitting.

 

[citymunky]

Yesterday I was able to drop in it my refreshed 6 bolt motor. It's just a stock refreshed block done up with the goal of just to get this car back on the road ASAP. You wouldn't find any fancy ARP hardware on this block, the only "Mods" done were 3g lifters, and a balance shaft delete.

The block is paired with a small 16g turbo, 2g exhaust manifold, and a 2g O2 housing. I plan on running just wastegate pressure and not pushing this block too hard.

I still have tons of work in head of me:
- Need to figure out my fuel problem, I have a -8 AN male fitting coming off the fuel pump and I want to use the stock fuel line and not the -8 fuel hose.
-Need to install the flywheel, clutch, and tranny.
-Install fuel rail and injectors.
-Install and wire in my wideband, and make a O2 sensor hear sink.
-Install my ECU and figure out this ECMlink crap.

Once I'm done with all that than I can try to start the car.