Stinky rich when cold.

So I have a 2g maf, a 16g, and an safc to make it all work. When I got the car it worked fine. Now when I start up it runs 10-12 :1 at idle and when I put on the throttle at all it pegs the wideband at RICH and the car looses all power. If I de-tune the afc down to about +5% fuel it is drivable. As I drive the car it will start to lean out, once I have been going for 20 minutes or so I am back to +20% fuel. If I turn off the car and turn it back on again, I have to repeat the procedure, even if it has only been ten minutes.

Unplugging my idle control motor does NOTHING. The air control thing run off coolant temp was deleted by the previous owner.

 

Those fuel % are at low and high throttle from 1-5k rpms. I'm not rapping it out while its running like this=)

Oh and I hate to mention it, but my ECU is covered in crap. I just have no other transportation. I'm trying to decide if I want to bum a ride off someone for a couple days and send it in to get capped, or if I want to just replace it. I just wish I knew it was the problem.

 

[prove_it]

could be your coolant temp sensor. The colder it reads the more fuel it dumps in. I had a 2g eclipse with one that read -40 and it wouldn't even start cause it was so rich.

 

[gvr4ever]

I had that problem last winter. Turned out the thermostat was stuck open.

 

Interesting. I will check out those problems. I don't think it is the t-stat, I live in phoenix. I can assure you the car gets up to temp. In fact right now I am worried about it running too hot=) However I will check it anyway.

 

[spoulson]

The coolant sensor may be ok. For my Galant, the wiring was faulty causing negative temperature readings and maximum enrichment. The car was blowing black smoke. I crimped on female spade connectors to replace the harness plug.

 

Quoting 687OF2000:
Interesting. I will check out those problems. I don't think it is the t-stat, I live in phoenix. I can assure you the car gets up to temp. In fact right now I am worried about it running too hot=) However I will check it anyway.



It has nothing to do with whether your car is running at the right temperature, or even if the gauge is working, as the guage has its own sensor. The problem is that the wiring around all the sensors on the thermostat housing gets old and brittle, making bad connection. The one 2-wire sensor is ONLY for the ECU, so the only way to see it properly is with a logger. If the connection is open you will see like -40* on the coolant temperature of a logger, so the ECU dumps in tons of extra fuel.

 

Yes indeed. I understand what you mean. I was saying I did not think the T-Stat was stuck open, a condition that could actually cause the car to run too cold. I can assure you that is not the case. I was responding to the poster who said his t-stat got stuck.

Resolution to this problem: The plug for the ECT was broken internally, and the wires were not connected to the spades inside. I have ghetto rigged it for now until I can get a new plug with good wires. While I was there I ohmed out the sensor, 1650 ohms cold, 150 ohms hot. The only spec I could find for this sensor indicated it should be 2200-2500ohms cold and 200-250 ohms hot. Is this true? If so I should probably replace it, even though the car is running well.

 

I'd say that it is probably fine. "Hot" and "cold" are relative terms. Unless you heat/cool the sensor to EXACTLY the temperatures in the manual you aren't going to see the right resistance.

 

Interesting. Well, after all that my problem is not entirely resolved, however it is better....Waiting on parts for my palm III so I can get my logging on.

 

[prove_it]

Make sure your coolant is completly bled of air. You may have an ecu issue. Have you had your caps replaced?

 

I am going to get a loaner and send my ecu out to get recapped. It is currently still covered in acid.

 

[prove_it]

Bam there is your problem. Acid+people=a good time, acid+ecu=a bad time.