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Solid inserts

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
click me Then the front cross bar the motor mount bolts to uses the same bushings as the front subframe. So order two sets and you'll be left with half a kit extra. After that sell it to someone else on here.


Now as for your solid bushings. Run away. Race car, street car, etc the aluminum is softer than steel even 7075 structural stuff will deform and wear when rubbing against steel so in a very short time you'll be under the car changing them out. Plus to make them out of aluminum you need to fully clean and mic out the holes perfect because there's just to much slop from the factory and you'll never get a perfect fitting set. When me and John did the rear subframe bushings we both measured as many as we could and there was if I remember correctly +/- half a mm. Thats why I left the inter steel piece thats vulcanized to the bushings from the factory and added material to the outside dia. and made the inter hole a rch smaller than the pin so when everything is pressed together it locks and compresses into place. Is rch a proper engineering term well yes its in my vocabulary so I use it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

JNR

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2004
Messages
9,814
Location
ca
If you want metal, be better off with brass and pressed in, but IMO better to stick with rubber or at least polygraphite (so you don't have squeaks)...you can always find a rubber that has a higher durometer # (stiffer, harder)...However, some sort of isolation/dampening is a good thing, provided it's not all cracked up, etc.
 
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