The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Reliable setup for 250-300 WHP
- Thread starterBoos929
- Start date
Noobsauce
Well-known member
nsin
Well-known member
That was a very imformative link, im also looking for that hp range, for now..
5OF2k
Well-known member
While i do agree with the link you posted as far as the typical build goes, im personally a big fan of over-building. Dont just aim at a specific power goal, surpass it with certain parts that you wont have to upgrade again when(yes, WHEN)you want more power. For instance, thing such as injectors, Intercooler core size, clutch and drivetrain related parts such as the rear diff, shifter, and possibly the build of the transmission if it so tickles your fancy. Keep in mind, modding a 4G63 car is addictive as hell. You WILL want to go bigger and faster, its simply a matte of when and how you go about it. Like I said, over building a car is not only safer, but in the long run much more economical/friendly on your pockets. Take my car, for instance. I have nothing too special on my car, typical bolt ons. BUT, i've got 980cc injectors, AEM EMS, and a massive front mount begging for a bigger turbo, as the rest of the setup would suggest as well.
Just food for thought.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
-Jake
Just food for thought.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
-Jake
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
Noobsauce
Well-known member
I agree if you need to rebuild. Rebuild with the good stuff. I went for a more stock rebuild but I used 2g pistons with 1g rotating assm and ARP rod bolts. As well as ARP head studs. Im shooting for 400hp and with a good tune on dsm link I will see that reliably. I also agree go bigger on injectors and fuel system mods like fuel pump and adjustable pressure regulator. But untill you go with a bigger turbo I wouldn't worry about an over sized intercooler. Unless if you live in a place like Arizona where any added cooling will help.
turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting jmorri15:
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
He doesn't need a forged motor for his goals. I doubt that 95% of this forum needs forged internals. Mitsu overbuilt the motors from the factory. They can handle North of 500whp reliably just fine.
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
He doesn't need a forged motor for his goals. I doubt that 95% of this forum needs forged internals. Mitsu overbuilt the motors from the factory. They can handle North of 500whp reliably just fine.
+1 for the stock internals ok for this power-range. Me and a friend of mine have been running almost stock jdm's for over two years now without any problems(daily driver/few trackdays per year). Only mods we've done so far is exhaust, boost controller set at about 1 bar and modded ignition maps(and few tweaks like fuel cut) with Ostrich. Both make about 300hp. This is also the limit with stock fuel pump.
Dark_Horse
Well-known member
The more power you're putting down, the more stuff is going to break. If you need your car to be reliable, don't go crazy in a quest for horsepower.
250WHP: DSMlink, injectors, Walbro 190, Exhauast/downpipe, intercooler, boost controller, clutch.
250WHP: DSMlink, injectors, Walbro 190, Exhauast/downpipe, intercooler, boost controller, clutch.
raptorWagon
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
Quoting jmorri15:
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
He doesn't need a forged motor for his goals. I doubt that 95% of this forum needs forged internals. Mitsu overbuilt the motors from the factory. They can handle North of 500whp reliably just fine.
Most of the time, installing forged internals happens to be when the motor is already torn down, the "while You're at it" mindset takes over or they are building for more than 400hp. I could see 500whp on stock internals being reliable, only if up to that point the motor had been maintained properly through all the mileage, but at some point it will need a rebuild, still doesn't need forged internals unless you want them.
I have all forged internals (including crankshaft), but it's also a stroker and the motor was completely stripped and built back up. Could I have used a stock g64 crank? Probably, but I had the funds and wanted the peace of mind with a new part rather than a used junkyard part.
Quoting jmorri15:
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
He doesn't need a forged motor for his goals. I doubt that 95% of this forum needs forged internals. Mitsu overbuilt the motors from the factory. They can handle North of 500whp reliably just fine.
Most of the time, installing forged internals happens to be when the motor is already torn down, the "while You're at it" mindset takes over or they are building for more than 400hp. I could see 500whp on stock internals being reliable, only if up to that point the motor had been maintained properly through all the mileage, but at some point it will need a rebuild, still doesn't need forged internals unless you want them.
I have all forged internals (including crankshaft), but it's also a stroker and the motor was completely stripped and built back up. Could I have used a stock g64 crank? Probably, but I had the funds and wanted the peace of mind with a new part rather than a used junkyard part.
Last edited by a moderator:
i dont argue that forged seems a little extreme for a build. but i would suggest from past experience to work bottom up and start by going through then engine internals before spending all your money with bolt ones. and as was said earlier once you are in the block spend a little extra and over build it.
turbowop
Well-known member
I guess I did it backwards then... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
turbowop
Well-known member
Well I've been driving mine since '98 on the stock motor...through a 16g, an FPgreen, and now an FP3052 since '07, all on the stock bottom end. 70k miles now that I've put on it and hundreds of timeslips, many of which show traps at 119mph. I don't ever plan to go forged with this car, as I think it's unnecessary for my goals.
5OF2k
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
Quoting jmorri15:
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
He doesn't need a forged motor for his goals. I doubt that 95% of this forum needs forged internals. Mitsu overbuilt the motors from the factory. They can handle North of 500whp reliably just fine.
DING DING DING!! I've never had a built motor, and I've DD'd a 550whp 1GB Talon for nearly two years on a factory poor mans build(2gP/1gBR, ARP's,62-1,etc etc etc). The engines are beefy as hell from the factory, and when healthy and well maintained can put up with a lot of abuse.
My thoughts on running larger than necessary injectors has a lot to do with tuning, or the first time or self tuner. Having more injector than you need is a lot better than having too little injector, know what I mean? Granted, comparatively they are on the cheaper side of the equation when it comes to builds, but why not take care of it off the bat, get it out of the way in case you decide you want to switch fuels, bolt on a bigger turbo, etc etc etc. Throwing a new turbo/manifold/wastegate onto an already built setup is a lot easier than having to buy an entirely new setup.... I'll use my car as an example again: One big turbo/manifold/wg setup away from having a really fun car that makes good power. Because I built around the idea of future upgrades....
anywho, just my .02 I suppose.
-Jake
Quoting jmorri15:
i would suggest building certain parts beyond but i disagree with 5OF2K's choice of parts to overbuild. i would say do engine internals the best you can afford. the bolt on like injectors and front mount are pretty cheap and easy to install anytime. look at doing all forged internals and making the shortblock as strong as you can. then no matter what you throw at it you'll know you're working from a good base.
He doesn't need a forged motor for his goals. I doubt that 95% of this forum needs forged internals. Mitsu overbuilt the motors from the factory. They can handle North of 500whp reliably just fine.
DING DING DING!! I've never had a built motor, and I've DD'd a 550whp 1GB Talon for nearly two years on a factory poor mans build(2gP/1gBR, ARP's,62-1,etc etc etc). The engines are beefy as hell from the factory, and when healthy and well maintained can put up with a lot of abuse.
My thoughts on running larger than necessary injectors has a lot to do with tuning, or the first time or self tuner. Having more injector than you need is a lot better than having too little injector, know what I mean? Granted, comparatively they are on the cheaper side of the equation when it comes to builds, but why not take care of it off the bat, get it out of the way in case you decide you want to switch fuels, bolt on a bigger turbo, etc etc etc. Throwing a new turbo/manifold/wastegate onto an already built setup is a lot easier than having to buy an entirely new setup.... I'll use my car as an example again: One big turbo/manifold/wg setup away from having a really fun car that makes good power. Because I built around the idea of future upgrades....
anywho, just my .02 I suppose.
-Jake
Last edited:
uncleben4rice
Well-known member
Gotta agree on Wop on this one. I blew up my stock motor because of all the upgrades. It had over 100k when I started. It might have been different had I started with a fresh motor /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif If your gonna double or triple the horse power you should build up the inside. Im just sayin
