Rear Camber Adjustment Range

[belize1334]

You can use AWD DSM rear bushings. Look on the roadraceengineering.com suspension page. They have a rear control arm bushing set for like $35 or something.

 

[CarRacer]

Bushings ordered. Thanks for the link Jepherz. Damn VR4 is gonna nickel and dime me to death. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[atc250r]

If you haven't done it already, get a rear swaybar for while you're in there. Hands down it was the best suspension mod I did at any price.

John

 

[CP]

Ditto. Mine is a 1" Suspension Techniques bar. The 26mm WL bars will be hard to find, and you only give up .6mm by going with the ST bar.

 

[atc250r]

I've read that the ST bar will not clear the 4WS pump. I have one in my car but no 4WS pump and it doesn't look like there would be a clearance issue.

John

 

[curtis]

Quoting thadirtybird:
Well buddy, if you are intereted in what "I" would say are the "best quality" rear camber arms of all the different styles and brands that "I" have seen (about 3 differnt ones) then I would say to PM Andre owner of PINA Motorsports and pick up a set of rear camber arms from him. When I was there a few months ago he only had a few sets of arms/bushings left, he had one less after I pick up my set. I will also say, that being what "I" would say are the best quality of all the others they are also the most expensive of all. After I bought the arms I had them powder coated gloss black, the arms a true sign of HIGH QUAILTY work.

just my .02

Robert



Rob brought his arms by the house, Andre builds some sweet toys. There probably 10 times over build with aurora heim joints and custom stepped bushings / spacers but he builds them so you have the factory adjustments as well as the adjustments in the arms. There straight up WRC ready.

 

[CarRacer]

Got to it today.

I was able to adjust both rear tires to -3/4* of camber. One bushing didn't want to cooperate and I had to work it back and forth to loosen it up. Replacing the rear bushings is going to be a huge pain in the ass though. I can already see that. I also noticed my LR shock had a drop of fluid accumulated on it. I think it has a blown seal. I'll have to see what Ksport gets for that service.

Overall I set both rears to -3/4* and the front to -1*. I think that will be sufficient for now. The fronts are very easy to change with the camber plates.

 

[atc250r]

When I did mine I found a 1G DSM rear subframe. They can usually be gotten for a song as there is really no market for them. Then you can take your time doing the bushings and freshening up the whole thing with a fresh coat of paint or undercoating. I'd have to check my sheet but I think I have mine set at 2.5* front and 1.5* rear. I don't DD the car but it really did help the car stick in the turns. I've heard that 2.0* front and 1.0* rear makes for a very street friendly set up. Three things I miss about working at the dealer. Killer Hunter alignment machine, tire machine/balancer, and lift.

John

 

[CarRacer]

I hear you about having nice tools. I'm lucky to be able to use the leftovers from the racing team, lift, tire machine, welder, tool chest, alignment tools (not digital though).

I'm probably not going to ditch the AWS at this time, so a DSM subframe is out. When it eventually fails, I'll trash it.

Thanks for the specs though.