As long as the welds are decent I wouldn't think it can be a bad buy. More oil is a plus. Not a fan of studs if not needed. The real question is how does it fit? Do the holes line up, does it stick out more on the bottom?
Edit: I would search tooners, I'm petty sure someone over there pick up one of these by now.
The only one I've ever worked with did not fit. The welds etc. look okay but being that it's made in china, they always dip the final product in some sort of chinese chrome plating so it looks baller, but you have no idea what exists underneath. That said, the holes didn't line up right and never ended up using it. Pretty sure it won't fit with a stroker motor either.
I have tried a few OBX products and had to custom fit each one. I wouldn't buy another OBX product unless I had no other choice. Like anything you get what you pay for. Buy a factory one and be done!
I wouldn't take a chance on any chinese special, no matter how much they try to polish a turd...as mentioned, you get what you pay for and why support that crap they pull (complete copy attempt on their other junk).
If you're adament on it though, I'd be concerned with proper sealing (flange) and if they come with any gaskets, ditch them and put something of quality; couldn't imagine how crappy it'd be to go thru all the work of putting that in, only to have leaks, etc...
I used one. Fitment is horrible as stated. had to drill out some of the holes to make it line up with the block. And I did not use the cheap ass studs and nuts it came with. I ordered a stainless steel oil pan bolt kit from stm. There's also some chincy ass springs and baffles inside the pan which I completely removed cause I didn't want that sh*t in my motor. I also welded an AN fitting for the oil return. Would I recommend it...no. Just get an oem one. This is the best pic I can find of mine. click
I bought the moroso one and I ended up having to weld it in a few spots because it leaked. It at least lined up with all of the holes. I only had to modify it when I did main studs because the shoulder of the head of the nut was hitting the flange. I needed one because all I do with this car is track it or auto-x it and I was getting some horrific oil starvation in left hand turns even when 1 qt overfull. I have zero oil starvation now. These cars have the worst stock oil pan ever. Its nice and rounded inside so the oil can go away from the pick up easily. My daily vr-4 has oil issues when it gets about half a qt low when driving though corners with any kind of speed. If you don't want to spend the money on a good one and have the patience to make it fit then I would do it. If you just want to put it on I would get a better one.
i know this is kinda off topic.. but companies like obx and ssac and things like that do make some horrific parts but also make some ok stuff... there will always be knock offs.. the problem with HKS and Greddy and apexi and things like that is..
other then sell parts what do they contribute to the US import scene?
spoon greddy hks mugen blitz all the top japanese parts companies do not contribute.. they just sell parts. great parts mind you but people are not as interested in them as they were back i the day because out of sight out of mind.
take some US companies.. AEM, KAAZ, megan perrin. they contribute. they sponsor things and shows and events and track days..
I am not saying do not use these companies but hell even CX racing and OBX throw some sh*t in now and then.
You get what you pay for. If I have to work with knock off products I go into thinking I have to beat it to fit and painting it to match. I re weld and re work knock off parts and for some items its OK.
I have a stock oil pan on my race car, zero oil pick up issues even with no extra baffling or oil control and reving to 10,000 rpm.
Since you have to modify it, you might as well buy the cheap one instead of the moroso, since you'll have to modify that one as well, at least if you're running ARP's.
Stick with stock... At least you know it will work... The oil pan is easy to install but also a PITA
When it doesnt fit or starts leaking and you have to yank it off again...
So it's really up to you; if you feel like taking a chance... Go for it. Let us know how it goes and what to look out for.
I considered a new oil pan ... Until I realized that the one I have works fine.
My friend pushes 550hp in his GVR4 and he still uses a stock pan...
A friend bought one a while back for his 6-bolt. POS. Bolt holes lined up ok, but had to grind some of the flange inside to clear the main caps. And it never did stop leaking. With/without gaskets, studs, bolts, washers, load spreaders, even making sure the flange was perfectly flat.
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