No Clutch Disengagement - No air in system.

[1990ggsxnj]

So got an engine for the Gold GGSX which was working before the car was parted. Put the engine in(trans remained in car) and now the clutch will not disengage. Did a system bleed as well as pushed the slave as far inward as it could to and released any trapped air in there. Had helper step on clutch to push fork as far as the system would let it go then used pry bar to see if there was any more travel on the fork but there was not. Shifter Linkage is in the same location. The clutch never came off of the engine and the Trans never came out of the car. Both were working before the swap.

What now? I know sometimes you have to have the fork shimmed but it was working perfectly before the swap. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[belize1334]

You could have a popped spring in the clutch disk. My car has been down for a few weeks now cause my act disk popped a spring while parallel parking. It'd be a coincidence for it to have happened the last time you used the clutch before pulling the engine but crazier things have happened. How's the pedal feel? Does it FEEL like you're moving the clutch disk? How far does the fork travel when you depress the clutch pedal?

 

[ApexHunter]

Another possibly is a worn out pedal assembly. Try pushing the pedal to the floor and then releasing it. Then grab the pedal with your hand and try to pull it up. If you can pull it up then you need to rebuild the pedal assembly, or weld the axle the pedal pivots on directly to the arm that actuates the clutch master cylinder piston.

I see that your clutch was working before the swap. However, when mine finally took a crap it was during the bleeding process. I bled the clutch multiple times (replaced slave, then master, then another slave) and all the pumping killed the pedal assembly. This was with an ACT 2600 pp.

 

[1990ggsxnj]

Yea, I will try. It came to mind but I disregarded it since the clutch was working fine before. It's also a stock clutch. Will see what happens. Going to remove the line to see if more air comes up when the bleeder is above the reservoir. Only problem is even if either of these problems WERE apparent, the fork is still moving to the end of it's travel. As suggested previously, I'm going to measure the travel. Once I get a number I'll compare to my GGSX that hasn't been pulled apart and see if there's any variation. Other than that, I think we're going to have to break the tranny from the block again to see if anything is wrong with the clutch that was on there.

 

[belize1334]

You can pull the rubber boot off of the clutch fork and then peer in through the window. Get a little flash-light and a dental mirror to help you get the right perspective and look around.

 

[1990ggsxnj]

Hmmmmmm...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif

 

Quoting 1990ggsxnj:
Yea, I will try. It came to mind but I disregarded it since the clutch was working fine before. It's also a stock clutch. Will see what happens. Going to remove the line to see if more air comes up when the bleeder is above the reservoir. Only problem is even if either of these problems WERE apparent, the fork is still moving to the end of it's travel. As suggested previously, I'm going to measure the travel. Once I get a number I'll compare to my GGSX that hasn't been pulled apart and see if there's any variation. Other than that, I think we're going to have to break the tranny from the block again to see if anything is wrong with the clutch that was on there.



You more than likely have a blown clutch. (had the same problems as you)
Went and bought the fork, pivot ball, TOB w/retaining clip and an Extended Slave cylinder rod.

Since i had to take the transmission out to replace the parts above, i noticed i was missing 5 springs. Swapped in a stocker and its rolling now.

 

[1990ggsxnj]

Turned out the clutch disk was rusted to the pressure plate. We even drove the car hard with the clutch in to get it unstuck if that were the case and it was still stuck!

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.