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Interesting find.

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I was looking around trying to find some cheap extended wheel studs and I came across this site.
Looking around I found these 4WS delete bars for the 3000GT/Stealth and was wondering if would work on VR4's too.

4WS delete arms

If these work I think its a great way to eliminate active toe and delete 4WS cant bet the price either.
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
The weld up is better than either example IMOHO & if you can weld will cost you two bushings. about $3 for me & then I'm installing polly bushings.
 

I'm actually taking mine in for an alignment Sunday, I have a ridiculous amount of toe on the drivers side. I don't know what it's supposed to look like stock or modified under there, but I don't have functioning 4ws. (I can see that the ps line is plugged with a bolt and my 4ws light is on)

What should I look for/make sure is done to the rear before I take it in for alignment?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

curtis

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Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
Damn why can't we have tech threads like that anymore.......
 

Quoting SouthCaliVR4:
The weld up is better than either example IMOHO & if you can weld will cost you two bushings. about $3 for me & then I'm installing polly bushings.



Please tell me how this is done? I'm in there now and looking to make the delete correct.
 

SouthCaliVR4

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Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
984
Location
North county San Diego
The quick way: remove the trailing arms & cut the rubber out of the forward end till it's slightly below the level of the collar that ends the tube of the trailing arm. go to the hardware store & get the biggest thickest washers they sell. At lowes it was 1 1/16th and about an 8th of an inch thick. you'll need two, get a few in case you f*#k one up.

Cut the two washers in half. grind the center hole open till the two halves will come together around The end link pin. In a perfect world the outside diameter will be slightly less than the outside of the collar but close will do.

Weld them to the link & the housing. the remaining rubber inside will hold the link in the correct position so its a no brainer, you don't remove the pivot bolt either. just weld the pin to the collar using the washers as large spacers, the bolt keeps things lined up & triangulated for strength.

bam your done, grind the welds pretty paint them up & put em back.

You'll need an alignment with the rear toe set to zero OE is -3 I think & you will be scrubbing tires at that setting with this mod.

Mine are fully welded with the bolt & all rubber/plastic removed but that gets complicated maintaining all the correct geometry & I wouldn't have a clue how to impart how to do it. If I ever have any free time I could to photo step by step but honestly, the method above works just fine.
 
Last edited:

H05TYL

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
Location
Wgtn, NZ
I did the above but cut my own 'C' shaped washers out of 5mm steel plate, made them an interference fit and welded them aswell for good luck.
 
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