innovate lc-1 wideband installation

[mooserage]

Just giving my quick two cents on this, as I have been running the LC-1 for about a year and a half. If you can afford it or find the time, get a new O2 bung welded in down stream. I have been driving my car very little in the last couple years, and its only seen above 4500RPM a select few times during those years. My O2 sensors have only lasted a little over a year in the stock location, I don't drive hard, but my long trips across the state (5hrs about 8 times/year) obviously took a lot of life out of the O2. I always let the sensor warm up too, but it just won't last with so much heat there. If welding is not your friend, you might try this: AEM No Weld Bung

Good luck with the install, it took me about an hour, but was really surprisingly easy, most time was spend running wires around.
-shamus

 

[yeti]

im gonna call the exhaust shop and see what they will charge to weld the bung on.





where the hell is a 12volt siwtchspt ive been probing around for about a half hour and the highest i got was .0053
while the car was running

 

[OMFGeofffff]

Do you have a turbo timer harness? That would be ideal. Otherwise, try the wires coming out of the ignition.

 

[yeti]

Ya but I messed up one of it power connections so its not working.

I probed some wires on the ignition I got nothing I'll try more tommarow I'm not with the car anymore.

 

[broxma]

There is switched and constant power going to the radio and switched power to the lighter.
If you bought an LC-1 kit from innovative, it also should have come with a red LED and a push button switch to set the free air calibration. If you plan on hooking that up, it will be the most confusing part. I just reconnected one in my Evo tonight so it's fresh on my mind.

/brox

 

[yeti]

OK so im pissed!!!!!

i have it all connected up to the free air calibration point

and i go to switch my 12volt power and nothing.........the power i soldered to was 12v constant so i need to find something with a 12v switched power. i destroyed my hazards, Air conditioner button(didnt work already),and my power door locks dont work anymore.

i tapped the back of the radio and the lighter and got 0.067 volts so i DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO. im basically looking for someone who knows where a 12v switched power is, anyone got a pic of which wire...

and to answer probably all of my questions.

when probing for a 12v switched power do the probes have to be on the same wire or touching diffrent wires that ive already probed open(like on the back of the lighter theres 4 wires) I probed 2 of them and another question, am i supposed to put both probes into the same wire. or maybe find a ground with one probe then probe around in the wires until i get 12v /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[jepherz]

I'd take your car to a shop, it sounds like you are probing around live wires without really knowing where to start honestly. What are you probing with? It sounds like you're using a multimeter since you came up with actual voltage readings. The ignition would be where you would want to tap into, which is the blue plug in your pic. However, as was mentioned above, you're better off getting a turbo timer harness as they are super cheap and you won't hack up the factory wiring. Any wiring diagram for our cars will show which wire is hot when. If you have an aftermarket radio, the yellow wire is constant 12v I believe, and red is switched.

 

[yeti]

How much is a good price for the lc1 installation.
I'll be trying more today hopefully

 

[yeti]

I just finished the installation. I couldent get the red led to flash. Or do the free air calibration.

I could only make it light up when touching the ground to the 12v ignititon switch and I held it there and nothing but smoke and a yellow burn mark on my finger.

So I have it set up and am just waiting on the o2 sensor removal tool.

Oh and the gauge and lc1 is hooked up 2 the ignitions switch

 

[jepherz]

what? I'm confused what you grounded. You hooked the LED straight up to 12 volts and ground?

 

[yeti]

i did everything you told me to. i grounded one side of the led and push button and the others i hooked up to the calibration wire.

what happens when you skip the FREE air calibration point.

cause my gauge is all hooked up, and im trying to remove the o2 sensor now.

for the o2 sensor removal i have to 1 hit with pb blaster 2 let car get HOT and use breaker bar..(which i dont have)

 

[yeti]

I can't get the o2 sensor out it is stuck!!.
Should I hit it with a torch
I put a dent in my down pipe from the 02 sensor tool.