The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Fuel upgrade

diambo4life

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
316
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I don't have a Walbro 255 pump here with me but that's what I normally use. Coincidentally...I do have the Walbro 400lph pump sitting here and I mic'd the outside diameter of the outlet. It came out to be 0.3638" and the "barb" part was 0.3916". A 3/8" inside diameter hose = 0.375".
 
Last edited:

DSSA

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2002
Messages
579
Location
PA
Quoting LIV4PSI:
The ones on my car weren't aluminum, nylon sounds right. I would have said plastic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Prove It, I'm also not sure if I trust basic Jegs/Summit brand lines. I think that is part of the reason for the fuel smell on my Subaru. Plus the weird routing of lines. But since the OP has decided on Russell classic lines, it's another topic



The standard SS/braided lines leaking fuel vapors are the reason we've stopped using them. If you're running full race gas, or are lucky enough to not have oxygenated/ethanol blend fuels, you'll probably be fine for some time.

Nate's Maroon car was obnoxious when he first dropped it off over here. 5800 sq/ft. shop, and from the time we shut the doors around 8-9pm until the next morning around 9:30am, the whole shop reeked of fuel.

It typically takes some time for this to happen, but that's why we've gone to the pains of using the PTFE lined hose which doesn't degrade over time like the rubber hose. The PITA aspect is that they're not field serviceable--meaning you can't just order lines and fittings and put them together. They have to be crimped at something like 3000psi.

As for the fittings and hose being "off brand", yes, they are. They're produced with no labeling on them on purpose. However, they're the same stock that a lot of large name hydraulics/fluids companies use, and the place we have build these for us are the same place as the ones marketed by by AMS, etc.

We can also sell you bulk hose and fittings of the regular braided rubber line cheaper than JEGS/Summit/Etc., if you still wish to use that setup, but you can't compare pricing of our PTFE lined kits against their regular bulk hose/fittings kits.
 

DSSA

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2002
Messages
579
Location
PA
Craig,

Sorry--wanted to mention your issue as well since I used your post to reply to the whole thread.

Have you inspected the check valves above the tank on your STI?

Subaru had a recall on a few years for this issue, but upon research, it seems as though even cars not within the production range of the recall are affected.

My wife's 2006 WRX Wagon (outside of Subaru's recall) was horrible this winter during cold snaps. Seems as though the valves in the rear don't seal well enough to handle the contraction due to that type of temperature extreme. As soon as we hit 35+ degree temps it disappeared, but would come back whenever we'd dip back into the 20s. I had a lot of customers come in experiencing the same issue.

Just something to consider before you chase down vapors due to lines/fittings.

Josh
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
I haven't checked the check valve, but I will if the problem persists. Thank you Josh
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top