toybreaker- I actually dont have a front motor mount currently.....my turbo is way to big for that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif , even after putting a 3/4" spacer on the ex. manifold I still had the grind the block down a little to clear the ex. housing on the turbo lol. I have the galant transmission mount (chassis side) in use with the t/e/l (transmission side) and the galant rear motor mount (chassis side) in use with the t/e/l (motor side)...if that made any sense....., thanks for the input and compliment :-D....its going to be alot of work but I am sure it'll be worth it :-D
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mr.mitsu- Thank for that info, it is indeed interesting...I am still not sure why lol
Another update, I finally have the motor installed :-D.....I might have it fired up tomorrow or next week....depending on free time as the only thing really left to do (for it to run) is to install the ecu, make brackets for the oil cooler and make brackets/mount my dual oil filter relocation kit.......aside from that she should fire up and run pretty good.......she's still a little far from being street ready but is getting alot closer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Question, I had to move my radiator a inch or so forward to clear my turbo.....and I was trying to figure out where/how the condensor bolts/mounts......but i have yet to figure it out.....perhaps b/c my radiator is now in its spot?
I am waiting to get more big tubing so i can turn it 90* down and install the big air filter inside the fender /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (or just putting a bigger filter on the current config and build a air box....one of the two
I am still trying to figure out what the center bracket is, where the windshield wiper fluid resevior is trying to mount.......and if that power steering pump bracket will bolt to my 2g-esque motor............
Question, I had to move my radiator a inch or so forward to clear my turbo.....and I was trying to figure out where/how the condensor bolts/mounts......but i have yet to figure it out.....perhaps b/c my radiator is now in its spot?
I am waiting to get more big tubing so i can turn it 90* down and install the big air filter inside the fender /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif (or just putting a bigger filter on the current config and build a air box....one of the two
I am still trying to figure out what the center bracket is, where the windshield wiper fluid resevior is trying to mount.......and if that power steering pump bracket will bolt to my 2g-esque motor............
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Boostdtalon
Well-known member
IIRC the wiper reservoir bolts to the back of the passenger side strut tower.
boostdtalon- Thanks,I will give that a look tomorrow /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
*update* I finally got the motor wired up and everything, had to replace the radiator because the one that came with it was busted.....luckily I had a nice oem style aluminum core laying around that I picked up a couple of years ago (I guess back then I knew I would be needing it now lol)........also found and fixed a very annoying/small water leak that I had yay!
Now onto the other side of things, the motor turns over....and turns over much faster then my other cars oddly enough.......however I am not getting fuel (untill I get fuel I dont know about spark either)....the motor ran perfect before I pulled it so I doubt there are probelms there, however I am not sure if it is the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, ecu etc. I am trying to dig out my old palm so I can hook up to the obd port and pull the CEL and hopefully test the fuel pump ( I tried giving 12 v to the jumper wire near the master cylinder but it didnt seem to do anything).......also the fuel gage shows like 1/8 tank of gas.....I added a couple of gallons and it didnt change but perhaps it wasnt enough to register? I also am not getting oil pressure yet.........but perhaps it just has alot of air in the lines (spun the motor over about 4 times at 10 seconds each).
Hoping to spend some more time on it tomorrow, if not then perhaps next week /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Now onto the other side of things, the motor turns over....and turns over much faster then my other cars oddly enough.......however I am not getting fuel (untill I get fuel I dont know about spark either)....the motor ran perfect before I pulled it so I doubt there are probelms there, however I am not sure if it is the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, ecu etc. I am trying to dig out my old palm so I can hook up to the obd port and pull the CEL and hopefully test the fuel pump ( I tried giving 12 v to the jumper wire near the master cylinder but it didnt seem to do anything).......also the fuel gage shows like 1/8 tank of gas.....I added a couple of gallons and it didnt change but perhaps it wasnt enough to register? I also am not getting oil pressure yet.........but perhaps it just has alot of air in the lines (spun the motor over about 4 times at 10 seconds each).
Hoping to spend some more time on it tomorrow, if not then perhaps next week /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Just thought i'd give a quick update, engine runs on starter fluid for a second 
.......fuel pump doesnt seem to be doing anything so I am saving up a little and trying to decide whether to go back with stock , evo8 or a 255......probably whatever winds up being the best deal and I can get the quickest. Aside from that I think I killed my starter trying to prime the engine.....yay for autozone warranties (got a new one today).....the motor would turn over a little then make a weird grinding/clunking noise.........it frightened me at first b/c I hadnt got oil pressure yet but luckily it looks like it was the starter, and the motor turns over by hand nicely.
Anyhow been busy working on my 38' gooseneck......still not sure how I am going to convert the rear to 5 lug and retain AWS.......but i'll look into that later, also slightly considering a electric power steering pump off a 2g MR2...one less thing to bolt to the motor and then perhaps I could swap to the 4 bolt rear end and still retain AWS ? (if I recall right the stock 3 bolt has a PS pump built in...but aside from that its the same as the 4 bolt?)
Ill provide pictures in the next week or so........hopefully she'll be on the road running nice within the next month or two :-D
.......fuel pump doesnt seem to be doing anything so I am saving up a little and trying to decide whether to go back with stock , evo8 or a 255......probably whatever winds up being the best deal and I can get the quickest. Aside from that I think I killed my starter trying to prime the engine.....yay for autozone warranties (got a new one today).....the motor would turn over a little then make a weird grinding/clunking noise.........it frightened me at first b/c I hadnt got oil pressure yet but luckily it looks like it was the starter, and the motor turns over by hand nicely.Anyhow been busy working on my 38' gooseneck......still not sure how I am going to convert the rear to 5 lug and retain AWS.......but i'll look into that later, also slightly considering a electric power steering pump off a 2g MR2...one less thing to bolt to the motor and then perhaps I could swap to the 4 bolt rear end and still retain AWS ? (if I recall right the stock 3 bolt has a PS pump built in...but aside from that its the same as the 4 bolt?)
Ill provide pictures in the next week or so........hopefully she'll be on the road running nice within the next month or two :-D
Boostdtalon
Well-known member
my car is swapped and still has the AWS even though it's not working at the moment since lines are partially disconnected.
boostdtalon- I assume by swapped your referring to the 4 bolt swap.....unless I have read bad info on the net (which is possible) I am not sure I understand how you could even have a working AWS with the 4 bolt rear? I thought the stock 3 bolt rear had a power steering pump for the rear steering rack? If you removed that pump seems like the rear steer wouldnt really react when you turned the wheel? Perhaps I am missing something though because i'd love to retain AWS and eventually attempt to improve on it stock design but i'd also like the additional strength of a 4 bolt and the ability to use my 5 lug rims.
On a partial side note, i havent decided if its worth it or not to try and keep the ABS......I have read a couple different posts taking about swapping the abs rings or using different hubs, swapping computers etc. etc. Is there a easy way to have a 4 bolt rear, aws gvr4 with ABS? The only reason I am curious isnt really for the alleged benefit of emergency braking but more because it would allow me to eventually look into enabling a traction control system that would/could apply a certain amout of brake at a certain corner given a particular algorithim. I understand this gvr4 isnt a high end sports car in todays standards but i'd like to leave my options open if possible for some interesting upgrades in the future :-D.
On a partial side note, i havent decided if its worth it or not to try and keep the ABS......I have read a couple different posts taking about swapping the abs rings or using different hubs, swapping computers etc. etc. Is there a easy way to have a 4 bolt rear, aws gvr4 with ABS? The only reason I am curious isnt really for the alleged benefit of emergency braking but more because it would allow me to eventually look into enabling a traction control system that would/could apply a certain amout of brake at a certain corner given a particular algorithim. I understand this gvr4 isnt a high end sports car in todays standards but i'd like to leave my options open if possible for some interesting upgrades in the future :-D.
Boostdtalon
Well-known member
Sorry I meant I have 5 lug swap.
BrandonEchols
Well-known member
You can swap the 4-bolt LSD internals into the 3-bolt pumpkin, and use the 4-bolt axles, there's info on it somewhere in the How-To section, I think. I'll look around for it.
Edit - here are a couple threads with some info:
Click
Click
For a 5-lug rear, you can swap in the trailing arms from the 3000GT VR4, and they had 4WS, so you can keep that as well.
I'm not sure about keepting the ABS with the 3000GT trailing arms and 4bolt-in-a-3bolt housing though.
I'm also Very interested in hearing more about your Holset arrangement. I just picked one up locally, and I'm exploring the options with the VGT (mechanical vs. electronic, and what's available), so any info or advice would be awesome.
Edit - here are a couple threads with some info:
Click
Click
For a 5-lug rear, you can swap in the trailing arms from the 3000GT VR4, and they had 4WS, so you can keep that as well.
I'm not sure about keepting the ABS with the 3000GT trailing arms and 4bolt-in-a-3bolt housing though.
I'm also Very interested in hearing more about your Holset arrangement. I just picked one up locally, and I'm exploring the options with the VGT (mechanical vs. electronic, and what's available), so any info or advice would be awesome.
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Boostdtalon- Gotcha my bad /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.......so you just swapped the hubs off say an eclipse? did everything bolt up? I ask because when I looked at some part numbers the rear hubs were different for the gvr4 then the t/e/l and i wasnt sure if that was only due to them being 4 lug or not.
brandonechols - Interesting so what was the benefit of using the vr4 trailing arms? What would I need to make that work (elcipse rear hubs or vr4 hubs?) I havent had alot of time to scrutinize the gvr4 rear end yet but im hoping to have some free time over the week end to find out better where my problem areas will be. I am just looking for the cheapest easiest way to retain AWS and goto a 5 lug......i'd like to have the 4 bolt strength but at the moment I am not too worried about it......however I did get a fairly complete rear subframe from a t/e/l with a 4 bolt when I bought the car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
As far as the holset goes.....obviously if you can do it electronically thats the "best" way as you get alot more control and tunability with it....however with my setup i would have needed to flip the turbo around to get the electronics to fit......as a matter of fact I have a 3/4" spacer on my ex. manifold and had the grind the block down just a little b/c the ex.housing on the turbo was hitting....that turbo is huge lol. Basically what I did is I removed the electronics and took 1/8" steel plate to block off the water ports that coolled the electronics (still helps cool the rest of the turbo as I run it water and oil cooled). I then welded a stud onto the lever arm on the turbo that moves teh vanes, attached a rod from that to a linkage that I built. This linkage used one of the L brackets off a transmission shifter linkage, which had the small end attached to a 14-b wastegate actuator and the long end connected to the rod that goes to the turbo.....so as I boost it pushes the linkage which pushes the rod which makes the turbo "bigger"....not the most elegant solution but it seems to work. Evntually I will replace the wastegate actuator with a electronic linear actuator so I can have full control over when/where the vanes on the turbo open. I will try to find a couple of shots showing my contraptions in the next few days and upload them for you.
brandonechols - Interesting so what was the benefit of using the vr4 trailing arms? What would I need to make that work (elcipse rear hubs or vr4 hubs?) I havent had alot of time to scrutinize the gvr4 rear end yet but im hoping to have some free time over the week end to find out better where my problem areas will be. I am just looking for the cheapest easiest way to retain AWS and goto a 5 lug......i'd like to have the 4 bolt strength but at the moment I am not too worried about it......however I did get a fairly complete rear subframe from a t/e/l with a 4 bolt when I bought the car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
As far as the holset goes.....obviously if you can do it electronically thats the "best" way as you get alot more control and tunability with it....however with my setup i would have needed to flip the turbo around to get the electronics to fit......as a matter of fact I have a 3/4" spacer on my ex. manifold and had the grind the block down just a little b/c the ex.housing on the turbo was hitting....that turbo is huge lol. Basically what I did is I removed the electronics and took 1/8" steel plate to block off the water ports that coolled the electronics (still helps cool the rest of the turbo as I run it water and oil cooled). I then welded a stud onto the lever arm on the turbo that moves teh vanes, attached a rod from that to a linkage that I built. This linkage used one of the L brackets off a transmission shifter linkage, which had the small end attached to a 14-b wastegate actuator and the long end connected to the rod that goes to the turbo.....so as I boost it pushes the linkage which pushes the rod which makes the turbo "bigger"....not the most elegant solution but it seems to work. Evntually I will replace the wastegate actuator with a electronic linear actuator so I can have full control over when/where the vanes on the turbo open. I will try to find a couple of shots showing my contraptions in the next few days and upload them for you.
BrandonEchols
Well-known member
Sounds interesting...thanks for the info.
Pics would be great...also, how did you have your FMIC set up? I'm curious about possibly using a top-to-bottom flow setup because of the elbow on the Holset's turbine housing.
The 3000GT trailing arms is fairly straight forward from what I've read, they swap right in, make your rear track about 10mm wider, and give you drum-in-disk for the handbrake.
All you have to worry about I think is the E-brake cable, but I think that's fairly easy.
RedTwo has done it, as have a couple other members...
Pics would be great...also, how did you have your FMIC set up? I'm curious about possibly using a top-to-bottom flow setup because of the elbow on the Holset's turbine housing.
The 3000GT trailing arms is fairly straight forward from what I've read, they swap right in, make your rear track about 10mm wider, and give you drum-in-disk for the handbrake.
All you have to worry about I think is the E-brake cable, but I think that's fairly easy.
RedTwo has done it, as have a couple other members...
brandonecholes-On the eclipse I was running a evo3 FMIC and since the "j pipe" on the turbo points towards the RF wheel I made tubing the did a 90* bend went passed the radiator on the passenger side then did another 90*at the front bumper and ran down the left side of the front bumper till I got the the FMIC and made a 180*........... after the FMIC is your preference I was using a dejon intercooler tubing that made me come up where the old air box was. I will post a few pictures below of my linkage setup and how close the turbo is to the block. (3rd picture...make it bigger and peak between the exhaust ports)
So is the only benefit to using the 3kgt trailing arms is so that you can have a functional ebrake? again I havent looked very long underneath my car to understand the difficulties yet...but I will probably be doing some reasearch under the car tomorrow :-D
**update**
The engine now runs under its own power :-D.....I got a walboro 190 and 2-stage EBC for $90 locally so I swapped that in today......and drained the fuel tank since that fuel had been siting for I think 1.5 or 2 years.....anyhow here are a few pics.......note that I am currently NOT running a FMIC........mainly b/c I am going to be running low boost for a short while and I am sourcing a new front bumper so I didnt want to start making my intercooler tubing just to have to redo it lol. Also when I got the fuel pump it didnt have a sock so I went to autozone and get one for like $8.50 part number shown in pictures......I didnt get a wiring kit so I just took the old wires that had the 0-ring, chopped it off, and put two taps on it (one for postive and one for negative). I'd also like to note that my eclipse has a 255 in it and it is LOUD (and has no interior) when I cranked the car up tonight I couldnt even hear the pump....which I guess is good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
yummy bucket of old fuel
So is the only benefit to using the 3kgt trailing arms is so that you can have a functional ebrake? again I havent looked very long underneath my car to understand the difficulties yet...but I will probably be doing some reasearch under the car tomorrow :-D
**update**
The engine now runs under its own power :-D.....I got a walboro 190 and 2-stage EBC for $90 locally so I swapped that in today......and drained the fuel tank since that fuel had been siting for I think 1.5 or 2 years.....anyhow here are a few pics.......note that I am currently NOT running a FMIC........mainly b/c I am going to be running low boost for a short while and I am sourcing a new front bumper so I didnt want to start making my intercooler tubing just to have to redo it lol. Also when I got the fuel pump it didnt have a sock so I went to autozone and get one for like $8.50 part number shown in pictures......I didnt get a wiring kit so I just took the old wires that had the 0-ring, chopped it off, and put two taps on it (one for postive and one for negative). I'd also like to note that my eclipse has a 255 in it and it is LOUD (and has no interior) when I cranked the car up tonight I couldnt even hear the pump....which I guess is good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
yummy bucket of old fuel
Small update.....I finally think I know where the drain is occuring on my batter.......as I was chekcing the engine for leaks I turn the motor off and still heard a small humming noise....as it turns out it seems to be from my alternator......I am doing a little reasearch now but it seems like when I swapped in the saturn/gm alternator there a particular wire, a sensing wire I think, that is supposed to be connected to a switched 12-v source...I guess mine wasnt and is slowly draining my battery. On a different note I found a little extra tubing and rerouted my air filter, pictures will follow below. Lastly I am doing a little research but after having to replace a coolant line on the back (for the heater core) I fired up the car with the t-stat wiring disconnected and had no CEL's....when I plugged it back in (with the car running) I got a CEL....I will have double check my wiring tomorrow. Since my turbo is too big for a stock style fan to go back on I am putting some smaller elecric fans on, I was/am wanting to tie it in to the factory harness so that it will turn off and on automatically as needed........I found the stock fan and cut the plug/harness/theromocouple? off and spliced it into my new fan....I couldnt find the sensor/port to plug the little white two wire cap in but after researching I think it plugs into the bottom of the radiator somwhere, however I have no idea where the harness is supposed to plug up for the 2nd fan unless its just hidden somewhere..........anyhow thats all the update for now.
Quick question........the tranny and xfer case in my eclipse matched and worked well........when I swapped the motor/tranny/xfer case to the gvr4 I was unsure if the rear gear was the same or not. My low budget test was to hold one wheel steady and spin the tire over one revolution.....when doing this I counted 1.75 drive shaft revolutions on both cars.......so is it safe to assume they have the same gear? (eclipse has 4 bolt...not sure if that helps or hurts.
Thanks!
Thanks!
BrandonEchols
Well-known member
To my knowledge all USDM GVR4s and DSMs had the same transmission and rear diff ratios, so any of the transmissions and diffs should interchange.
Brandonechols- Awesome, although if I recall correctly I do think there is a difference in ratios between the automatics and manuals......although no gvr4's came automatic. Thanks for your response as I thought i'd double check since having one xfer lock up on me was one too many lol.
BrandonEchols
Well-known member
That's correct.
Sorry, I should've stated all manual transmission GVR4s and DSMs have the same ratios, at least stateside.
Overseas saw some different arrangements in final drive ratio of 3.909 , whereas ours is 3.545 IIRC.
Sorry, I should've stated all manual transmission GVR4s and DSMs have the same ratios, at least stateside.
Overseas saw some different arrangements in final drive ratio of 3.909 , whereas ours is 3.545 IIRC.
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