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Exhaust Dimensions

Gimpin

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
557
Location
Plant City, FL
does any body know the dimensions of the exhaust? I am looking to build my own and need to know how much pipe to pick up. I plan to make a down pipe as well. Routing will be straight back and 1 90 behind the diff and 90 straight out the back.
 

12ft of straight, either 2 90s or 2 45s. The downpipe is a pain, buy a megan racing.
 

Gimpin

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Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
557
Location
Plant City, FL
details on why the dp is a pain /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 

I just hate doing them. I have built like 10 of them, but they suck the first 90 should really be like a 70* bend. the other stuff is easy, but I guess I am just over them.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
I think Jon means 2 90*s or 4 45*s. That's at least what I'd recommend.

For the downpipe, RRE sells a 72* bend in 2.5" that is perfect. My only complaint is that it is 304 stainless.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I just found part of a 3" downpipe in my storage that i don't need. It's 3" mandrel bent from about 1.5" past the o2 flange and was cut off just before the flex section. Come to Seattle and you can have it for 20 bucks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Really, though.. a mandrel bend usually costs that much, so if you want this piece, let me know. I think if i had to ship it, it would end up being more like $35 and not really worth it, since you can get a brand new shiny 3" DP for 90 off ebay.
 

Quoting jepherz:
For the downpipe, RRE sells a 72* bend in 2.5" that is perfect. My only complaint is that it is 304 stainless.



Why? Stainless FTW! Plus you can MIG stainless to mild with stainless filler and Tri-mix if you don't have access to a TIG.
 

I used a 72* bend, flex section, and flanges from RRE to build a dp and it came out beautifully.
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
Quoting number638:
Quoting jepherz:
For the downpipe, RRE sells a 72* bend in 2.5" that is perfect. My only complaint is that it is 304 stainless.



Why? Stainless FTW! Plus you can MIG stainless to mild with stainless filler and Tri-mix if you don't have access to a TIG.



304 is crap, that's why.
 

pachood_1953

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2006
Messages
737
Location
eau claire, wi
I tried to do mine as absolute budget as possible.

I did the whole thing with:

-Turbo flange from RRE
-90* bend for the DP (which I kind of cocked in the flange..complete pita to make it work right)
-10 foot stick of aluminized straight
-Ebay flex section
-2 45*s to get around the pumpkin.
-Cheap OBX muffler

I think I had it done in the 175-200 dollar range.

Dont mind the WI rust, and the gobs of weld...Thats a different story.

IMG_1499.jpg
 

CarRacer

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Joined
Jun 28, 2007
Messages
4,371
Location
Shakopee, MN
^ Thats an interesting spot for the flex section. How is your weld at the turbo flange holding up?
 

Quoting jepherz:
Quoting number638:
Quoting jepherz:
For the downpipe, RRE sells a 72* bend in 2.5" that is perfect. My only complaint is that it is 304 stainless.



Why? Stainless FTW! Plus you can MIG stainless to mild with stainless filler and Tri-mix if you don't have access to a TIG.



304 is crap, that's why.



304 stainless does not "Suck"

My head is spinning...What!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
Last edited by a moderator:

pachood_1953

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2006
Messages
737
Location
eau claire, wi
Quoting CarRacer:
^ Thats an interesting spot for the flex section. How is your weld at the turbo flange holding up?



My whole exhaust didnt quite fit like I wanted, and that seemed to be the best place for a little wiggle to make the rest work..As you can see, its a little bent there.

The weld is fine, but its only got 300 miles on it.

And those welds are the love child of a REALLY crappy surging, and studdering welder, and a guy who had been out of the game for a few years.
 

Gimpin

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
557
Location
Plant City, FL
Quoting mitsuturbo:
I just found part of a 3" downpipe in my storage that i don't need. It's 3" mandrel bent from about 1.5" past the o2 flange and was cut off just before the flex section. Come to Seattle and you can have it for 20 bucks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Really, though.. a mandrel bend usually costs that much, so if you want this piece, let me know. I think if i had to ship it, it would end up being more like $35 and not really worth it, since you can get a brand new shiny 3" DP for 90 off ebay.



thanks for your offer ... I am going to try to make it myself. I was able to pick up 19' of 3" amluminum and 3 90* mandrel alum bends for $100. Does anybody know a cheap place to buy 2 bold flanges?
 

jepherz

Staff member
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
7,877
Location
KC, Missouri
Quoting number638:
304 stainless does not "Suck"

My head is spinning...What!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif



My only point was that 321 is better, so if you build your exhaust off 321 and buy the 72* bent from RRE, it will corrode unlike the 321.
 

TylerAdamson

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
1,034
Location
Iowa City, Iowa
Quoting Gimpin:
Quoting mitsuturbo:
I just found part of a 3" downpipe in my storage that i don't need. It's 3" mandrel bent from about 1.5" past the o2 flange and was cut off just before the flex section. Come to Seattle and you can have it for 20 bucks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Really, though.. a mandrel bend usually costs that much, so if you want this piece, let me know. I think if i had to ship it, it would end up being more like $35 and not really worth it, since you can get a brand new shiny 3" DP for 90 off ebay.



thanks for your offer ... I am going to try to make it myself. I was able to pick up 19' of 3" amluminum and 3 90* mandrel alum bends for $100. Does anybody know a cheap place to buy 2 bold flanges?



Check out ATP Turbo for flanges. Kind of curious why you opted to go aluminum over stainless/aluminized steel though.
 

fivestardsm

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Middle, Michigan
I am a little curious as to the aluminum exhasust. I assume that there is a good reason that no one does it, but would like to see a realworld test of it.

Keep us posted on it with pics.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Aluminum works. But you have to get thick walled aluminum. While I worked at Southside Performance we built a experimental aluminum exhaust for the GT-R. It is light, can handle the heat and is cheaper than titanium. However I would not use it within about two of the turbo cause It may get too hot. When we built the exhaust we went from about three feet back then used aluminum. The only real drawback to using it is that you need to use piping with about a quarter inch wall. So a three inch exhaust then has a 3 a half inch OD. So there could be clearance issues. You can get pre bent piping for bends.

It held up to 500 wheel dyno pulls over and over again and what was cool was that after about two minutes of cool off you could touch the pipe. Yes we did test it on the street.
 
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