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Evo MR with Swift Springs setup

ExplicitCC

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
49
Location
Lake elsinore, CA
What's up guys, so finally I got a good deal on a Evo MR Bilsteins with swift springs arround 30k on them, I've been looking in the how to, and don't know if to hack them or buy the bracket, what do you guys think hack or bracket? There is no thread that says witch is a better way, some say bracket because there is no hacking others hacking because of hight..... so for those who have done it your advice is needed, TYA
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
are you talking about the rears? if so the only down side to hacking them is when you have them welded you need to be careful not to heat the strut up to much. i have mine hacked with stock 1g bottoms welded in. i love them, but i have no experience with the brackets.
 

ExplicitCC

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
49
Location
Lake elsinore, CA
Yes rears, I have a tein camber control for the front
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
I would go with the 3000GT adapter/brackets for a bolt in job and having the ability to lower the rear just a fraction more than you would with the eye welded on. However apparently the pin diameter is slightly different between the 3000GT and the Galant VR-4.
 

transparentdsm

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
could you show us what it looks like? i have been thinking of sourcing another set of rear shocks as i wanted to try the adapters, but didn't want to struggle with fitment. also would you be willing to make more? if so i will buy a set just to have in the event i ever do get them or any variation of a evo 8/9 suspension.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
If someone makes some collars that would be great. I want to put some Heim joints on the rear EVO JIC coilovers, but only ones I found are 22mm ID, which the the 1G/GVR4 is a 21mm stud.

Having the bushing welded is the easiest and gives a comfy ride. Any competent TIG welder can do it for under 40bucks and not mess up the shock. I've had several over the years done, never had an issue.
 

KiNgMaRtY

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2008
Messages
836
Location
Corona, CA
I used the bolt on adapter. It was a perfect fit on my Evo 9 V3 KW's. Pics can be seen here: click
 
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Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
Why not just buy the bracket I had mine welded but it really burns the hell out of that 20+ year plus old bushing. And if you ever wanna upgrade to different evo suspension you already have the brackets.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
A good NOT rushed TIG weld will not burn the bushings, at least just barely. I ran them for 20k with zero bushing issue.
 

Vr4junkie

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
596
Location
Some wack town in CA
I had mine mig welded probably that’s why but there still good how much do the brackets even go for?
 

pagosadsm

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
57
Location
pagosa springs colorado
I am a beginner on the lathe. If I remember the bushing was only 2-3 mm thick . both shock have the same contour but the 3000gt is slightly larger. I can take a photo at the end of the week. As far as making some, they won't be perfect because of my ability on the lathe and the liability of making suspension parts.
Rick
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Already stated the size. GVR4 has a 21mm stud where the evo/3KGT has 22mm stud. You'll need to carve down a piece of stainless steel to .5mm thick, easy huh. The sleeve will need to be able to take the load of 750lbs of static weight, more when the suspension is loaded under acceleration, so no cheap metal. Once cut, you'll need to have it pressed into the bushing used, since any play is unwanted. So your lathe cut will need to be precise to prevent movement in the sleeve, which would cause unwanted wear and noise.

G and I have thoroughly discussed this in the past, that's why I just welded in the damn rubber bushings.

The other option I want to explore in the near future will be removing the 21mm stud and replacing with the 22mm stud instead. Once I pull the rear sub frame out for cleaning and rebuild, I'll dig into that project. Honestly, I think that may result in an easier fix.
 
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pagosadsm

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
57
Location
pagosa springs colorado
I built my about 3 years ago to this date with no problem. I used cold rolled 1" sold stock. I am sure it was 2-3mm thick. I could not machine 1mm on my old lathe. So if I did something wrong
prove it
Rick
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Pic?
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
I have no pics. Like I said, I haven't fabbed anything up yet. It's all research and theory. I'd like to see how you did yours since you made a custom set-up relevant to the thread discussion. At this point your attempting to prove me wrong, which I always welcome, and attempting to show the OP how this can be done.

So, post a link or better yet pictures on here for future knowledge to help us grow.
 
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