Can someone identify what's wrong

[Steve885]

Missed shifted at 50mph from 3rd to 2nd..went pretty high revs then started hearing some engine noise..thoughtcitcwas the tranny (like I broke a tooth )pulled over popped the hood the noise seemed to be comeing from timing belt area .when I took the cove off the belt was off center rubbing on the driver side of the cover..I turned off the car moved it over restarted it and it moved back..I only had a couple blocks to go so I drove it home rubbing..I went out to check it out this morning and this is what I found...

 

[turbowop]

Something let loose. Probably the tensioner. Cross your fingers you didn't bend valves. Looks like the cam sprockets are still lined up so that's good, but they might not be lined up with the crankshaft anymore. Time to tear into it and see.

I've done two accidental 3-2 shifts at the track in my car. Datalogs showed north of 10k rpm. Once it made all the flywheel bolts come loose, the other time I got lucky and nothing happened. It's a good way to f*** sh*t up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[dsm10o0]

Belt tensioner failure. Pop that valve cover open and check for loose rockers to see if you bent any valves.

 

[Barnes]

If the tensioner failed, it could make an enormous amount of noise as the tensioner arm rattles around. That, and the belt flopping around.

Hopefully you got lucky. Check for dislodged rockers as suggested, replace/repair as needd. Then pull the timing cover to find the offending part t-belt part. Replace the failed part. Inspect the heck out of the t-belt and an other parts. If the tensioner failed, I'd pay close attention to the tensioner arm where it touches the top of the hydraulic tensioner shaft. Make sure it isn't mushroomed or damaged because of the, what I assume, is a failed tensioner.

IMO, after replacing the bad part (presumably the tensioner) reinstall the t-belt and set the tension. Before putting the timing cover back on, and the accessory belts, start the motor. You can run the motor for a few minutes without worrying about the lack of coolant flow. (Remember you water pump isn't turning without the other belts installed.)

With those few minutes you can generally tell if the car is badly. If it sounds normal, you can perform a compression test just to make sure. If everything checks out, you got lucky. Button it all back up and continue driving!

 

[mitsuturbo]

At least the cams still appear to be timed to one another (look at the dowels). So long as the crank is timed as well, valves should be okay, unless of course you floated some.

 

[curtis]

Get ready to pull the head. From what it looks like its off one tooth and the tensioner has failed. Probably have bent valves. Take another picture so I/we can see the marks on the intake cam pulley the stupid ac hose clamp bracket thing is in the way.

 

[Steve885]

UPDATE..towed the car to a friends shop...pulled it apart and guess what nearly fell off..the idler pulley, the bolt was half way out.. Timing wise nothing lined up..looks like it might of jumped 3-4 teeth. I wish I could put my hands around the last guy in there's neck. Even the the crank pulley had a bolt broken off and the other three bolts were loose. Didn't have time to dive into the head will update Monday.

 

I fill your pain I am doing the same thing on mine

 

[GSX_TC]

Ouch, I hope you didn't bend any valves man. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[prove_it]

Have a leak down test done. Fastest way to tell if you bent valves. Given that high RPM and the tightness of these heads, I would suspect something touched. I hope you got lucky though. I had a belt break once. Not cheap. Is this a stock engine? Stock cams?

 

[snohacking]

Get ready to do a valve job. I jumper timing once by 4 teeth and 15 of the 16 valves were bent. Hopefully you will get lucky but wouldn't count on it.

 

[Steve885]

I hear that I rarely get lucky...!!!!

 

[prove_it]

On the positive side it's a good time to upgrade valves if they got bent...

 

[Steve885]

Any one have a opinion on valves a springs...

 

[prove_it]

I bought some nitrade coated valves from modern auto performance and they work great. Price isn't bad either. My head is built with BC springs and retainers, those valves and kelford 264's. The springs don't bind, but if I had to do it over I would go with EVO 8 beehive springs. They work great and allow for a bit more lift. The evo parts are rumored to be longer lasting and stock evo retainers are a bit lighter too. Used low mileage sets are out there making it a cheap alternative.

Biggest thing to remember is that you will need all new guides. Don't skip out on those, the exhaust side guides always get loose, plus if you bent valves they will be shot. Buddy of mine runs 9's in a talon with farrea guides, I used OEM in mine with no problem. I'm only making 300hp though.

 

[Vr4junkie]

there's this set click there's a few people running these with good results

 

[Steve885]

Looks like I might of majorly messed sh%# up..got the timing back together.. Did a leak down held compression but was only getting 175,140,145,175 ..and when u turn the crank you can hear a slapping noise..

 

[prove_it]

Who runs those?

 

[Vr4junkie]

do some searching I'm not ganna do it so i can prove_It to you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[curtis]

Quoting prove_it:
Who runs those?




A sh*t ton of people.....look at his feedback one neg out of 19K.....I'm sure you could do a google search for his ebay name and find results

Rumor has it these are Ferrea or Manley can't remember which but have a set of these for mine....Also if you look he also sells kits with guides and also new lifters for cheap. Like said above the evo beehive springs and retainers are bad ass and can be found cheap. There some aluminum alloy and weigh nothing and the springs are only a few pounds less on the seat that the BC or any other brand after market beehive for the evo. They're good stuff.

click me