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building of a ggsx

tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
I did my best to do that before I sent it back, but a found a few chunks to knock off this time too.

The only Valve spring tool I have is the leisel hammer spring compressor. It seems as if the grips on the outer cylinder are going to rip up the metal to the side of the spring if I use it.

Edit: New OTC 4572 valve tool on order. Also made some solid lifters for testing.

New gasket for hla pressure regulator

This was a bitch to do. Wish I had a part number for this gasket.
 
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tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
oem_evo_hla_oil_pressure_regulator2.jpg


New ones do. I don't think its available separately though. Unless there's a secret part number list I don't know about. I asked two different dealers to look it up. Both told me it was only available as an assembly.
 
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tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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ronkonkoma, ny
Well I was all ready to install my crank and rods when I noticed something odd. I put my freshly cleaned block on a freshly cleaned bench and noticed the appearance of black crumbs. After inspecting it further it was flashing material from the casting crumbling away. After almost 5 hours of scraping, grinding, and sanding, the block is out to be jet washed again. The casting is still rough but I did my best to make sure its not flaking off anywhere. This dark black sand like material is what I believe to be the debris that killed my new bearings last time around. Most of what was scraped off wasn't even magnetic. The parts that were most accessible at the bottom I smoothed up a little nicer to aid oil return.


This is what it looked like when I was just about done. Half the block had minimal flashing and casting flak but the other half was horrendous. Crumbs could be removed with your fingernail before. Almost every surface was hit with a carbide. I'm considering the idea of por15 on the inside of the block if it comes back from the jet wash rusted. But probably not. I took this time to polish the oil passages on the outside of the block more as well.
 
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tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
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Location
ronkonkoma, ny
After much procrastination I am dressing the reassembled engine. Exhaust studs were a problem today. I had 2 strip out on me. I ended up only torquing to 16# after the repairs. 18-22 is too high for this tiredold aluminum head. I used the same vw studs cut to length for the repairs. Took way longer than I'd like to report but its done well.

My intake was pretty dirty but figured it would be a waste to bother cleaning it as it would get filthy again in short order. I wiped it down and bolted it on along with the throttle body turbo hot side and all the timing stuff. Its nowhere near as clean as the first go around. Its too late for that noise.

Waiting on injector o-rings and will pick up a new flywheell locally. I'm still debaiting weather or not a new turbo oil feed line is necessary or not. What do you think?
What type of paint can be used on the inside of an oil pan? going to strip it bare wire wheel the welds and rub oil on it. Don't want to risk the contamination.
 
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tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
So GeGee once again has an engine!


I adressed many issues while she was apart.

Clutch problems:
I swaped shift forks with one that measured a little thicker at the forked end. I removed the 2.6mm washer that was shiming the pivot ball and I am now using a act street light flywheel.

Decel noise:
I now believe I have all the corect mounts brackets and crossmembers for an awd manual Galant.

Turbo oil return leak:
This is what I came up with.



Leaking water pipe was taped and plugged, and all the engine issues I had were hopefully all taken care of. I'm going to prime the engine oil with a hand pump after I finish assembly. I hope to be done by the weekend.

Also had this made:

It's a prototype bracket adaptor for a wilwood clutch master in place of the nabco unit. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif

Edit: 6/6/15
Got almost everything under the hood connected this week. Wired in a plug for my gauges and did my radio harness. Few more little things under the hood and then I will add fluids and start her up.
 
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tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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Location
ronkonkoma, ny
She is running! And what's more the clutch works properly to boot.

Slightly worysome is the presence of valve train noise, it is out of time by a few degrees. Id like to say its just noisy lifters in the garage with no hood but idk. I had the timeing light on her but pretty sure it has to be fully warmed up before the ground plug works. Now that I think about it I may have had my data log cable pluged in. I know that keeps it correcting timing advance.

Question: what's the best way to get the air out of the cooling system? I was able to get in about 1/2 of a gallon and then filled the overflow. The block is still empty so the thermostat isn't opening. I have a DSM rad and therm housing.
 

thomcasey

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Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I always remove the thermostat and fill the block first from there until it starts to flow out of the upper hose. Then I install the thermostat and tighten the housing. Then fill the system the rest of the way up using this. Spill Free Funnel

This will allow the system to burk and the block will almost be all the way full too.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,911
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Michigan
I have never had issues filling the block. As soon as the water pump is operating it should circulate water. I do also run with the rad cap off to burp as mentioned above.
 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny

I don't remember having this filling issue last time. This time I only had the front of the car on jack stands when last time she was up on all 4 corners. When I put her back on ground she drank another 1/2 gallon. Everything seemed to be fin after that. The heater was blowing hot and the coolant was also flowing through the rad.

Valve train noise went away. It was just the Lifters. They must all be pumped up now.

So I Drove her around the lake today but when I was going down hill she started to smoke. It happened twice in the same spot but nowhere else. My initial thought was it was some sort of cooling over charge, but it turned out to be oil dumping on the exhaust heat shield. I assumed it was from the valve cover and thoroughly cleaned and resealed it with a different gasket and black rtv. It was a lot of oil. I have never seen that much spill out of a valve cover before. I only used some "right stuff" in the corners on the cover side of the gasket. Nothing on the head side. If it wasn't the valve cover I don't know how it would make its way to the top of the motor like that. The only other likely place would be the exhaust stud that goes to the oil return in the head. That stud was so tight I couldn't remove it when installing the manifold, so I assumed I used locktight on it. Good news is the turbo oil return is not leaking!

I cleaned up the oil the best I could painted the cowl and wiper arms and am now waiting till tomorrow for the black rtv to set up. I'll give it another go in the am.

The logger plug was in and thats why she wouldn't go in to timing mode. Pulled the plug and got it in today. Is it supposed to be 5* or 10* ? I'd assume its the one with the big T under it, correct? Getting a little idle surge too will try to get that ironed out tomorrow.

Here's the interior as of present:

The afr read out in the ash tray is a volt meter connected to my Lc-1. It's on the secondary out put and set up so the voltage is ~ the Lambda reading. It's a general idea of A/f ratio for $5. The Lc-1 led is in the ash tray. If i need to check the status I can open it and look. Not accurate enough to tune off of but good enough to know I'm not going to blow something up. pro sport gauge is fuel pressure and is not hooked up. I don't have a place to tap the sender with the stock fuel set up. That's the radio that came with the car. The stock wiring was cut and the radio harness was connected to the car when I got it. I restored the cars female connectors and made a suitable harness for the radio. I used an 8 pin GM connector to make the gauge pod plug and play. I really want to make a nice on dash gauge pod with carbon fiber or just fiberglass but that will have to wait for now.
 
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tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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ronkonkoma, ny
~300 miles on second rebuild. Oil is seeping from the new head gasket in the front left corner...
Pretty sure I'm done this time.
 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
Its possible it is residual from the valve cover leak I had, but I'm not that optimistic.

The block and head were impeccably clean, head was torqued to 90 foot pounds. Did not overheat. No rivets are contacting any surface.

I guess its just sh*t machine work. I just don't know. The head was smooth the block was not as. New Mls gasket. Wish I just used a graphite one. Or that holomer I was talking about.

What should oil pressure top out at?
 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
MitsuGary came by this morning to help dignose some drive train noise. Sugjested I get a welded viscus cupling to discern wether it has to do with the transfer case or something inside the trans. No better answer for me... Was kind of bummed.

But then this happens.


I went and pulled my I entire interior, shampooed and powerwashed my carpet and then dyed it. After that I cleaned the nasty sh*t form under the center console and carpet. Then I started cutting things.

With those notches, a couple holes and hours later:

No more smelly interior. I'm going to get some new carpet padding and some black interior paint and should have it buttoned up tomorrow.
 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
And.... The dash is black.

Some temp racing seats installed.

This is how I made them fit.


 
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tektic

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
800 miles
Black interior swap is complete with vr4 door cards.
Added an oil cooler fixed a couple small oil leaks.
First oil change. Oil in the pan was clean although there was a silver tinge to the oil that came out of the filter. Not the best sign but not worth pulling the engine for.

Here's the cooler
 
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