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building of a ggsx
- Thread startertektic
- Start date
tektic
Well-known member
You can check out what Jack said about the subject. I included the a link in my previous post.
I think opening up the valve cover and intake port holes will free up the pressure inside. I might still add a breather to the dead end side of each valve cover passage. That's where the most black gunk was built up upon removal of the baffle. If that's the case I will be adding 2 more 3/8" lines, a 90° elbow with barb to the caped bore hole in the right side of the Intake, On the other side another copper tube in catch can where the output hole hole is now, and a new hole and bigger filter in the top of the can going pre-turbo .
I think opening up the valve cover and intake port holes will free up the pressure inside. I might still add a breather to the dead end side of each valve cover passage. That's where the most black gunk was built up upon removal of the baffle. If that's the case I will be adding 2 more 3/8" lines, a 90° elbow with barb to the caped bore hole in the right side of the Intake, On the other side another copper tube in catch can where the output hole hole is now, and a new hole and bigger filter in the top of the can going pre-turbo .
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting tektic:
Working on PCV System upgrades:
Here's another:
Quoting mitsuturbo:
-10AN line from custom oil cap/breather to Moroso oil separator, then a -10AN vent tube with a slashcut in the intake pipe
I'm hoping this will help pull a little vacuum out of the separator can, and aid in relieving crankcase pressure. Existing PCV will stay in place, but i doubt it will do much.
BTW, the car looks like it's coming along nicely. Things are looking pretty good there.
Working on PCV System upgrades:
Here's another:
Quoting mitsuturbo:
-10AN line from custom oil cap/breather to Moroso oil separator, then a -10AN vent tube with a slashcut in the intake pipe
I'm hoping this will help pull a little vacuum out of the separator can, and aid in relieving crankcase pressure. Existing PCV will stay in place, but i doubt it will do much.
BTW, the car looks like it's coming along nicely. Things are looking pretty good there.
Last edited:
tektic
Well-known member
Thanks for the input!
Back out there today. Thought i would be welding evo 8 struts instead I lowered my eclipse.
Then went into the garage to do some port work on a stock 2g O2 Housing.
Just gasket matching
I know I can open it up more, but I don't think I need any more than this.
My harbor freight die grinder crapped out on me in the middle of porting my ebay 16g waste gate passage.
I didn't get to finish.
Has anyone had problems with the gate binding up on these housings?
Edit 10-26-13: adding a c clip behind the flapper seems sturdy enough to work in the turbo and eliminates the problem of getting stuck.
When I was moving it by hand it seemed to get stuck quite frequently. I may have a lot of porting to do on my mhi housing if this thing keeps doing this.
5/19/13 Edit:
Sunday morning time to wake the neighbors with my compressor. I started on the runners before breakfast.
How far do you guys port the 2g exhaust manifold runners to the head? If I do a gasket match like I did on my 1g manifold the flange gets real thin. like 5mm thin. Does this cause cracking or seal problems?
Back out there today. Thought i would be welding evo 8 struts instead I lowered my eclipse.
Then went into the garage to do some port work on a stock 2g O2 Housing.
Just gasket matching
I know I can open it up more, but I don't think I need any more than this.
My harbor freight die grinder crapped out on me in the middle of porting my ebay 16g waste gate passage.
I didn't get to finish.
Has anyone had problems with the gate binding up on these housings?
Edit 10-26-13: adding a c clip behind the flapper seems sturdy enough to work in the turbo and eliminates the problem of getting stuck.
When I was moving it by hand it seemed to get stuck quite frequently. I may have a lot of porting to do on my mhi housing if this thing keeps doing this.
5/19/13 Edit:
Sunday morning time to wake the neighbors with my compressor. I started on the runners before breakfast.
How far do you guys port the 2g exhaust manifold runners to the head? If I do a gasket match like I did on my 1g manifold the flange gets real thin. like 5mm thin. Does this cause cracking or seal problems?
Last edited:
rexwagon1909
Well-known member
Nice job so far with the ggsx. I'm doing a very similar build, lookin forward to see the end product.
tektic
Well-known member
Still looking for answers to all the questions in red.
It's spring time and I'm having a hell of a time getting my property in order. Planting plants cutting trees building fences sheds, repairing garages.
Ive made a little progress with this and that. Here are some pics.
I removed my fast idle air valve with a wiz wheel and some jb weld
I cleaned up the valve cover after tapping all the mount points tor the baffle and reattaching it.
This was a little tedious but pleased with the outcome. Debating on shaving the letters or not.
edit: 8/26/13
Decided on color
It's spring time and I'm having a hell of a time getting my property in order. Planting plants cutting trees building fences sheds, repairing garages.
Ive made a little progress with this and that. Here are some pics.
I removed my fast idle air valve with a wiz wheel and some jb weld
I cleaned up the valve cover after tapping all the mount points tor the baffle and reattaching it.
This was a little tedious but pleased with the outcome. Debating on shaving the letters or not.
edit: 8/26/13
Decided on color
Last edited:
EMX5636
Well-known member
Keep an eye on the screws you used to bolt the VC baffle back in place. I don't think one of those falling into the head would be a good thing. If you can weld aluminum, someone on DSMLink makes an aluminum replacement baffle that you tack weld in, might be a safer solution.
tektic
Well-known member
Red locktight was put on everything.
If one did fall out it would likely just end up in the pan. I guess it could get cought in a spring. The oil galleys in head are too small.
If one did fall out it would likely just end up in the pan. I guess it could get cought in a spring. The oil galleys in head are too small.
Last edited:
ade
Well-known member
or tach them to the baffle steel to steel, thats what ill be doing.
tektic
Well-known member
I welded my lower battery tray this week. It was made from 100% found materiel.
Link to thread with finished pics
I was tipped off that bed frames are super strong and abundant at the end of every month in Manhattan.
Damn are they strong. I melted a titanium coated bit trying to drill through it.
I ended up having to find pieces with holes in it all ready and making them bigger to fit my bolts through.
Cleaned my intake manifold after finishing mods. This last mod was recommended to me by Aade.
Tapped second post on the back of the manifold with 1/4 NPT. It will be plunged until I need it for map sensor or fpr or whatever.
Picked up a evo 8 fuel pump and started to install it but was dismayed with what I found in the trunk. It was full of water, and my jack is rusted in place!
Before:
Stay tuned for after:
Also the fuel sending unit looks like it's all one rusted piece of crap. But I was expecting that.Will try to separate it now. Not expecting good things to happen. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
that's why I'm typing and not wrenching. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Before:
on a side note I may be purchasing a 90 gsx dsm for its engine.
I can't wait for this builder any more.
7/10/13 Edit:
After:
Fresh coat of paint with new stainless nuts and washers:
Link to thread with finished pics
I was tipped off that bed frames are super strong and abundant at the end of every month in Manhattan.
Damn are they strong. I melted a titanium coated bit trying to drill through it.
I ended up having to find pieces with holes in it all ready and making them bigger to fit my bolts through.
Cleaned my intake manifold after finishing mods. This last mod was recommended to me by Aade.
Tapped second post on the back of the manifold with 1/4 NPT. It will be plunged until I need it for map sensor or fpr or whatever.
Picked up a evo 8 fuel pump and started to install it but was dismayed with what I found in the trunk. It was full of water, and my jack is rusted in place!
Before:
Stay tuned for after:
Also the fuel sending unit looks like it's all one rusted piece of crap. But I was expecting that.Will try to separate it now. Not expecting good things to happen. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
that's why I'm typing and not wrenching. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Before:
on a side note I may be purchasing a 90 gsx dsm for its engine.
I can't wait for this builder any more.
7/10/13 Edit:
After:
Fresh coat of paint with new stainless nuts and washers:
Last edited:
tektic
Well-known member
Ha! Rocked it got it out in less than 15 min and didn't brake any of the brittle bits.
Here it is next to the evo 8 pump.
7/4/13 Edit:
Happy 4th!
Painted some things today with por-15.
This fuel hanger is on the Road to recovery. I installed a new pickup screen.
I cut the stock fitting off the tube and used gates SAE 30R10 submersible hose in 5/16
between the cut end and the pump. 3 high pressure clamps were use. One at the top, one
where the metal line ends, and one on the pump. Very snug and secure.
Here it is next to the evo 8 pump.
7/4/13 Edit:
Happy 4th!
Painted some things today with por-15.
This fuel hanger is on the Road to recovery. I installed a new pickup screen.
I cut the stock fitting off the tube and used gates SAE 30R10 submersible hose in 5/16
between the cut end and the pump. 3 high pressure clamps were use. One at the top, one
where the metal line ends, and one on the pump. Very snug and secure.
Last edited:
ade
Well-known member
run a fused line from the + side of the battery all the way to the trunk and use the stock power line to throw a relay.
ill post pics of mine in a few
ill post pics of mine in a few
tektic
Well-known member
After many many Many months...
2.1L Block bored .040 over(86mm) with Manly 6mm offset pistons, 150mm Eagle H-beam rods, and 94mm eagle stroker crank.
Blueprinting and assembly has been completed. I dropped this block off march of 2012, Before I even Had a Galant.
The work on the head though is still underway...
When I Got this head everything was upgraded even oversized valves. No work was done to the actual head. The bigger valves were installed but never seated. Above Is the before the seats wer cut. below is after.
Put some por 15 on every piece of metal I need to bolt the engine in the car in anticipation.
2.1L Block bored .040 over(86mm) with Manly 6mm offset pistons, 150mm Eagle H-beam rods, and 94mm eagle stroker crank.
Blueprinting and assembly has been completed. I dropped this block off march of 2012, Before I even Had a Galant.
The work on the head though is still underway...
When I Got this head everything was upgraded even oversized valves. No work was done to the actual head. The bigger valves were installed but never seated. Above Is the before the seats wer cut. below is after.
Put some por 15 on every piece of metal I need to bolt the engine in the car in anticipation.
Last edited:
ade
Well-known member
it does exist /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
tektic
Well-known member
In due time @gmp
In the mean time:
In the mean time:
tektic
Well-known member
I'm still piecing together missing hardware...
I wish I labeled my bolts better.
Anything I can replace at the hardware store I did.
Still need a Woodruff key before I can put on timing belt.
I think I'm missing the stock fuel rail spacers too.
I wish I labeled my bolts better.
Anything I can replace at the hardware store I did.
Still need a Woodruff key before I can put on timing belt.
I think I'm missing the stock fuel rail spacers too.
Last edited:
slugsgomoo
Well-known member
what's the angled fitting in the stock PCV going to run to? I'm hoping not the stock intake manifold port, right?
tektic
Well-known member
Check valve, then stock input on intake. Both holes have been bored out double their original size.
VR_IV_MR
Well-known member
This J1A rear diff... is it a 3-bolt or 4-bolt? Is it a LSD?
Can TRE install the JDM clutch plate type diff into this rear diff?
I assume since it has 3.307 ratio I could pair it with a 2g auto trans in my vr4?
There is no info on J1A on this thread, I've never heard of it before /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
click
Do you even still have it?
Can TRE install the JDM clutch plate type diff into this rear diff?
I assume since it has 3.307 ratio I could pair it with a 2g auto trans in my vr4?
There is no info on J1A on this thread, I've never heard of it before /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
click
Do you even still have it?
